Home Improvement Today?

That must be a nice timesaver, and no seams.

 

Its expensive so I only use it on the sills but its the best way to go in my opinion

 

I'm thinking the expense won't be noticed by the owners of this place.

 

It adheres to the Typar and not the framing or did you cut the Typar back?

 

Cut back the Typar on the sill so it adheres to the framing on the flat and then onto the Typar on the face

 

1. But HOW did you fix the screws?!??!?!?! N-S, or E-W, and which is correct?

2. I need to put in a few timer/smart switches in the new place. There are so many goddamn exterior and interior lights, and many of them are 2-way, and many of the exteriors cannot necessarily been seen when switched. Alternatively, I'll install some light-sensors in the the fixtures. But I will be changing many fixtures, too. I swear to god the neighbors must have thought the place was possessed the first few nights I was here. Also could use some illuminated switch in the garage. The plate is too far from the access door, but there is a huge structural post in the way, plus many other boxes and plumbing used by the laundry on the other side of the wall. Shit, I may even try to get a utility sink in there just to make it easier.
3. Oversized plates FTMFW.
4. Fucking painters.

 

@scocar for switches, I try to orient them in line with the switch direction. If you go perpendicular, the screw slot (over a long time) tends to get gunked up with dirt grime and skin cells. Basically, it's pretty gross.
I try to go vertical on standard outlets too.
Once in a while, that doesn't work as it is either too snug or too lose so I turn the all the same horizontal.

 

Screws slots go north south

 

Re coating

 

This is how we are dealing with the stacked window situations . In a few walls there are doors or windows low on the wall that have window units above them seperated by a 10" wind girt

We are using Tyvek FlexWrap on the sills and around the rest of the window perimeter we will use Vycor Plus / Vycor Deck Protector

In the stacked conditions we are putting 9" Vycor between the units on the wind girt , we cut the release paper and left the bottom 1/2 on , sticking the Vycor to the wall about an inch under the upper window rough opening , and then wrapping the FlexWrap over the Vycor . The bottom of the Vycor will then lay over the upper flange of the wingows or door below creating a water and airtight seal

 

Update on our floor progress. Lower level is stained, main floor and upstairs being stained today. Then the seal coats go on this weekend. Color is Duraseal Early American (red oak floors). For the sealer we are using Glitsa Conversion Varnish.

 

No pics today but we did pass our slab prep , hydronic heating and rainscreen inspections

Slab pour is scheduled for Tuesday morning , 30 yards

 

Construction question for you, if you wanted to build a small 12'x12' cabin on stilts in a flood zone how deep would you set the concrete piers?

 

What is "that is dependant on the local geotechnological conditions and code?", Alex.

 

where would one find that info?

 

Yes this

 

I've had to get another electrician . Gave a guy I knew a 2nd chance. Screw me once shame on you, screw me twice shame on me.
Well shame on me. Wasted another week due to that. I got all my wursbo and am trying to get my outside wall repipe in place before foam. Uponor to you northerners

 

I like that. Probably will have to special order it. My usual lumberyards are not up on newer products typically.

 

I've been using it for sills for about 8 years now but I still need to order it ahead of time because nobody stocks it where I am