Home Improvement Today?

Hey guys I'm looking for some opinions...


I'm going to be remodeling my bathroom in a couple weeks. I've been getting stuff ready, and figuring how to tile and stuff like that.


The question is:

The Shower stall (bath tub walls) will be tiled in white 3x6 subway tile with 2 rows of blue glass subway tile as an accent, and a couple shower niches with mosaic glass tiles.

For the ceiling I'm wondering about doing a section of white subway tiles in a different pattern, and "frame" that with the blue glass subway tiles. There will be one 3" recessed light in the middle of it.

I was thinking of doing a 2'x3' area, but now I'm wondering if I should make it bigger so I just have one row of white tile around the blue glass tiles. Do you think I should do a bigger "frame" or a smaller "frame". The bigger one would be roughly 4 1/2' x 2 1/2' - almost the entire ceiling in the shower.

Sorry this is so long winded...

 

^^^ I need visuals

 

For me, and for what I've seen... I wouldn't frame it. Typically ceiling tiles are laid out in a diamond pattern. If it were laid out parallel, the course joints would never line up to the adjacent wall(s).

In my opinion, a frame or boarder on the ceiling of that size would look too 'busy'.

I used to work for a very high end builder (link below) for years, so I've seen what looks good... and what doesn't.

http://www.kenvona.com/

 

Continuing the laundry room remodel. Had to put in all new plumbing for the washing machine. (the new toilet is what's going into the unfinished side.)

 

I'll try to take some pics for reference.

I do wonder if it will look too busy. Once I post some pictures I'll be curious to see what you think.


It would be herringbone style pattern in the middle. Like the second pic in this link- http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=1315735&postcount=95

but white in the middle, and then 3x6 blue glass subway tiles for the frame around it. And it would be the ceiling above the tub, not the wall. And a 3" recessed light in the middle of it.

I guess the questions are:
1. Should I take the time to do herringbone for the ceiling when I'm doing standard 1/2 tile offset (bond) for the walls
2. If I take the time to do the ceiling herringbone, should I frame it with the blue tiles that will be used to make a stripe around the room
3. If yes to the previous questions, should the framed section be 2'x3' or larger?

Thanks. I'll post up some of my own pics when I get a chance. I'll try to find links for the time being.

Here are the blue tiles - http://m.homedepot.com/p/Jeffrey-Co...all-Tile-1pk-8-pcs-4-lb-Each-99514/202663560/

And the white - http://m.homedepot.com/p/U-S-Cerami...Wall-Tile-10-sq-ft-case-U072-36-1N/100123655/

 

If you really have your heart set on a ceiling boarder, keep the blue tiles 1 or 2 courses away from the ceiling perimeter. Use the white tiles as the perimeter, then the blue around that (stagger the joints).... then the body of the ceiling would be white in a herringbone or diamond layout.


Another tip I'll give you to save yourself from being in a complete world of shit.... DO NOT use tile mastic (bucket of creamy glue) for the application in a wet area like that. You'll need a thinset mortar (WHITE, not grey).

Using the white thinset is because your blue glass tile is translucent. Use the proper sized notch trowel for your size tile when applying tiles... ONLY the blue glass tiles must be buttered thin and fully on the back (even though the thinset is applied to the walls) to eliminate any trowel notch lines showing through the blue glass.

You can get away with cutting your ceramic tiles with a simple tiles scoring cutter, but the glass tiles must be cut by a wet saw.

 

Oh, don't use sheetrock for the walls. Use Durock or at least a moisture resistant sheetrock (green in color). Don't use regular sheetrock screws, they'll rust and possibly bleed through the ceramic bisque or even show through the glass. The fasteners for Durock is fine... even for the green moisture resistant board.

 

CBB is the way to go.

 

Use schluter

 

I forgot about Kerdi board. Good choice.

 

Ok good info. I think I'm on the same page. I bought a ridgid wet saw already. I have white thinset. Good to know about back buttering to avoid seeing trowel lines.

I'm using green board and kerdi fabric as a moisture barrier. So as far as I know drywall screws should be fine right?

I'm using schluter kerdi fabric on the shower walls and ceiling, and schluter ditra heat on the floor.

 

It doesn't always happen, but the rust takes years to bleed through the bisque and may stain the glaze.... in constantly wet areas. That's why cement board fasteners are coated to protect from that.

It's not the end of the world using drywall screws there, it's just better practice not to use drywall screws for that purpose.


You have the right/quality materials.... Post pics as you get rolling with it.

 

I'll use 1 5/8" deck mate deck screws for the shower area then just to be safe.


I'll definitely try to remember to take some pics. Right now the bathroom has red carpet ....




Btw thanks for the help!

 

Just discovered this thread. Here I thought TW couldn't get any better!
Not things I just did today but I just recently finished renovating my [now] wife's townhouse.

Basement:

Before:










After:

 

I also did the kitchen.

Before:








After:

 

Wow nice job man!

 

How did you insulate the basement walls ?

 

Good question.

I bought some 1/2" R4 solid foam that I'm going to put on my exterior wall between the furring strips when I remodel my bathroom. Not much but better than nothing, and easier than building a stud wall and losing 4" of my bathroom and having the window look weird.

 

^^^ Looks great man