Home Improvement Today?

Again, not familiar with your code requirements, but in general, you'll need a mast, weather head, panel, main breaker all installed and run with 3/0. You may also require one outlet and/or one lighting circuit. You will also require a signed inspection certificate before the utility company will connect. Most jurisdictions have a 'simplified' version of the NEC applicable to homeowners. This will give tell you what you need in terms of min requirements, distances, materials, and also usually provides hints and tips for the D-I-Y folk.

 

I'm going to have to take some photos and post here. This has also come to mind, where my current meter is just putting one of THESE in to have 2 seperate 200 amp services. Then I'm responsible for the wire from meter to shop. Which then I'd trench the service wire to the shop.

Or since the pull isn't too terribly far putting a single meter on the shop and letting the power company run the Overhead service drop to shop. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-...ain-Breaker-Meter-Socket-RQC200SFMG/204711594

If I was willing to bite the bullet and go 400 amp meter box and panel, does the power company charge more for their wire or do they just up the minimum service charge every month?

 

Get a quote for a new flat back yard, that’ll disappoint you...

 

haha, luckily I had the equipment to do all my own landscaping.

 

120’ long 6’ tall wall + excavation = me buying a new house with a flat yard

 

Again like everyone else, I don't know your local code. I was able to pull my 100 amp sub (to barn) off my 100 amp main (at house) appx 75' for a HELL of a lot less than $6300. My site contractor dug the trench, and I installed conduit and pulled wire myself. Also installed panel and all wiring DIY. This is in NY, so a lot more uptight than AL I'd assume. I'd guess all in I was less than 2k for service and panel. Probably less than 3k for ALL wiring. Now your 200 amp wire will be more than mine, but that does seem unreasonably high. I did mine pre-covid price spikes though.

One other note, if you open a trench to the shop, run more conduit. I have 4. 1-power, 2-low voltage (data and phone), 3-pex for water, 4-future. Conduit is cheap, compared to digging in the future to add more.

 

Looks like my next project will be replacing our deep freezer.

 

I can't agree more, if you dig a trench plan for the future. Ethernet cables are a must; way more reliable than wireless especially when dealing with steel covered buildings.

 

Just wondering, because I assume most places are the same, is that deep enough to run wire?

Is the 36" deep only for wire ran from pole to meter?

 

As far as I know, conduit only needs to be 18" to pass. Picture is misleading, mine are between 36" and 27" down, because in Buffalo, deeper is better. I don't know what pole to meter is as ours are overhead.

 

This... I have a "good" AP about 20' from the barn, yeah, no. Doesn't even touch it inside. I put a switch in, have AP in barn, wireless and hardwired poe cams. Now allows a good mesh between inside and out. Wireless has come a long way, but imo does not replace wired yet.

 

Long story short renting a house for cheap from the GFs family and doing upgrades as we go (taken off the cost of rent). We have done floating floors in a bunch of rooms and not going back to do the threshold. This is an early 1900s house so obviously nothing square/flush etc. and since it’s not our house I’m not spending time to make everything perfect.

Question is — how would you fill these gaps around the threshold? Doing a dark stain on the threshold itself. Is there a stainable caulking? Wood filler?

Cheers

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Devil-9-4-oz-Create-A-Color-Multi-Purpose-Caulk-0409/205128399

 

Built a loft in the top of my shed to store stuff. Not the best at wood work but I think it looks good. Very solid. Might come back and put wood on the bottom as well

 

How about a piece of trim, like a quarter round or baseboard?

 

On extra cold nights, my HVAC goes into emergency heat mode. How might the condenser size effect the point when switching to emergency heat occures?

Im not looking at replacing my HVAC or anything I'm just curious.

 

I like the 45 cut in the last picture.

 

More surface area of coil the more heat energy can be transferred from the air to the Freon
At some point there is not enough energy in the air for the system to be functional
Is there good airflow around the condenser and are the fins clean and straight (not bent over, like by a kids finger)
How cold is cold

 

Thank you. Took me a few tries. My saw kinda sucks, but I got it how I wanted it.

 

base board should cover that up