Home Improvement Today?

definitely shim the drywall.

if you really wanted to cut the tile, cutting down the center of the full-face tile is going to suck. need to do it with a wet grinder and diamond blade, which is going to end up with a tile milk shake dripping off that will need to be contained. some guys would do the cut dry, but you'll be cleaning dust out of the entire house for the next 6 months. you'll also need at least 5-6 carbide-edged oscillating tool blades for the edges the grinding wheel won't fit into, also going to risk some cabinet damage with the grinder, and the strong possibility of a non-straight line, though a bead of cauk ought to correct most of that as long as the grinder doesn't run away on you.

 

Which microwave did you pick?

 

After spending more time than I'm willing to admit on this project, it is complete.


All it took was three trips to Lowe's...and that's after the new microwave was delivered.

This is what we went with. Opted for 1/4" and that was not thick enough, so we stacked a second 1/4" panel on top of it. 3/8" would have been perfect but I didn't see any at Lowe's. It was close enough.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Whirlpool-...gerprint-Resistant-Stainless-Steel/1000293839

Got this on sale for $250.

 

Water filter was dripping for a while. Wasnt awful but started getting worse. About 2yrs use on it ordered a new "manifold" and the waterline quick release for one side was broken new in the bag luckily i could remove it from the old one. Can see the good one and bad one

 

So this was almost a week ago, but I'll share anyways...

This is the $425 Christmas pinhole leak...



After Christmas dinner was over I went down stairs and grabbed a beer and looked into the mechanical room like I always do. I could see the blocks I have the water heater on was wet. Thought well I guess I get to do a water heater tomorrow. Nope. Was the copper line for the radiators. Was a small drip so I just set a 5 gallon bucket under it. I was not paying for a service call in Christmas. I can solder copper and make those repairs, but I've never drained, filled, and purged a boiler. Next day at 7:25am called the service guy and he was here by 9am. Took about 2 hours to get everything done. The radiator cover assembly had been rubbing that pipe since 1965! Guy had no problem at all showing me the drain, fill, and purge procedure. My system is a huge PITA to get all the air out so I had to purge each zone again after a while. Seem to have gotten all the air out now. I know this will probably happen again as I looked at the other radiators and some of them are exactly the same.

I will have to replace the firebox on the boiler come spring. It's deteriorated enough where it will probably not go through another season without blowing a hole out the back. Although spending $2000 vs $10,000 for a total system replacement I'll have to bite the bullet and get it repaired.

 

Before xmaas I spent $200 for the plumbers to tell me my well was dry. I thoughjt it was the pump. Doh! They pulled it up, I cycled the power, back in the hole below the usual depth a bit and it was blowing water quite nicely.
All rain-ed up now, lots of water.

 

If you set it below the old depth and are now getting water then indeed it may be "going dry". This might get you by till you get a new one drilled.

One of my biggest fears living out in the country here...

 

The well is 16 feet blasted out with another 20 feet drilled. Fine for Nov to May, then I have a 3000 gallon tank and booster pump for rain water, well for drinking is fine through the summer. I went back to the well too soon this year. I had forgotten my rule of thumb...when there's water coming in the sump pump hole there's enough water in the well for constant use. Had me worried for a while. I thought I'd be hauling water in teh winter, nnot fun.

Water softener meter says we use about 50 gallons per day

 

What state are you in?

 

Yea that's a ridiculously high water table! That almost seems like Upstate NY.

 

My wife has been complaining about her bathroom sink running slow so I cleaned it out this morning.

You never really get used to that smell, do you?

 

Ontario. Limestone 5 feet below the dirt level.

 

Hah, been doing most all my own work for years so I'm used to it. Even opening the lid to the septic for a quick look on things doesn't even phase me.

Now, when I have to do the occasional work to the drains on the commercial hand washing sink at work. Yea, I'm gagging Or a main line clogs up and sewage is coming out of the floor drain due to people flushing paper towels. Yea no. Bathrooms get locked and I nope out of that.

 

True or false, a post on top of a wood floor cannot be load bearing?

 

^ based on the hundreds of episodes of This Old house I’ve watched; I’d say no.

Probably need proper [x?] then consider something cosmetic wrapped around it

 

I see no reason that it couldn't be but that's entirely dependent on what's underneath it holding it up.

 

shouldn't be
what is under them in the crawl space

 

in this case, it should not be load bearing, as it's a decorative post. the largest load it can carry is the rating of the lumber at the thinnest cross section. far too much material is removed from those posts in too many places to be anything but decorative.

load bearing supports are generally either square solid lumber(4x4 minimum) that's either wrapped, or concealed within a wall, or metal poles that would support an i-beam. the poles can be wrapped as well(basically a 'hot dog bun' around the pole), though concealing them within a wall is more common.