Home Improvement Today?

There is a trick to getting good help at a big box store. Find the retired guy in the department, never talk to anyone under 60.

 

That is so much truth

 

Tell me about it. I spent 20+ minutes each at HD and Lowes today waiting for curbside pickup. Some ceramic pots and potting soil. I guess they were waiting for the kiln to cool off before they reach in for the pots.

 

If someone knows everything they shouldn’t need any help... or at least have to ask for help from someone they believe they know more than. Right?

 

If your box store has a station where they cut keys, go there. The older gentleman there will know!

 

yea never cut you key yourself. have the worker do it for you.

 

Okay guys. Quick ?. I’m fixing to lay some of the “Shaw resilient” pop and lock flooring in my sons room. But unsure if I need a backing pad or not. Instructions have me confused. I live in a double wide so the subfloor is wooden. Any help? I’ve done Some googling and haven’t gotten a solid answer.

 

my take on what they are saying:
1) do not lay directly on a wood plank subfloor
3) crawl space should be dry and protected
4) if your subfloor is bouncy our flooring bay fail
5) id your subfloor is treated for fire or bugs/rot it needs a buffer layer

I'll assume your subfloor is one of the types listed in #4

 

Also if theres flex id put a layer of hardi board down then the new flooring. Just make sure you have enough clearance with all layers under doors

 

You can probably saw a 1/4" or a little more off the bottoms of the doors for clearance if needed.

 

I have plenty of space under the doors that’s no problem. Just unsure if I need a layer of anything under the new floor. The subfloor is 3/4” plywood right-now. Very solid.

Everything I’m seeing is the only time I need to use a padding under the floor is for either sound barrier or if the subfloor is uneven it will help hide the high and low spots. I’d like
To start on this tonight when I get off work so any help or advice or pointers would be great. I’m going to undercut the door jamb so I’ll have to pick up a oscillating tool when I get off as well.

 

I put foam barrier under mine. Its mostly for sound and i think it softens the step a bit rather than walking around on a hard surface all the time. Much like padding under carpet

 

Anyone have a Cub Cadet 760ES? I need a pic of the deck height handle. Just picked up a 760ES and it has a broken handle, trying to fab one up

 

So the handle is sandwiched between those 2 black metal plates, is there a locator pin in there? More than 1 if any?

 

Not too shabby if i say so. First time really laying them down

 

I did a 3fer today not counting normal manual labor.

1) (started last weekend so cheated a bit) Fixed a floor squeak on the second floor under the vinyl floor. I don't want to tear the floor up. I bored some micro holes in the floor, with long tubes blew some silicone lube in. A lot. Squeak gone, been seven days, blew some more in and sealed holes with matching caulk. Cannot see holes at all.

2) Other floor squeak under carpet this time, tore carpet up and could not fix with double threaded floor screws. FUKK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Pissing me off, turns out squeak is from terrible construction of a stub wall, not the floor itself. Total crap. I am not tearing the wall out! Long tube and lots of silicone goo and spray. Problem solved.

3)



3rd garage bay door quit working.......tore into it......pretty sure it's not not supposed to look like that! Replaced the whole mechanism. Works like a champ now. Blew some more lube on the works. Smooth!!!

 

What i meant is the key guys know everything about everything. Last time i was at HD, I shot the shit with the key guy for 30 minutes about an electrical problem i was having and rain gardens.

 

You’re good to go, install directly on your plywood subfloor if it’s clean and level. They recommend tacking down some luann but I would think this is unnecessary if your subfloor is in as good a shape as you say. Any LVP products I’ve worked with have underlayment built into the planks so don’t roll any foam out underneath them.
Leave a 1/4” gap all the way around for expansion and cap the gap with some quarter round or pull the baseboard and use it to cap when u reinstall.
All that scary language in the directions you posted is to make sure any water that gets between the impermeable LVP flooring and the subfloor is able to dry in a downward direction otherwise it might rot your floor