Home Improvement Today?

The last one looks like a grub hoe, the mattock has a blade on the back side unless thats called the same thing..

 

Yep

 

got a plumbing question with interior french drains...

Some day, hopefully soon, a plumber coming out to fix the sewer at my house. My house is roughly 105 +/- years old and the original cast iron sewer pipe in my basement is just about collapsed. So, I did the digging to save myself $2500 off the bill. I have a decently wide (almost 2 feet) trench cutting through most of my basement. One of the other goals this summer is to put in an interior french drain because when it rains, my basement gets quite wet. Here is my question: is there any reason i should not put the perforated pipe in the same trench as my new sewer pipe?

The trench is wide enough for both, and there are no plumbing codes here. The trench i have cut for my sewer line is now the low point in my basement so it fills up with water in heavy rains as it is. i would say a little less than half of the french drain would share the same trench, it just worked out that for a length of about 50 feet the sewer pipe is where the perforated pipe should go. It just doesn't make sense to me to finish covering up the new sewer pipe when it is done, and then dig another trench right next to it when there is enough room for both, but maybe there is a reason not to do that that i am not thinking of. Thoughts?

 

That's my intention, i was just thinking of sharing the trench where i could since it was already dug. My house has a stone foundation with no footer, so i already know i can't get too terribly close to that wall and dig an 18" deep trench, along the one side of my basement that just happens to be where my sewer pipe is run. Something like 15" or so off of the foundation wall.

 

if you arent going to use them... Patina is good...removing patina in some cases the item loses value.

 

Not really looking for monetary value. Just want a good tool to use and last a while.

 

Can use a wire wheel on bench grinder also and clean off the rust...

 

If you guys had to pick between these two miter saws which would you pick? The rigid is dual bevel with a laser, the dewalt is only single. Is the dual bevel that much more useful?

Just need somthing for trim and various homeowner renovations. Getting tired of constantly driving over to my dads to borrow his.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-...C-_-irg_coditem-1-_-100384715-_-100672239-_-N

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...RCH=REC-_-rv_homepage_rr-_-NA-_-205495709-_-N

 

depend if you are using it for crown molding. My craftsman is only single and it works for what I need, I dont do much crown molding though.

 

Only crown I have to do involves 8 corners. Mostly need for baseboards and window trim and generic use.

 

others can chime in but Id opt for one bevel, you can do both sides of crown with it. unless price is a matter...go with the cheaper.

 

If I'm seeing it correctly, they are the same price. I'd go with the Ridgid. Both the dual bevel and their customer service. I had a problem with their sliding compound. No questions asked, they sent me the replacement piece.

 

Dual bevel is nice , laser is a gimmick

 

Dual bevel

 

It looks like those are limited to a max board size of 2x6 or 4x4. Is that the largest board you plan to cut? That limitation pushed me towards a 12" sliding saw

 

They're both good for what you need, but you might want to look into 12", or even better would be sliding 12". I personally like DeWalt and have mostly DeWalt tools. The laser guide is worthless and you can do crown without the dual bevel.

 

What are you guys cutting that you are moving to 12" sliding mitre saws ?

I'm a full time builder and have had the same 2 10" Makita LS1013 sliding saws forever and have almost never run across a job where I needed a bigger saw

I have a 12" Makita chop saw but we inly use it for framing

 

I’ve hardly been in a basement. Only relatives in Virginia. We don’t have them down here in rock. But I don’t see a problem . We can run potable water and sewer as long as both are a foot apart from each other. I’d run it with the sock and plumb it to a pit for a pump.

 

Leaning towards the rigid for the dual bevel and customer service. Don't really
Need a sliding 12", mainly because price and I don't do enough work to warrant the need for it. I've been getting by with
My dads 10", if I've needed to cut large stock I usually just flip it over and finish the cut that way.

 

I cut a lot of 4x4's for my fence. I read some mixed reviews on 10" saws cutting 4x4's so I went up to a 12" saw.

I went with a sliding saw because I do some woodworking as a hobby. I wanted the extra capacity to cut boards I glue up. I agree it's definitely not needed for typical homeowner use.