Home Improvement Today?

I do want to learn it. But Ive also reached the point in this project where I just want it done. After drywall, trim and paint will be easy, dare I say fun to see it all come together.

 

Adjusted the mixing valve in our upstairs shower to increase the hot water limit. With recent cold snaps, showers just weren’t hot enough but was still getting plenty hot water to the sinks, so figured I’d start there before messing with the water heater. Worked like a charm and was less than 15 min job, most of which was finding the right YouTube video.

 

I admire your tenacity.

 

When I recently installed my 2 Delta valves I briefly considered lowering the max temp but then realized that was futile. If during warmer months the temp is too hot then just turn the handle until it's comfy. Then come winter you can turn that handle a bit farther and still have all the warm water you want.

Today I setup the jig for the hinge mortices on my new doors. After a few practice runs I did 1 of my bathroom doors. Went to mount it and FUCK I forgot that the new door is 1" too tall and needs to be cut down. So my hinge locations are off by about an inch. Yeah I measured the lazy way (distance from the closest edge of the old door) and it came back to bite me. After I trim the bottom of the door I'll re-router the mortice and do my best to fill it with puddy. Instead of the ground floor powder room this will now be the guest bathroom. My 4 month old son won't care much about it for a lot of years to come.

Pic below showing the new shaker slab door & the sacrificial 2x4 used to setup the jig.

 

Shit happens man. Not many guy even know how to mortice doors anymore so your already a step ahead. If those are paint grade skip the putty and get bondo wood filler. Fill then sand the whole mortice then re-mortice the correct location. That's the great thing about bondo wood filler. Once it's dry you can route it. If you do it right once it's painted you won't even be able to find your mistake.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40069621/

 

Well update on the mini split for anyone who cares. LG's instructions for their remotes absolutely blow. Since we have two ceiling units we have two remotes. We can not for the life of us get it so one remote operates one ceiling unit. No matter what we have tried programming wise its like both ceiling units try to communicate with both remotes. So for now we just have one remote for both units. Im sure its something simple we are missing but not sure what.



And in other news apparently our furnace didnt like us installing the mini split as it started making a weird sound yesterday and then around midnight stopped working. It gives an error code but its a bit beyond me so hopefully a tech can come out. Least we have the mini split for heat lol.

And least our house is decently insulated too i suppose. Its single digits outside and in the ~7 hours the furnace has been off its only dropped from ~68 to ~60 (with the mini split going in the upstairs though)

 

Are there any small dip switches in the battery compartments of the remotes? does it look like the one below?

 

Nope. Heres the manual for the remotes
https://www.acwholesalers.com/manuals/05bfaed230063859ff243840eaf357a1.pdf

We get the ceiling units programmed and they "flash" the central control so like one ceiling unit flashes two orange and two green (2-2) and the other 1 orange and 1 green (1-1) but then the remote still operates each ceiling unit


and to answer your question above...yeah looks like that one lol

 

If u can’t get the remotes to play nice or if u just want something different I bet there’s a WiFi control option on these modern units. It might involve an app and a thermostat of sorts.

 

Im sure there is other wifi options. If the remotes dont work though we will just go with a hardwired option that allows programming. Be easy enough to add them in and even with the extra $$$ for them we are still WAY ahead of having to have someone come install them (like seriously more than 50% cost savings)

 

I'm all about these heat pump systems, my house is running Mitsubishi. I'm running a ducted air handler upstairs, rooms downstairs are on a ducted horizontal unit, the living room and dining room/kitchen are on ductless units- all on a single condenser. I wanted to use the ceiling mounts where the ductless units are but didn't have the height in the ceiling according to measurements I could find online at the time. I would like to swap the ductless units for another horizontal unit down the road, that thing performs. Unfortunately Mitsubishi hadn't released their heat pump to water system in the USA, it was still in testing in New Zealand last I read of it, so I went with a hybrid Rudd. I went with Mitsubishi because I had experienced their units in Japan and the ones we buy here are manufactured in Georgia. I think we'll be seeing these adopted more across the States in the coming years due to Trane and Mitsubishi merging, Mitsubishi's units and Ingersoll Rand's network.

https://www.ecomfort.com/Mitsubishi-MXZ-5C42NAHZ2/p108197.html
https://www.ecomfort.com/Mitsubishi-SVZ-KP18NA/p96623.html
https://www.ecomfort.com/Mitsubishi-SEZ-KD09NA4R1.TH/p30720.html
https://www.ecomfort.com/Mitsubishi-MHK2/p106135.html
https://www.ecomfort.com/Mitsubishi-MSZ-FS06NA/p110928.html
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Ruud-PR...tra-Hybrid-Electric-Water-Heater-10-Year-240v

Not cheap up front cost but living very comfortable with $90-$140 electric bill every month, it is 20F this morning outside and I wouldn't know it sitting at my table had I not checked the weather app. This is a old house with no insulation downstairs, no doubt if in a new house could be running a lower btu condenser.

 

I woke up early because from noon Pacific on will be wasted. Time. (USA Soccer and AFC play off AT THE SAME TIME). I have about 1/3 of the shop moved about.

Point is: Dreaming, half sleeping last night I got an idea of how to arrange my shop AND move stuff away from an end wall while I build the covered breezeway here:

 

lol What is to be admired is my cheapness. Hate paying for something I can do myself. Drywall and mud aren't my favorite tasks. Still better than tile work, though.

 

He quoted me $450 to hang and finish it. I said go for it. Ive got a week to scrape the popcorn, wrap up electrical, and finish what little framing is left.

 

Use caution with that popcorn. Some of it is ACM & you don’t want that goin’ thru the whole house.

 

ACM?

 

Asbestos. Prevalent in 50s-70's construction.

 

Asbestos containing materials is what the insurance guys call it.

 

Ah, I have some of that.

 

Pretty much everythin’ had it if it’s older. Gotta tread carefully here. I’ve seen a lot of ceiling tiles & an even a tile floor lately that we’re so high in content that it needed to be professionally removed. These were commercial locations.