Home Improvement Today?

CAT!

 

This

 

Anyone have a prefrance to finished tile edging? Getting our kitchen backsplash tile and the only edge that doesn't butt up to a cabinet or counter is alongside our fridge. Debating if I should bullnose the edge even though I won't really be able to see it.

 

^^^ Then you better not buy the lumber at Lowes...unless you loosely define "too much". That crap is the worst.

 

yeah and make sure you leave it piled up, in the shade somewhere because if its loose and sun gets to it...it twists up just looking at it.

 

Id use the quality red fir and stain it the color you want...otherwise you wont be happy with the end result with treated. Ive seen that stuff shrink 3/4" on decking and that was after I butted it up tight and screwed it down with good deck screws.

 

Just google pergola's and design it off of that. There is no real pergola standard. Aside from that the best advice I could give you is go to a real lumber yard for your materials. That Lowes/Home Dipshit lumber sucks balls.

 

I haven't seen as many the last few days - maybe they've found new digs, since they know they are about to be evicted

My lumber yards are the same - only open the hours I'm working

I use Lowe's lumber for my pergola and it is semi twisted, but I put shade cloth between the side rails and you really don't see the twistedness of it

 

@OZ-T You're right, this is way easier on the back.

 

What in the hell are ass water misters....do we even want to know?

 

I wouldn't put a sunscreen on it, the wind will tear it to shreds before long and you'll have to deal with it again. I would space them reasonably close together and plant a real fragrant vine, like lilac, honeysuckle or something along those lines, they will cover it in no time for shade.

 

I've had my shade cloth up for 10 years now and no rips or tears in it. I did take it down 2 winters, but haven't moved it in 8 years

 

Given the spacing and span you can use 2x8 but it depends on species of wood.
Take a look at this link.

 

I was really hoping to see the ass water misters from the top...

 

Ass water mister. Isn't that just a red neck name for a bidet?

 

Sticker it and air dry it for a while out of the sun

 

We're up to the mid span skylight location which we will have to dick around with a bit before we carry on up the slope

The ceiling is looking good




Our monster pile of decking is finally getting smaller haha




We're going to work on it again tomorrow as long as the weather holds

 

If you like the one I made a few pages back it's made out of Redwood. Bought at HD. Total cost about $600. No need to paint or stain.
I made double notches to make the rafters and two sides lock in place. It will make a very strong connection. It needs to be very precise
but will last much longer.

It's 10 x 8 x 8 high. I made it in two days with no plans and by myself.

4 - 2 x 6 x 10 Redwood
15 - 4 x 6 x 8 Redwood
4 - 4 x 4 x 8 Redwood
16 - 1/2" x 8" galvanized bolts, nuts, 32 washers.
56 - 1 1/4" pocket screws

Tools:
18V Dewault cordless saw, 1/2" drill, 1/2" impact
Kreg Pocket screw kit, aluminum speed square, large 2 x 3' L square, 3' level, rubber mallet, 3/4" socket and wrench, 18" clamps,
1/2" x10" boring drill bit, sharp 1" chisel.

Cut 3" diagonals off each lower corner of the 2 x 6 x 10 boards.
Clamp all 4 together. I marked at 19 1/2" from the end for the center of the 4x4 posts 1 1/4" in from each side for the bolts.
Drill 1/2" holes at those marks then insert the bolts with washers at each end and the nuts.

Now that all are bolted together I could fit 7 rafters across the top at 16" center. A tape measure should have red marks for this.
Center the seven marks on the TOP side to mark your center then draw a line across each center and 3/4" on each side for the top notch. Having
them all bolted together makes sure all notches will be even. Set the saw to 2" depth and cross cut to almost the width of a 2 x 6.
Use a piece of scrap to get a nice fit. You can cut it too narrow but once it's too wide you can't go back. Do this for all 7 rafters.

Now unbolt them. Make center marks on the 4x4s about 7" from the top. Sandwich them between two of the 2 x 6 x 10s, get them aligned
with the tops even and use a large square to make sure they are square to the top.. clamp them together and use the previous holes to drill
thru the 4 x 4. Bolt them together. Once you have both sides done you are ready to work on the rafters. Now I used the Kreg jig to drill pocket holes
for the 7 rafters times 8 places to make 56 joints.

Like the 2 x 6 x 10s cut 3" diagonals off 7 - 2 x 6 x 8 then clamp them all together. Now you will want to notch on the BOTTOM side about 1 1/2" inches.
Depending on how wide you want it or how much overhang you want can vary. I wanted it as wide as possible so I only left 1 1/2" overhang. I made the
first mark at 2 1/4" and the second at 7 3/4" making it 5 1/2" on center. I marked 3/4" on each side like before but made the joints a little looser.

Next I propped up each side with 2 x 4 x 8 scrap to hold them level. I had to move them around a few times to get the rafter in the approximate place.
I used the persuader (rubber mallet) to pound in each end one first. I stopped and squared and leveled everything again then the rest of the rafters went
in pretty easy. Once I had them all in place I screwed in all 56 pocket screws.

Again I made sure all 4 posts were square and true. then I measured and cut 2 x 6 x 8 boards for a precise fit on each end. I clamped them in place,
drilled 1/2" holes 10" from the bottom and 10" from the top and bolted them all together as well.

I'm no Bob Villa but hopefully this is descriptive enough to let anyone build a pergola with a few good tools.