Home Improvement Today?

New blade for the 10" sliding miter saw.

 

Had one and never did like the saw for finish work. The saw blade and fence can be adjusted along with the laser light. But I found that I could never get the saw to adjust "spot-on" for finish work, so I continue to use my trusty old Makita for finish work. I just use the Kobalt for rough framing and leave the crown, base, and case to my old Makita.

 

The Freud Industrial blades are nice . Any reason you went with tgat particular blade over the sliding compound mitre blade ?

 

I didn't come across a sliding compound miter blade in my search for a new full kerf blade.

 

Dewalt is on sale lowes

 

I use the Freud Thin Kerf SCM blades in my 10" Makita saws , they work great

 

Got half the attic insulated up to R30. Did roughly 250 sqft last summer, another 250 today. Will work on the other half some other time soon. Hopefully my heat pump wont struggle as bad now. Rolled unfaced fiberglass on top of 60 year old blown in thats maybe 3" deep at most.

Also finally wired up the bath fan I installed 3 months ago...Figures the electrician would leave stuff unhooked in his own home for months on end.



On top of that, I figured out how to turn on the attic light finally. Gotta have the hallway light on first. Whoever wired that up was a genius . Oh well, Im planning on adding a dedicated attic light circuit along with some closet lights in the near future anyways.

 

Aiming to modernize a single story brady bunch style house one room at a time. Started with mdf moulding but decided to switch out to fingerjoint pine flat profile to keep more 'natural materials' MCM look even though the trim is painted.

The fingerjoint 1x3 at the orange store has pretty sharp 90 deg corners on it. Is it common to router all your trim with say a 1/4" roundover bit, to minimize damage to that sharp edge, or is that a waste of time?

 

I wouldn't use a router. Just knock of the corner gently with some 120/150 grit sandpaper prior to painting.

 

Assuming that's the window/door trim. Hit both outside edges.

 

Good advice, thanks.

 

After months of renovating my 2 bathrooms my neighbor decided he wanted to do a quick fluff 'n buff on his for his new rental tenants. He asked me to give him a hand & I felt obligated since he helped me with mine & lent me so many tools. We got both bathrooms demo'd & ran to the Depot for underlayment, laminate flooring, green board & some miscellaneous odds & ends. And then enjoyed a few beers before he left to his new house for the night.

 

is the framing material all redwood ?

 

Aged Doug Fir looks pretty red

 

I think it's the phone camera playing tricks on the tone but no, not all. The studs are fir, the shear brace is redwood I believe.

Definitely the case for a lot of the sticks we're seeing inside these 40 year old walls.

 

Paging septic experts.

Dunno if people have noticed but we are having rains of unimaginable proportions. 8"-12" followed by 3"-4" then 5"-6" day after day.

So far sorta good. But soil is super saturated.

Septic has alarmed twice. Ground water is entering via the back riser for the human access port. I can see the water entering, at a decent rate when I pop the lid.

1) Turn alarm off. Nasty noisy. Red light still on.
2) Flip pump control switch from AUTO to MANUAL. Relay switches, pump comes ON. Leave on for 30 minutes or so.
3) Effluent water level drops, red light off. Cycle power, no alarm.
4) Put pump switch back in AUTO. Button up the box.

This works, but open to input. I was thinking of janking around with timer to run longer. Not sure.

This spring or summer will dig down around this riser and attempt to somewhat seal. It's basically a large plastic tube - 24" ID. Ideas on how seal this sucker???

 

Labeled my breaker panel while planning on adding a few circuits. Glad to see no aluminum wire, I was concerned about it since the house was built in the late 60's. The guy that wired it made some questionable decisions regarding what's on each circuit, but its nothing I cant change later down the road.

 

HAH if you think thats bad you should see the molding in my kitchen/dining area....
Like 4-5 different styles meeting up in corners in the worst way.

 

It's probably not the technically correct answer but when we had heavy rains a few years ago and I was in wa and experiencing similar to you....my septic lady told me to shut shut it off till the rain had stopped for 24 hours. The county guy more or less said something similar when I unofficially asked him.

Not much you can do in "flooding" conditions.

So,eone might have other ideas but....yeah

 

Septic lady. I wish!

Ok OK. What you say DOES make sense IF the drain field is immersed. Nowhere for the effluent to go, so shut her down ASAP. In my case, I have a mound system and it's fine. Worse case the effluent blows on the surface, but that is not the case. Water is coming in from the sides of the manhole. The ground generally is like a sponge that will hold no more water. Terrible and all this water is head to Canada, making it much worse.