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Not Hitachi's. They are all oiled guns. 3 drops a day.

 

Have you tried taking it apart? Disconnect air obviously

 

huh , interesting , all my Senco finish nailers are no oil

 

this post made me go double check my Metabo/Hitachi cordless framing nailer instructions lol

no oil in it

 

Yep. Senco and Bostich are oil-less. Most others are oiled.

I've used both Senco and Hitachi a lot. They are both damn fine guns that very seldom jam. I ended up settling on Hitachi because a buddy get's me really good deals on them.

About 5 years ago I switched my framing guns over to the cheaper Hitachi NR90. It's 2 lbs lighter then the classic NR83. It's also about $150 cheaper. It used the same piston and driver as the NR83. The only difference is they moved the depth set to the trigger area and made it out of plastic. I got one because my NR83 was waiting on parts and I needed a framer in the meantime. SInce then, I've sold my 83 and have 2 90's.

I don't know who you use for coil nailers but if you ever need a new one get the MAX CN565S3 Super-Sider. By far the best gun I've ever used for siding. I easily have 10 boxes of galvi 15 degree coils through it in the last 3 years. In that time it's never failed and jammed once. It jammed because I forgot to mark out a strap and shot directly into it through the siding. It bent the nail in an S pattern. It took all of 15 seconds to release that nail. I don't usually tell people what tools to get but you will not find a better coiler nailer on the market.

 

Good to know. I haven't switched over to a cordless framer yet and probably won't. I like my air. lol

 

I mostly hate coil nailers but have a Bostich one for shearwall nails that exceed the shank size my Senco Framepro can shoot plus a Senco Siding coil nailer we used for fibre cement that is a nice gun

 

I got the cordless for framing pick up and small jobs , works great for what it is but they don't replace a regular air set up , at least not yet

 

Installed some under cabinet lighting. I need to fill the area on the right with one more module....

 

What under cabinet lights did you use?

 

Lowe’s was blowing them out over the weekend so I replaced the original contractor POS halogens. I thought I could do (2) 18 inch and (1) 12 but will need one more 12..... the better half is happy so I’m happy.
Good Earth Lighting Premium Slim LED Color Changing 18-in Hardwired Light Bar
Item #879889Model #UC1138-WH1-18LF0-G

 

Thanks ill look into them

 

Not yet. I will take a good look at it in the morning. Do they sell kits to rebuild them? Not sure what I’m really looking for unless there is obvious broken parts.

 

They do. An O-ring went out on mine and I found the part and a video on line showing how to replace it. I had the same issue where I pulled the trigger and nada. Just do a search for your brand and a description of the issue. You'll find parts and videos.

 

Who the hell let you out of the Hot Wheels thread???

 

I will be back today with some pics.

 

Good job, I dig the outcome.

I'm about to start my next project of basically what you did, next month. Ripping out carpet and installing laminate over slab ~250 sqft. I do have a couple questions for ya...

Did you end up using SLC? How'd it go? I've heard getting the right ratio water/mix is tricky. Did you have any need to block the SLC from entering next rooms?

Depending on how much my slab needs leveling, I am thinking of using either Ardex FF, or if I have to use SLC.

 

I’m in the middle of installing laminate and LVP throughout the entire house and I am using SLC everywhere. For the rooms I’ve done it in so far, I couldn’t imagine not doing it. Even my lower level, on slab, needed it. The end results are amazing. Yes, it’s expensive, yes, it adds extra time, but I’m so glad to have done it. The stuff I’ve used (Custom Building Products) has been pretty good about getting the consistency the same. I measured the 5.75 (the max in the suggested range) quarts into a 2 gallon bucket and drew a line on that bucket. That way I was able to repeat the water amount every time. Yes, you need to add a small dam between every room (wherever you want a threshold or to break up the pours). If the SLC is on wood subfloor, you will need to add metal lathe. There is also a primer for it (I usually need 2-3 times more primer than the bottle says it will go i.e. if the bottle says it covers 450sq ft, it really covers about 150). Most of the laminates have an allowable variance. The stuff I’m using is only 1/8” difference over a 10’ span. The warranty on the floor won’t be covered if there is any more variance than that and I’d imagine that the joints will potentially crack with movement over time too. If you don’t have time to do the job twice, then do it right.

Room in this picture still needs quarter round around the perimeter, but you get the idea.

 

Thanks Mark!