Home Improvement Today?

Need some opinions.

I’m remodeling my kitchen and looking at new cabinets. I want good quality cabinets but I’m not looking to spend a ton of money either. I want to enjoy the kitchen while I have the house. I Will probably move in 4 years so I want the kitchen to also add home value.

With that said, I have found Lily Anne Cabinets ready to assemble cabinets that seem to be a good value. The cabinet boxes are all 1/2” solid Plywood (birch/poplar). I received these door samples from them and I don’t know how I feel about the “engineered wood”(MDF) doors.

 

Ikr

 

I’ve been getting the solid oak face cabinets at HD and staining them myself. Pressboard shell but oak faces

 

If you're considering RTA did you check into Ikea? They honestly have great options for a DIY kitchen install. Nice features like soft close and full extension drawers and top notch hardware. They are a budget option that don't feel budget at all. I've used them a few times when the house is in the right neighborhood (Urban, young professionals, gentrifying neighborhood, etc). They add just as much value as other low end cabinets in the right neighborhood and are much much nicer in my opinion. The higher the home value, the more people snark at Ikea cabinets, but worth the look.

I wouldn't worry about those doors unless you think you'll destroy them in a few years. Check into the hardware and see if that's smooth and sturdy. Pulling a drawer that's on a cheap roller vs a soft close ball bearing slide makes a world of difference. At the end of the day, a buyer is going to open and close your cabinets and assess their looks and sturdiness. Most Buyers don't know anything about brands.

 

I haven’t considered IKEA. I’ll have to swing by their and check them out.

Lily Anne come with soft close sliders and hinges

 

Ikea has an online tool you can use to price it out. Its a 3D simulator, you drag and drop your cabinet configuration and choose door/drawer configurations and it automatically creates a shopping list. They run a special a few times a year - i think its 10 or 15% off 2k or more.

 

Alright, I oculd use some help/advice. We installed a ceiling fan in the living room. It has the fan and lights. It is on its own, dedicated line from the breaker (ie only thing on that breaker).

My question is how I'm suppose to wire this stupid ass "fancy" switch the gf wanted. I wanted to just use two switches...one for lights, one for the fan but she wanted this fancy one.

The switch is this one. Its setup to do 3-way as well. So one of the red and one of the yellow are for the 3 way portion and get capped off.

heres the wiring diagram for it (hope its you can read it well enough)




The fan has the following wires...Green (ground), Black (hot) white (neutral) and a blue (light)

There is romex 2 wire (black, neutral and ground) coming from the breaker to the fan. Then there is a 3 wire (black, ground, and two other wires) going from the fan to the switch.

If I am understanding this correctly, all the ground would get connected. The neutral from the breaker only connects to the fan white (neutral) wire. The "hot" (black) wire from the breaker would go to the switch "black" wire. Then the blue wire on the fan gets connected to the yellow wire on the switch and controls the lights. The red wire would then get connected to the black wire on the fan and would control the fan.

Sorry for no actual pictures but I'm at work

 

Why is it? When I order roofing materials for my own house .....I have a moment of dread?

 

Just below the peak of my roof over the garage, there are these two wood or composite panel triangles instead of stucco all the way to the peak timber. Does anyone know what this architectural feature is for?

Reason I'm asking is that my garage has no exterior ventilation up high and it gets super hot in there with the afternoon/setting sun in the summer. Those panels are the only logical place to add a vent without cutting into the roof and installing one of those whirly bird exhausts.

 

So, existing wiring goes from the breaker to the fan, then to the switch instead of from the breaker to the switch, then to the fan?

 

I had something very similar in my house in Fl where I louvered the panels and put electric fans with a thermostat behind the louvers work well and dropped the attic temp 20/35 degrees on hot days. You just need to be careful not to suck conditioned air out of your house unless your attic floor insulation is excellent.

 

Looks like the perfect place for vents.....makes ya wonder why they left the stucco out if not for vents. Is there a ceiling/attic or is it open from floor to roof?

 

Not just the insulation but the air sealing needs to be on point

 

My old bungalow had huge screened vents up there on every side of the house. You can see the vertical pickets across them right under the top of the gable. 1/4 inch metal mesh, and you can add some wood trim as you desire to make it match your existing trim as you please.

 

I’ve got a couple questions for the pros... I’m remodeling a small bathroom in my house. Doing wainscoting about 4ft high along the walls.
Question 1, is normal fiberboard type wainscoting ok for a bathroom? I’m having trouble finding vinyl or poly wainscoting in the size that I want. Question 2, does the wainscoting go behind the vanity? Example: install wainscoting on the entire wall, then install vanity up against it. Or cut out part of wainscoting where the vanity will be? The wainscoting I want will be taller than the vanity, so I want it above and behind the vanity kind of like a backsplash of sorts...
thanks for the help!

 

Changed our the sink in one of our bathrooms. The wife says it goes better with the new shower curtain. Who knew....

 

The garage is functionally open from the floor to the peak of the roof with no insulation.

 

Garage is a completely separate air space from the rest of the house, so no worries about that.

 

Some insulation with a good high/low convective vent path above it might make it more comfortable in there

 

Finally assembled the DeWalt rolling stand today and the fucking thing doesn’t close.

Google to the rescue, surely I’m the dummy.. turns out no, this stand just kinda blows.
Anybody have one of these that has had this issue (its common..) and fixed it? Seems to me the cable mechanism isn’t sufficient or is too long.

Welcoming any tips, I don’t mind it at work height but also a little wary in regards to center of gravity and someone else bumping it hard or my curious 3 year old getting injured.