Holset VGT 5VZ-FE turbo build

Welp, now I have 2 heavily modified vehicles. (My other vehicle: twin-charged 97' outback:
http://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18807-Return-of-the-Twin-Charge-6-15-Running!)

Anyway, I can't go WOT yet without the controller working yet, but:

Giggity

(normal acceleration, vanes open, pulling my 2000 lb trailer full of sound equipment)


And the rest of the updates that it took to get Cordelia running with boost:

Intake pipe piece with fittings welded in for (left to right) Evap air hose, valve cover breather, and FPR fresh air hose thing. Technically the valve cover breather hose should be plumbed in post-MAF, but these darn engines have so little blowby that it doesn't affect the fuel trims much to have it draw un-metered air.



Rear O2 sensor flange and chunk of pipe for the start of the midpipe


Flowmaster high-flow catalytic converter welded to the CX downpipe, and the Summit racing dual chamber muffler, which I will probably replace since it's still really loud.


The 34mm Turbosmart Kompact bypass/blow off valve + ebay china flange thing


And the temporary charge pipe on the cold side. I am still waiting for the correct coupler to fit the stock MAF, so I used a 45 reduced I happened to have.



The intercooler is nice and hidden. Maybe too hidden airflow-wise.


I also finished the wiring for all the electronics, pictures to come later. I'ma goin' to bed.

 

Wow! I just read your other build! Holy crap man, I'm super impressed with your problem solving!
Hope your head is all good!
Looking forward to seeing the taco all done!

 

Jesus. You're not gonna have boost till 4k rpms..what's the point?

 

Sexy as hell! I like how its a sleeper.

One thing, with even the smallest amount of blowby. You should still plumb the PCV post MAF. Even the smallest amount of oil or whatever will destroy the sensor.

Were coincidentally discussing all this PCV stuff here. There are plenty of ports on the throttle body and manifold to draw it.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ners-and-tranny-flushes-like-bg.406953/page-3

 

Thank you sir. I'm doing much better these days.

Check the video description. It was acceleration with "normal" throttle inputs (<50%). That means spool looks slower. From some cautious testing, it looks like full boost is around 2600-2800 RPM in first gear, which represents the worst conditions the turbo will ever have to work in due to low-load. As I'm sure you know, the higher the gear, the greater the load is at the same engine speed, which means faster transients at lower engine speeds. And at any speed above 15 MPH or whatever, the auto just downshifts anyway, and compressor speed shoots through the roof instantly. I've blown some charge pipes doing the actually.

The PCV line is plumbed post-MAF: it's totally stock. The PCV valve is a one-way valve that won't let boost from the intake manifold into the crank-case, but does let it in under vacuum. The line going to the turbo's intake is the valve cover line, which does draw a little bit of air in under vacuum since the combustion chambers pull in a little bit of air from the crank-case, which affects the fuel trims.

You're still right about the MAF sensor not liking oil. I'll probably put a catch can in there until I go to an exhaust-scavenging/solenoid setup.

 

It didn't even sound like if was close to full spool at 3k.

Will be curious to see how it turns out.

 

I wanna see full boost and some nasty burn outs

 

Here's some of the controller wiring stuff:



Switch panel: I got a blank version of the carling panel made by Paranoid Fabs, then cut my own holes for stuff. The Auber gauge on the right is the transmission temp gauge with a warning buzzer to its left.

The switch on the left is for the relay that powers the controller and the turbo's actuator.



Weatherpak connectors for the actuator and the speed pickup on the turbo



Pro-tip: When terminating a section of wire loom, wrap the wires inside a couple times with tape, then pass it through the gap before wrapping the end. This is how OEM's do harnesses, and it really helps with strain relief.



"Wired Wagon" bussman fuse/relay panel getting more weatherpak connectors



I ran the turbo's harness through the ECU harness boot and into the radio area.



The "Lil Black Box" controller mounted to a regular Arduino Uno, and a 20x4 LCD display. So far I've got the system to read and display compressor speed. I'll be playing with it more, of course.

 

The only thing more amazing that this build is that you have a 2001 with 26k on it! Seriously sick truck man but yeah, we need to see some hardcore drag racing clips.

 

So how do you dial in the VTG? I know very little about them. Interesting to me.

 

Working on that, need to get the controller functional first.

The controller is installed but very far from being fully programmed, so I just manually set the vanes to fully-closed. Eventually I'll control the compressor speed according to throttle position and RPM.

 

Fully closed so that means it at its fastest spool or slowest? What are you doing for fuel mods?

 

Fastest, but I just found last night that I didn't re-assembly the turbo right, so the vanes were actually at about 50% for that video. It should be crazy fast now that the vanes don't get stuck halfway.

Probably the AEM F/IC, but I don't want to push the 260k motor to very high power levels, so probably not anything larger than stock injectors. Wideband is in the mail.

 

Oh nice. Be curious to see spool up time now. Was not I pressive in the last vid. Haha

Id at least get a bigger fuel pump and maybe supra injectors. Think if this big ass turbo spins up fast enough it'll flow so much air itll Max out the stock ones. Even 318cc would be better.

How hard with tuning the VTG be?? Does it work like a fuel map?

 

Maybe I missed it, and don't Reed gud, piktars only. What are you using to control fuel and keep from getting a cel?

 

Aem fic. It has nothing to do with a cel though. Pretty sure you can boost without getting a cel. It's just for fuel tuning purposes.

 

Yes, the AEM F/IC is pending purchase and install. Right now I just stay out of the throttle and it runs fine. Once it a while it throws a lean CEL if I build a lot of boost at part throttle.

 

I don't remember seeing it, or if I did I have forgotten. How many pounds of boost do you plan on running?

 

Here's a screenshot from my excel calculator: (lots of approximations)

Remember that boost pressure is a relative measure of power. Mass flow is what actually matters: boost pressure is a by-product of flowing lots of mass flow.

My target of ~ 300 ft-lbs and ~320 peak HP. As you can see, the compressor is pretty under-utilized, but there should be a nice bump in torque from 1500 rpm on up. Butt-dyno seems to agree with the latter statement so far.

 

For those numbers, you'll need new injectors. IIRC, they lean out at about 250 HP for the TRD S/C guys.

Curious what you did with your trans dip stick; I've yet to come up with a solution for hard mounting that.

Also, didn't see a catch can. Recommended before you start boosting or you will blow seals (or did you re-rout your PCV to pre turbo?). I removed the fresh air hose that plugs in the back of the block and put a filter on it with a check valve that allows air to flow in but not out (without the check valve you get some nasty fumes venting into the cabin). Ran the PCV to a vented catch can.

Very nice build