Home Improvement Today?

You mean like a pre made fibreglass pan ?

 

On site, resin and fiberglass cloth.

 

My tile guy is using a schluter system with a fiberglass install below. Just curious what others are doing to waterproof shower floors.

 

Nope , never even seen that done in my 27 years as a carpenter , everybody here uses the Schluter system now , not sure what advantage a fibreglass pan would have over the dry pack and Kerdi system , is there one or maybe it's a regional thing like how they still use soldered copper pans back east

 

Thx

 

Huh interesting . Seems redundant because the Kerdi is waterproof so it's unlike the old EPDM system where the mud pack would actually accumulate moisture

Not that it's worse or anything just seems like an extra step that isn't necessary

 

I'm thinking my tile guy is a bit paranoid and not budget conscious .

 

Is he an older guy that likey started out using the old EPDM system and it's double drain ?

 

Yes.

 

Well that's probably what's going on . In the EPDM system , those drains had weep holes so that while the bulk of the water went down the drain at tile level , any water that accumulated in the dry pack could weep out into the drain at the base of the dry pack , that's because the actual waterproof barrier , the EPDM , was at the bottom , meaning all the dry pack , tile and grout could absorb moisture

The Schluter system puts the waterproofing directly under the tile at the top of the sloped tray , either their sloped foam pan or a site built sloped dry pack

As there is no weep holes at the base of the Schluter drain to allow moisture out , my question to him would be if moisture gets through the Kerdi layer down to your fibreglass layer , how does it get out ? If there is a persistant leaking of water down to the fibreglass pan , it would only be a matter of time till that pan was full and would be leaking anyway , no ?

 

I agree. That is exactly why I am questioning him. Thanks for your input. I will revisit this again next week with him.

 

Funny that you put the shower head to the left...is that because of an outside wall or just more room on the left?

 

There is a shower head and 2 body sprays on the left side of the sloped ceiling , they are controlled by a mixing valve and diverter on the inside of the wall on the left , can't see them in the pics

The mixing valve you can see on the back wall will control another shower head , a removeable hand held style that will be mounted on a fixed rail in the centre of the back wall

My wife and I like different temperature water in the shower plus the hand held is nice for cleaning the walls and glass .

 

Pulled a 12/2 NMWU cable through a DB2 conduit today to provide switched power / lights out to my woodshed for the winter . My wife was my helper and we had to pull about 110' of cable , I thought having her pull the fish tape and wire through from outside would be the easy job while I stayed in the crawl and fed the wire and made sure it didn't get pulled in too far

I think that was the longest pull in history .... at about 4' at a time .... with 10 second rests between each pull because I didn't tell her she was going to need gloves and apparently the fish wire was " cutting into her hands "

I was like " why didn't you stop and put on gloves then ? "

" you said I wouldn't need gloves "

" uh ok , thanks for your help "

WTF

 

Nyet

 

it was pretty straght forward , no bends only one elbow at the end , I was able to push the fish tape all the way through , no vacuum , mouse or string needed

 

that volt drop though...

 

Yeah , we discussed that , you think there is too much drop to power up a light ?

 

I'm not too worried about it , seeing how this cable is replacing an extension cord thats been run out there for the last 5 years , but from a technical standpoint , what is the voltage drop at 110 ' ?