Home Improvement Today?

I have three of these

20W (150W - 200W Equivalent) A21 LED Light Bulb, 2400 Lumens 5000K Daylight White, E26 Medium Screw Base, Not-Dimmable, UL Listed, XMprimo - 3 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0742MD574/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

They are great but the shadows suck. 8ft florescent fixtures in a white color were great at my old house. I installed them parallel to how a car would park, similar to how you have two of yours shown, it worked great. Only place I had an issue was my workbench at the front of the garage but it has its own 4 ft fixture.

Here is a link to a website where a guy broke down bulbs and fixtures, its a bit old but still relevant.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=278420

 

Where'd you buy this looks eerily like an old friends house in mequon WI.

 

Had a customer with that issue, at least you have a big vanity lol

Before:

After:

 

We are near Madison.

 

The job is complete. How the front yard looked in 2001 when I bought the place.



2004 when my dad and I did some improvements.



and how it looks today.

 

If spray foam doesn’t float your boat for whatever reason you could definitely screw some 2” extruded foamboard on there
Also try to seal airflow coming from crawl to basement. Spray foam wins big time here

I would for sure insulate your water supply lines as well as your hvac supplies

Also what is that floor in there might want to roll out a vapor barrier

Wish my crawlspace looked that clean

 

That’s pretty close to what we want to do. Nice double sink with plenty of cabinets still.

Once we started on the house we left the master bath so now it’s the last room that’s “original”.

 

If you can swing it, get it spray foamed...but I'd think rigid foam would work also. I'd also insulate the flooring and cover the hvac ducts with insulation wrap. seal around where the hoses and outlets meet the ducts etc with foil tape. Support the flooring insulation with some kind of insulation holder...

https://www.lowes.com/pd/100-Pack-I...MI9NO7mY7n3wIVuSCtBh3YeQ3lEAQYASABEgImEvD_BwE

 

The advantage of 2lb spray foam versus rigid foam sheets is the 2lb foam will encapsulate the walls and joist ends creating an air seal and vapour barrier

Is it a vented crawl or conditioned space?

If its vented then air sealing doesn't matter and rigid foam is just as good

 

We are near Evansville. We have a crawl space as well. Our exterior walls are insulated, batt between the joists and HVAC duct is wrapped. Floor is dirt so vapor barrier on the floor. I agree with OZ future improvement would be spray foam insulation.

 

Where did the water closet go?

 

Why do you think there are two sinks?





Straight across to the other corner. There was a soaked tub at one point and a tiny 3x3 shower. Did away with the huge tub and did a 4’ x 5’ steam shower in its place.

 

lol..... Well that could be an option for some!

 

This crazy house I am working on is on a hill and the bottom is completely open on the downhill side. If I use spray foam do I need to put a vapor barrier under the floor or just spray straight onto the underside of the floor? If I go with rigid foam board do I also need a vapor barrier between the foam board and the underside of the floor? Keep in mind that our big issue here is humidity 9->10 months of the year...
My goal here is to just do the work once and do it right, and also try to do it as economical as possible.

 

2lb foam becomes a vapour barrier at approx 2" of thickness

The plywood subfloor itself is also considered a vapour barrier in our code so if you did foam board and taped the seams and penetrations you would be fine

You could also do batts and just add an air barrier like Typar or Tyvek to the underside of the joists

 

Thanks

 

If he decides to go fiberglass batts and since he’s running a/c like 10 months a year maybe a true air/vapor barrier (rather than permeable house wrap) underneath the whole assembly might be prudent....I’m thinking 1” foamboard fastened to underside of floor joists with seams sealed- this would support the batts uniformly too

condensation’s gonna happen, might as well be outside/underneath the assembly rather than inside a big fiberglass wick

Spray foam FTMFW in any case lol
@floodedkiwi

 

In a heating climate (cold in winter) like here , the vapour barrier almost always goes on the warm side of the insulation . I'm no expert on the requirements in a cooling climate but my only concern with your concept would be that you may create a vapour lock if you have a vapour barrier above and below the insulation layer , but FYI , 1" XPS styrofoam is not considered a vapour barrier in our code so your approach may be the correct one

 

Thanks y'all

 

Best practice in hot humid climates like they have down there is vapor barrier on outside of wall assembly if one is used

Vapor lock would be bad, he’d for sure want to use a semi permeable floor covering (no vinyl ) so the assembly could dry to the inside

Is there a material you know of that is rigid enough to support batts consistently and is also an impermeable vapor barrier? Maybe a poly sheet on top of some plywood

Spray foam’s lookin better n better lol