Home Improvement Today?

In the middle of sanding down and refinishing our dining room table. I'm a little lost on how to finish the wood though. The table was painted previously, but i've sanded the table down to bare wood. I like the look of the bare wood so i don't really want to stain it a darker color or anything.

I currently have Minwax Polycrylic



and Beeswax with Orange Oil



Do I pick one or the other, or neither? Does the Beeswax go on first, then the Polycrylic? I'm a little lost here. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Appreciate it d00d! I definitely could have done a bit better but I was really sick of dealing with the earth after a while. I would love to do a walkway from my front yard to my backyard but I'm not sure I want to be the one to do it again either, nor do I have that kind of funds. Truck upgrades are expensive.

 

for table I would sand with 300grit then wipe down with a damp rag let it it dry then sand it with 600grit. Wipe down with a dry towel. I would use the poly only, one coat let it dry then sand with 1000grit wipe off again with the dry towel, add another coat let dry.

 

I've used Helmsman clear satin on top of minwax red mahogany stain for a side gate. I buy it in aerosol cans.

$11 Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane Aerosol Spray, 11.5 ounce, Satin (Packaging May Vary)

https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-33255...locphy=9061147&hvtargid=pla-308317692602&th=1

I'd imagine the minwax clear satin is more or less the same stuff. I sanded in between coats for a smoother finish. Can't remember what grit 220 or 320 something like that.

Edit: Might have been 400 grit.

 

Sand the table down to 220 grit, remove all dust with a tack cloth, and apply the Poly. I suggest using a fairly new brush for the poly.

I've never used that particular product, but for Varathane here's what I do: apply 1st coat, let dry for 20 minutes or so (dry to touch, but still tacky), apply 2nd coat. Wait 24 hours or more. Lightly sand with 320 grit (maybe 220 if there any imperfections you want to remove) Apply coat 3. Add coat 4 right after, if you'd like.

You should have a nice, smooth finish.

If you want the finish more polished, there's more sanding and layering of finish you can do - but I don't think that is what you are asking.

I've never used beeswax, so I can't comment on that. I'm sure someone here has.

Good luck!

 

Ok thank you all for the replies. I'll take some before/after photos after doing some coats/sanding/coats.

But, no one has used that Beeswax stuff before? Just curious.

 

Never used beeswax, don't think it would last very long.

 

I've used this on interior tables, but it doesn't seal anything. I don't really care for it either. It stinks, it's greasy, and it doesn't last.

Orange Glo Wood Cleaner Spray Polish Orange Scented 16 Fluid Ounce

https://www.amazon.com/Orange-Glo-W...=&hvlocphy=9061147&hvtargid=pla-1258693408319

 

I watched some videos... looks like maybe I should apply the Beeswax first because it penetrates the wood, then use the Polycrylic over that as a sealer.

 

I don't know if the poly will stick to the wax.

I suggest trying a sample piece first.

 

I use a this on my butcher block. 1 coat per day for the first 5 days and now a maintenance coat every 8-10 weeks. That stuff contains mineral oil which never dries. Poly is a drying finish. Basically if you but poly over oil it will never dry, if you put oil over poly in will sit on top and never soak in. Someone smarter than me can chime in.

 

Just a quick heads up, the water based Polycrylic doesn't level out quite as nice as it should. So your method of application is going to have to be precise. Unfortunately oil based finishes that level nicely yellow the finish a little bit and gets darker over time. I'm pretty sure they make that Polycrylic in a spray, that would be what I'd use.

 

So an M12 fuel drill will handle a 4.5" hole saw through 3" of wood on one 4ah battery.


I wish I could keep going on this project today but it seems Im coming down with something. Hopefully not the rona but theres a good chance.

 

The DOC on that hole saw doesn't appear to be enough to go all the way through in one pass. Did you have to come up through the floor first?

 

How many times did the drill stall out on overheating? I think the M12 Fuel Hammer Drill is only rated to 1.75" hole saw IIRC.

 

I cut it in layers. 2x6 board on top of 3/4 hardwood, on top of 3/4 subfloor.

A lot haha. Just went slow with light pressure and let the tool do the work. Its the only drill Ive got so I had to make it work.

 

I have a corded Ridged for that purpose, the cordless for everything else!

 

I used my 20v dewalt for mixing mortar for the bathroom. Not ideal and wished I I’d bought a corded drill haha

 

I've got all Dewalt 20v stuff, but I prefer Milwaukee hole saws and impact bits. The Dewalt stuff works great and no complaints, but I'm really liking the Milwaukee tool line. I was looking at their 3/8 fuel ratchets online yesterday. Might need to get some red batteries and start a new tool collection.

 

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