Home Improvement Today?

What did you do to attach the carpet runner.

 

Me? That was already there. I didn't touch it.

 

You quoted me, but mentioned plumbing ?

I don't have any problem with the inspection we received. The picture of the exposed copper outside of a junction box, was behind bathroom mirror and drywall. The inspector never could have gotten back there without demo'ing the bathroom, which they obviously don't do.

As for the plumbing- it sounded like that poster knew the plumbing was a mess even before they bought it.

I don't think either of us have a case worth taking to the inspectors to make a claim against their insurance.

 

So I've been needing to add a small 1/2 bath to the house ever since moving in. Finally got the gumption to do it. Started tearing out a wall to run my plumbing. Come to find out, there's no way in Hell I can run plumbing (water lines and drain) through this area without sacrificing structure.



There's plenty of room for my lines on the other side of the door (You all will see when I continue another week. Been battling a cold and sinus funk, and the drywall dust didn't help). Welp, guess I did all that for nothing...

 

A little framing never stopped plumbers from hacking away.

 

I'm already gonna get into a floor joist just a little bit for the drain, but it's already been doubled up. The two PEX water lines cleared it fine.

 

Sure you can. It's even IRC and IBC code compliant to do so. Just gotta know what your options are.

https://www.strongtie.com/miscellaneousconnectors_woodconnectors/ss_studshoe/p/ss

 

Interesting setup. My issue is the old copper drain line cannot move and is butted up against the sheetrock. I can't tie in PVC as easily there. Also the fact it isn't gonna be vented properly. Opening the wall up on the other side makes everything easier, especially the vent.

 

Just so I'm a little clearer. That photo is of an existing sink that is on the other side of the wall you opened. Is your plan to put another sink on the side that you opened? if so where's the proposed toilet location? How bad is your crawl to work in?

 

I messed up, I was looking at a thread with someone having an inspection problem with toilet plumbing that was back a bit.

 

Yea the bathroom sink is on the other side of that.

This will be the location of the new sink:



As you can see to the left is where the plumbing will come through. It's a weird spot, but much more workable.

Toilet location (Pardon the cat who has to get into everything...)



There's access via basement.

This is where the water lines and drain will come through into the basement.



And will tie into the old copper, which will be converting to PVC as where it ties into the stack is where I need to put the wye for the commode.

 

Not the easiest plumbing but certainly doable. As a bonus it's in a basement as opposed to a 8" deep crawl space. lol

Proper toilet venting would be my biggest concern. Studor vents work fine on sinks but I'd want a proper 2" vent line coming off the 3" line for the toilet.

Are any of the existing sinks properly vented?

 

There's two vents in the area actually. One behind the existing toilet, and the other by the kitchen sink. Both are gonna be in close proximity.

 

Sounds like you got all the options you need. Let us know how you decide to run everything once your feeling a little better.

 

word of advice, with a room that small and plaster/mesh. tear it all out down to the studs. much easier to use full sheets of drywall, instead of trying to fur up 5/8" drywall to the 3/4-1" waviness that plaster makes up, and then having to mud the seam. you'll likely save some on mud and patching time, but a ton on frustration. i did that in my bath remodel, in part for the frustration, but also i gained a full 1-1/2" overall dropping down to standard 1/2" drywall. i've seen some extremely experienced painters/drywallers try to conceal that transition from drywall to plaster, and it rarely looks good.

i would also consider doing a taller vanity and just tying into the plumbing around the corner that's exposed. even if that's a 'load bearing' wall, you're only cutting in to two studs at the most. i've seen far worse from far better official plumbers, that get passed by even more anal inspectors.

in many cases, removing the debris around floor joist will give you enough space to pull it clear of the existing wall, and give just enough clearance to work on it to solder on a 't', 90, and a short piece of pipe that you then can convert over to pvc using a reinforced collar. alternatively, you could also just change the entire drain, including the existing drain to pvc, and install the reinforced collar somewhere better accessible down in the basement.

personally, i take times like this to update all of the copper lines-- far too many plumbers cut the pipe with a tubing cutters and then leave a burr on the inside that makes the lines hiss every time they're used. i've re-done all of my copper lines specifically with a band saw and a reamers to get rid of that annoying hiss...

 

As far as the drywall is concerned, I'm cheating and putting 1/4" bead board on the lower 4' of the walls. It is old drywall, I think in like 2' x 3' piece? Pretty neat to see how they did it back in the 60's. Two layers with a sand finish. It's so hard it trashed the blade on my multi-tool. There was 1x4 along the walls for shelves, and with the million layers of paint they definitely show. Going to float out the top portion out smooth. I've done it before and it comes out pretty nice.

The sink area will be a vanity due to the way the stair bump-out is. It'll be a counter type with a drop in sink. This hides all the plumbing.

The existing bathroom copper drain and supply lines are still in good shape. Drain lines are slowly being transitioned from the copper to PVC when needed. Water supply lines are being converted to PEX as needed as well. I can run and solder copper just fine, but PEX is so much quicker to work with.

 

Felt pretty good this morning after some coffee, so lets head to Lowe's and spend $500



Got most of everything to rough in the sink drain and water supply. I of course picked up way more fittings than I needed. Also picked up a counter top, sink, and faucet so that was some added cost.

I can run and solder copper just fine, but this run took me 10 minutes in PEX.



Got some of the drain passed through the floor. Several combinations of fittings, but minimal cutting into the floor joist. Also had to route past a heating line.



Top roughed in





Still have to tie the water lines into the main as well as the drain line. However, the flooring company came by to measure for new linoleum in the kitchen. I'm definitely out of touch on how much flooring cost

 

I definitely would be more comfortable with lino than tile. Doing it myself

 

LVP is pretty affordable

 

Double the cost of roll linoleum. I don't do flooring so with installation it was double.