Home Improvement Today?

I used that stuff in my bathroom and my dining room.
http://www.textureplus.com/

If you go that route, get the matching caulk. It looks good and is a good color match to the panels.

This is the stacked stone in Natural Gray

 

Right, that would be the veneer I was talking about. I haven;t looked into prices yet, but I would assume it is more expensive than stucco. I'm going to take a trip to home depot in a minute to check

I think they both look nice. I will do a veneer if it isn't retardedly expensive.

 

$65 for a 2' x 4' section. I think I'd need quite a few of those.

 

Thanks. I love my LED's. They are on a 12V transformer and a dimmer so they cost nothing to operate and I can adjust the light - bright for work and like you say low light illumination at night. If you feel like posting I'd be interested in your LED spotlights. How do you like them ? Are they on a dimmer ? Were they expensive ? Pics ? I just put in regular high hats - thought the LED bulbs were too much $$. The LED strips were cheap - around $150. Kitchen is a lot of work but worth it I think. Thanks.

 

Mine are just Par20 lights that I bought from Lowes with an LED PAR20 bulb in them. We don't have them on a dimmer.

I bought our strips from Costco. They were $30 for one set (about 8') so we bought 4. They come with four 2 foot strips that can link together (up to 10) on one circuit. They have a little remote that can change the color or run a pattern.

These are the par20 lights. The spotlights were $15 each and the bulbs were $19 from Amazon.com

Lightkiwi M9246 PAR20 Warm White Dimmable LED Spot Light Bulb, 50-watt Equivalent

http://www.amazon.com/Lightkiwi-M92...UTF8&qid=1374672432&sr=8-2&keywords=par20+led

 

Thanks for taking the time and thanks for the link. I'm going to look into the bulbs from Amazon for my high hats. Appreciate the effort. Enjoy your new kitchen.

 

turned out great!

 

...so far, i've used these from sanus accents: http://accents.sanus.com/

...i used a low profile tilt mount, SAN25BB, for my 37" AQUOS (an oldie but goodie ), ..and an articulating mount, AMF112, for my 32" LG (center computer monitor)... ...i'd go w/ the model for the next largest size though for your tv...

very happy w/ both, ...think i got them from target...

 

I've been building my boys a play house over the last couple weekends.

 

My Sunday spent making shelves in the basement. Already filled them as well.

 

Fence and more sod put in. Trying to sell my house.

 

We'll see how this ends up, but I've just put down cork in one of my bathrooms. I plan on sealing the hell out of it and calking the edges good under the baseboard. It looks great. Just got to see if it can stand up.

 

The Plan:

Widen doorway from living room into kitchen. Add pass through in same wall (shared wall) down a little ways to try and add a more "connected" feel between the two rooms.

The Question:

Is it better just to remove all the drywall and be left with just the studs and framing? Should I just remove the drywall in the doorway and the location of the pass through and patch it up when done?

When cutting drywall, do you try to make cut lines along studs so a replacement seam is on the stud?

 

Have you determined if it is a bearing wall yet ?

 

It is a bearing wall - I already have the jacks to hold up the existing header while I get the new one in place. Ran the calcs and sized 2 - 2X10s with a 1/2" sheet of plywood sandwich. Trying to widen to around 10' and I believe the standard is 1" to 1' or clearance.

 

That totally depends in the weight it is bearing

ie : how much of the floor above , roof load , point loads etc

 

Closing on this beast tomorrow afternoon - already have plans to pull out the hammers right away. The upstairs has laminate flooring (see picture). Did the final walk through at lunch and what started out as a little peaking has turned into multiple large peaks over the entire 2nd story floor. I am guessing the summer humidity is swelling the flooring; assuming the folks who installed it did not leave enough epansion gaps.

The plan is to remove the kick board and trim out a larger gap for the flooring to expand. Would it be best to run a dehumidifier for a couple days? Second, the floor planks are not that thick, would a sharp utility knife and chisel be the best/most efficient way to trim a larger gap?

I am not too fond of having to pull out an end board and trim it back. Need to cut an expansion gap around all the door frames too. The plan is to then purchase some quarter round to cover the gaps and completely do away with the oversized kick boards.

 

Use a Fein tool or knock off and a 1/4" piece of ply wood for a guide. Maybe you could rent the tool if you don't think you will have a lot of use for it. Put a piece of blue painters tape or use a marker on the blade for depth of floor. I had this problem with a floating floor where there was not enough gap on the edge. Not sure my directions are easy but the job is easy if you understand what I said.

 

you've got an excellent floor to match your awesome looking kitchen.. I am assuming the wood paneling is the next to go?

 

Sorry to blow up this thread with questions, finally closed on my house yesterday afternoon and changed the locks right away. Has not sunk in yet that I own a house, but hoping to get the majority of the required work done within a few weeks and be all moved in by September 1st.

That said, I am removing wallpaper and not having too much fun. Bought a garden chemical sprayer and DIF which certainly helps; having to apply upwards of 5 full coats of the solution to get through 4 layers of paper. The old original paint is decent in spots, but extremely flaky where the wallpaper seams were. My plan is to scape off all the flaking paint and skim coat those areas as well as all the dents with joint compound, sand smooth, fill in all the nail holes, then apply 'Gardz' or some sealant to the entire wall before applying primer.

Are there any steps I am forgetting or you would recommend adding? I'll throw up some pictures tomorrow so you all can join in the fun! Hopefully some new paint will get rid of the 70's feel.

Also, I called the seller who got in touch with the contractor who installed the laminate flooring upstairs - they will come by free of charge and add a threshold gap between all the rooms to allow the peaks to settle down. I'd rather they fix it so if anything breaks, I can yell at them and not myself.