Home Improvement Today?

No, it's model # PVM2070SM1SS manufactured in April 2008. It started taking a little longer to heat a month or so ago and now it takes way too long. I wouldn't be surprised if it craps out within the next week. Home Depot appears to have Costco beat on appliance pricing, but everything is listed as no returns. Choose wisely...

 

@MGMDesertTaco we have a massive Jenn-aire. I don’t love it and it’s huge but it’s been pretty Toyota reliable esque.

 

Can't beat costco for that return policy!

 

You might look for a convection oven microwave combo if thats something that sounds interesting to you. My buddy just got one and he wont shut up about it!

 

Took a week off from carpentry. Did some painting last week. Client added a few feet to the LR on the front of the house and replaced the clapboards on one side of the house. I painted (first coat) just the new clapboards (pre-primed western red cedar), new trim and the new detail around/above the front entry door. The entire house will be painted later this year by someone else. That's too big of a job for me and frankly something I'm not really interested in doing. That front entry door seems like a nice door. I'd guess in the $1500 range. Client told me it was $5K.

I'll be doing the front porch decking (T&G Fir) and the railings at some point. Steps will be granite.

 

Doors are silly expensive. We looked at replacing ours but a decent one starts over $2k. We had it resurfaced instead.

 

Study is complete

 

the big vg fir entry door on my client build 2 jobs back was $8K CDN

 

what did you use for undercabinet lighting?

 

Quotes for replacing our 48" wide oak door (originally honey oak color) were similar, especially after stain and clear so recently finished restoring it with 3 coats of putty and stain then 3 coats of clear.

Last step before re-hanging is to find replacement interior corner brackets that hold the sides from spreading outward (currently old Simpson strong ties painted brown by previous owner as shown below).

I have spent hours googling for classy wrought iron L bracket replacements but haven't found anything that looks legit enough for this purpose yet. Do you guys have any suggestions for a supplier for such a thing? Maybe hammered raw 3/16" thick wrought iron flat L brackets or similar would look right, and so far the closest match I have found is trying to get somebody on etsy to make some custom.

Any better ideas or suppliers out there?

 

i started looking for a different idea, but these popped up in the search. these are what you're describing, but for an outdoor patio/pergola. hopefully that's enough to start down the path to find other brands/models of the same thing-- i usually do an image search for stuff like this, as the picture is what i'm trying to describe anyways.
https://www.decksdirect.com/simpson-outdoor-accents-mission-l-strap.html



i was going to suggest locating a large 12"x12" strap similar to what you already have, cut a channel into the center of the sides of the door for it to slot into, then run solid metal pins through the door wood through holes in the strap to pin the strap to the door wood. then you can finish the metal pins with whatever finish you want to make for a look with some 'decorative' pins in the corners that are actually structural.

 

Im not sure as the cabinet guy supplied them and installed them I will check...

 

About to spin this bad boy in anger for the first time

10 1/4" 40V MAX Makita single battery , track compatible circular saw , 3 7/8" depth of cut at 90 degrees , can bevel to 60 degrees

 

why are those brackets even there ? Are the mortise and tenon joints failing on the door ?

 

Yep I bet the brackets keep the joints from slipping apart, but that is just a guess. The house is from '68 but I have no idea how old this door is, guessing at least 20 yrs.

The head twisted off the first bracket screw I tried backing out, so I stopped digging into it further until some replacements are ready.

 

I have one like it

 

better pic of the lights that are installed in a groove

This is the touch switch that controls on and off along with brightness

There are the retractable power towers

 

Seeking some advice here for safety mostly.

I have a stairwell leading to my basement. I want to add a lip around the perimeter and be able to lay a temporary and removable floor to the area.

This will be a repeated thing - put the floor in, do my thing, take the floor sections out etc.

No, I do not want to use a ladder.

Here are my questions:

Should I use 2x4 or 2x6 for the perimeter lip? They will be screwed into the existing floor joists on either side and the support beam at the bottom of the stairwell.

I will be using 3/4 plywood as the floor. Should it be reinforced with 2x4 or 2x6?

With either of those choices, can I drill holes along the center line of the flooring supports to lighten them up for removal and replacement and if so, what size of holes?

Thank you in advance for any and all help!

 

Can you provide any type of sketch? I’m totally lost.