Home Improvement Today?

I just installed 6x24 wood look tile this weekend


Install was on a slab, not a subfloor. One thing noticed about the tile is that because it is a long manufactured tile... the tiles tend to bow in the center.

I noticed this as I was laying it and got a little concerned about how the tiles were lining up. Some corners were higher than others. I was really worried it was going to look a little shotty by the end but it didn’t. The grout went in well and there are very little imperfections that catch the eye.

16”oc joists are good support. Not sure about the double layer 3/4” subfloor though. More is not necessarily better. More can equal more prenounced unlevel portions.
I’d just see how solid and level that floor is. If its good you should be fine to lay backerboard and an uncoup membrane.

I think as long as the floor is solid and level you will not have a problem with the woodlook tile popping or cracking.

I’m a tile fan. I like the durability of it but if its going to be in a high traffic area with pets, pick grout color wisely. Go dark not light.

 

By the way good reccomendation on the Kobalt 7” tile saw. I bought just the saw (not the stand) and it worked very well for the project and it didnt break the bank at $150

 

Anyone know what this is called? I don't know what kind of terms to use to search for it so I can figure out where to buy some. 'Wood screw' ain't gonna cut it. Came off the hardware for my interior doors.

 

Sheet metal screw? Almost looks like something used in HVAC ducting.

 

Those usually come with most door hardware kits. The change in threads is meant to compensate for if you’re going to install it in a steel security door or a wood door. That way they only need to include one fastener type that fit both situations. You can replace with either a wood screw or sheet metal screw for your application.

 

I had just actually found a place that sells them and they mentioned the same thing about being for both applications

Wood screws it is! Now I can get my strike plates put back on. (whoever installed them originally had stripped about 1/4 of the phillips heads )

 

If the hole gets a little wonky a quick fix is to dip toothpicks in wood glue and shove them in the hole. Let the glue dry and trim with a box cutter. They shim the hole so you can reinsert the screws properly. A pro tip is to use bamboo toothpicks. They should be easy to find at any grocery store. The bamboo being harder gives a firmer grip on the threads.

 

I usually shape a cedar spear from a shim , bash it into the hole , cut it flush and then use a Vix bit through the hinge to re-centre the hinge screw

 

Sort of home improvement for me. Replaced the draft inducer in my furnace . The old one's bearing was going. Loud as hell, especially at first start up. Within the last week it started squealing too. So I knew it wouldn't be long for this world. I guess I didn't realize exactly how loud it was until I put the new one in. Kind of amazing the difference.


Old...


New...

 

I use golf tees for the same reason

 

Thanks! I knew about the toothpicks, but not the bamboo. Luckily the holes I think will be fine, just the screw heads were jacked in the tightening direction.

 

Made a little progress on the kitchen today.
Next week I’ll actually be home for a whole week and I expect to finish the tape/float, install bead board on ceiling, and get everything painted.

Hopefully I’ll get the cabinets installed by the end of November and have a functional kitchen by Christmas.

 

I’ve been playing with my hallway. Replaced 2 bowed studs, new electrical, new drywall, added attic stairs.






Finished installing the drywall last night but didn’t take any pictures yet.

The pink insulation was used as sound deadening when I remodeled those rooms. I’ve since discovered roxul rock wool sound deadening insulation.

 

Few more pics from the Ranch

Adding some shaker panel details around the house , this is the back of the dining room bench seat

Seat will get oak over the plywood and a 3" cushion




Started the stair railing yesterday . Newels and spindles will be trim white , hand rail will be white oak

I'm using box newels , I'm making them from MDF .




Bottom newel has shaker panels on three sides , the other 2 newels are smooth sided





There will also be a floor to ceiling wainscot that you can see laid out on the wall to the left of the stairs

 

What type of joints did you use on the MDF newels? And do you glue and pin them, or just glue?

 

Glued mitre , threw a few 26ga pins in while I was assembling them to keep them from shifting on me while I taped them up

 

Santa came very early this year:


Now I need to start working on the Easter Bunny for a table saw

 

Front porch is done. After multiple months of being put on hold I’m glad it’s complete.

Be trap is off the porch now. Stuck out like a sore thumb.
Next is to fix the shutter that’s falling off the brick and to figure out how a squirrel is in my wall in the inside stairwell.

 

I gone an done a thing....