Home Improvement Today?

The posts are 6x6 select tight knot cedar. Stained with Flood brand cedar stain from Home Depot.

The lime wash is from Romabio in Bianco white. Still have to do the chimney to match:

 

I like it! Thanks for the answers!!

 

No problem

 

Hoping to get some advice from a carpenter/framer on an issue I've got. I had to replace the footings supporting my deck/4season room because it turns out my house is essentially built on a filled in swamp and they had all failed/sunk/crumbled over the last 25 years. Footings have been replaced and im all set to install my new posts, but with the temporary supports I have under the framing, the header rolled a little out of plumb on me. The 1st picture shows what I mean, the string line is plumb, and the bottom of my header has kicked out. Anyone dealt with this before and have a good suggestion on how to bring that back to vertical while im setting it on the new posts?

 

You aren't like me and built at the bottom of good old Lake Agassiz, are you?

Do you think a lag bolt running through the top of that header would suck it back together?

Maybe there is something there but some ties like these between the header and the joists would probably be a good idea, too.

 

Is that on the outside of the deck away from the house? How is it attached to the house?

 

I would think some good lag bolts would suck it back in too. It's hard to tell with just a close up side view. Another pic from back a bit and maybe head on might help? I'm also a pretty big fan of using an impact and long bolts or screws on framing type stuff too though.

 

I think the first pic is what is attached to the house. The second pic is showing the temp supports. At least that's what my interpretation is. Its hard to tell with these kinds of posts sometimes.

 

Yes, i agree. If its the attachment to house its got issues and needs bolted

 

When I built the surround for my patio, I used some of these:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HeadLOK-6-in-Heavy-Duty-Flat-Head-Screw-FMHLGM006-INDY/204307979

Pre-drilled as far as I could then tried to sink them with my non-impact Dewalt. Once. It was NOT happy. Driving those sons of bitches (ten of them!) by hand with a socket driver was not remotely amusing. Having flashbacks now.

I think it's this spot, just from the other side:

 

Noticed that, too.

 

If you don't have an actual impact, they are well worth the purchase. The power those things have to drive screws and lags is beyond belief.

As far as it being the header on the far side of the patio, I'd want to know if the connection to the house is still good. If that side has been pulled, I would be concerned with the other side being pulled too. Following fixing that, I would probably sister a new header and use that to tie my footings and supports into.

 

the header that is slightly seperated isnt actually the issue, I can lag that back together and draw it tight simply enough, and once i get the upper bracket for my post on it, it'll probably do that on its own. The main issue is the header rolled slightly due to the temp supports sagging in the swamp, so I want to get that trued up before I settle it on its new post. I may be entirely overthinking it and its going to go back to plumb once I lower it onto the new post, but i like to overthink my projects. haha.

 

id torque it back to plumb. Get about a 4' 2x6 and screw it to the end of by/ behind the gutter drain. Twist towards plumb. Screw in place.

 

Ahhhh... there's house up above that overhang! I thought it was a porch, the insulation should've been a clue but we have all seen some weird shit when we've opened up walls and floors. Personally I might support from the opposite side and hammer it back into plumb, of course that might be the exact opposite of what you want to do. Probably a good question for OZ. If I was feeling like doing a more precise job, I would likely still try to sister a new header on the inside, temp support on the patio, then perm support under the original header once it pulled plumb.

 

Just have to come and find it...

 

how are the bottom of your angled temporary supports being restrained from kicking out ?

 

I hate working upside down but at least the j channels are cooperating..

 

3/4” plywood base about 3’x3’, 4’ pieces of rebar driven through the plywood at an angle and 3’ 2x4 behind the plywood angled in. Blocking behind the post attached to the plywood to keep it from sliding. The bases that were created didn’t move, but the concrete guys undercut them a little when they excavated for the new pad and footings.

 

Han Solo is in there somewhere I swear it