Home Improvement Today?

Yes. IMO. It might bow out without it. If you wanted, you could just do a small peice at the top and bottom in the middle. Keep it from bowing out, and then those holes in the middle are still free to use.

 

It depends on what the core is composed of

 

I'd much prefer to do that if it'll handle it.
Giving up space as it is using the 1x4, but it's free and available.

Thanks.

 

I was considering a bench top of stacked 2x4s if I couldn't do the solid core door.

Overkill? If so, the good kind or the bad kind?

 

You can get 30" solid core slab doors , I did a quick check on Home Depot USA and they have some

 

Like on edge ?

Thats way overkill

You could just do a frsme on edge and screw some 3/4" plywood on top

 

Wall mount was a sacrifice of storage while being efficient with space.

Roller is a sacrifice of space while offering storage.

A more expensive option, but possibly one that is the best of both worlds, is to buy a smallish rolling tool organizer and have a wall mount for the bench top.
Something I actually considered doing earlier, but would still leave me a little low on storage for fasteners. I could mount those on a wall, though.

Rolling tool organizer was $169. Not sure the value is there for my situation but it was kind of intriguing.

 

My old bench, integrated to a storage lofty thing in my old sheet metal kit garage, was 2x6s laid flat with masonite screwed to the top. On top of 2x4 cross pieces bolted to 4x4 legs. Can thrash it and re-skin as needed, although I never needed to. Loved it. These are the only pics I have handy, but I think you can get peeks of all the key details.

 

Anyone else hate pegboard? I have it and thought i would love it but for automotive organization I much rather have a nice sized tool box. I can see it being better for woodworking though.

Those who do have pegboard, where can you get good hooks that wont fall out whenever I take a tool off? All my small hooks do that.

 

The entire garage of the house I bought was covered in pegboard. I ripped it all out less than 12hrs after signing the papers. Can't stand it.

 

One 8' 4X4, a few 2X4's, and some 3/4" plywood later:

 

Thats basically what my shop benches look like

 

Luckily mine is only a small board. The large bench makes it difficult to get to stuff really high too.



I need to get myself a really nice drawer tool chest and cabinets for can organization. Been working on so many projects that shit is becoming a disgusting clutttered mess and I hate it.

 

what if you ever want to put in a larger screen?

 

I think the obvious answer is you wouldn't be able to

 

i noticed your clamps on that tool board have you ever used one of these?


These are incredibly handy.

 

I have enough room to go slightly larger, but the current screen works. The bigger TV is in the game room.

 

Anyone have any experience with an "Alaskan saw mill" style chain saw saw mill attachment?

My g/f bought me one for my birthday to try to mill some logs from a tree we just had taken down. It's the G777 model from granberg and I have an 18" bar on my stihl ms250. I may have to cut from both sides to get all the way through the logs for some of the fatter sections.

I want to build a dining room table similar to the one posted a few pages back.

I'm concerned about the edges of the boards and how well they will fit together to make the table top. I'm thinking I'll run them through the table saw to try to get them as close to straight as I can. I don't have a planer or joiner. And to attach them together in thinking doweling jig and kreg pocket hole jig.

I also don't have any experience in freshly cut and milled lumber. I imagine I should let the boards dry out a bit before trying to use them.

 

You'll need to sticker and air dry the boards down to an appropriate moisture content , I usually use a biscuit joiner for joining boards edge to edge

To straighten and square the edges you can use a straight edge scewed to the board at either end to register against the tablesaw fence and run the board through , that will give you a straight , reasonably square edge , then remove the straight edge and run the board through to your desired width with the straightened edge against the tablesaw fence , these steps should be done after the wood has dried

For your air drying I would suggest getting a can of log and timber sealer and sealing the ends of the boards after you mill them with the chainsaw mill , a fan with no heat on low blowing in the end of the stack will also help remove moisture on the surface and cut down on the chance of surface mould