Home Improvement Today?

Ah ok, the domino is an awesome machine! Nothing out there really comparable to it. I always prefer the DF500 just based on the size, however the 700 with the seneca adapter that allows you to use all the bits is pretty sweet. Just a bit expensive unless the larger size dominos/more depth is needed.

DTS 400 is awesome as well especially with the recent redesign and upgrades. Definitely has a bit more specific application compared to the ETS/RO sanders. Let me know if you ever have any questions, I'd be glad to answer what I can or help out in any way!

 

I bought an ets 125 and ct midi hepa vac this summer for interior and exterior RRP work on rental properties. Really awesome, really high quality tool. I use it 10x more than I thought I would, and it has saved me 100x the work I used to do by hand.

No deals on any of it though.. but that seems to be the the case with everything great.

 

@OZ-T currently working out of this.

 

The 700 is more my interest. The 400 will finish of my sanding needs between the pro5 and the ro125 I've been very happy. The ts75 has been great. And until the hkc can cut a 2x4 full depth on a 45 it's just not worthwhile.

 

You did a super job on the fireplace, it looks great! BUT, you should be careful with BIG fires. That would NOT pass a code inspection where I live. Combustible materials cannot be used with in 6 inches of the firebox on the sides, and 10-12 inches above. Same deal with the hearth, not sure of the dimension. I have spent many hours researching local codes for a job we did. The initial submitted drawings were rejected for this very reason. Just a heads up, again, great work!

 

Gas logs

 

You gotta Ron Paulk that biotch

 

Yeah that's going to be a definite in the next weeks

 

I dig his new drawer system and tool cubby set up

 

Hmmm. I thought about that but isn't the drywall mantle that is still under the plywood just as combustible?


Edit: Now I'm really feeling like i f*cked this up big time. god dammit. Its a gas fireplace. I only put combustible materials 1/2" closer to the surround but they do stick out probably 1.5 inches further from the wall. I didnt think twice about it because it was drywall before. House was built in 1994, logs vent up through a chimney that is built to be wood burning. The metal surround doesnt even get hot when its on.

Edit to the edit: Upon further review, I am indeed boned. Going to replace most of the bottom with tile or stone or something. It's a gas log set, it emits practically 0 heat, but I am not f*cking with fire. Taking it apart is going to be depressing.

 

Footing boxes all ready to go with stand ups tied in , just need to complete the pads and columns under the existing floor system

Pour scheduled for Wed






Nice 24' long pretty much clear full dimension old growth Fir 6x6 that was supporting old section of floor we are going to recycle into a floor beam and some posts

 

Hey TW home improvement experts.

I'm going to be painting my house this spring and I'd like to replace these top two or three course of cedar shakes on this small dormer area that's my front entry way. I think there's a little water getting behind them right in the area where the drip edge & fascia meets the exterior wall. The fascia seems solid. There's tar paper under the breather board and shakes, so I'm not concerned about significant water damage. This is the north side and get's no sun (it's pretty dirty right now from where the water has been running down the shakes - so not all is getting behind). The shake right up against the fascia board/next to the gutter is the one that feels a little soft. I just put up that small piece of step flashing to divert water away from that area.

I had my roof done about 6 years ago so I had removed that top course so they could step flash it properly. I believe they also used ice & water shield along that as well. They simply put a thick bead of a clear/flexible caulk along the front edge of the roof shingles & drip edge and and done along the the area where the shakes & fascia meet. That 2nd course shake on the left is scribed to the shape of the profile of the roof/drip edge with about 1/4" gap that's filled with that clear caulk - which seem to be holding up nicely.

Do they make a special small one piece diverter that I could tuck behind the step flashing and under the roof shingle? If so, I afraid I'd have to have a seam where ever that lands and I'd have a very small piece of siding on the very left of that 2nd course down.

Did that make sense?

Any help/suggestions are welcome.

 

Where in CA?!?!? 3700sqft on 9.37 acre

 

When we encounter this kind of situation my roofer puts a "kickout" piece of flashing under the last step to direct any water out to the exterior of the siding

 

Right, would I just put a slit in the shake that would land in that spot and slide it down over the vertical section of the kickout?

 

Does the shingle cover the end of the last step ?

 

I can't quite tell yet, haven't been up high enough to see that detail. Probably won't know until I start removing the shakes.

 

If the shingle does not cover the last step you may be able to slip a kick out in without removing any sidewall shingles

 

I think I can make a simple bump/kick out by using a piece of step flashing....cut a 90 degree slit in the middle of one side and it should bend nicely. Overlap the cut area appropriately when bending.

 

Anything that will redirect bulk water from travelling behind the siding at that location will work