Home Improvement Today?

Added a faceframe with a Tambour door kit to my cabinet. Just have to put polyurethane on the frame and then I can mount the doors.

 

Started work on a wine barrel cooler. This is what I'm going for:


Fully finished, the sell for about $800-$1200.

I bought a wine barrel off of Craigslist from a local barrel supply shop in Lemon Grove CA (~$135 with tax). I asked the guy if they would hold water. He said they're currently dry so you would have to wet it down so the wood can expand.

I mentioned that I was going to sand it. He said when you take the bands off, just do it on one side, then remount them and flip it to do the other. That way the bands will keep the barrel together.

The bands are held on with two nails on opposing sides. Since the barrel is dry, they come right off without struggle. Here, I've sanded one side.


Flipped and sanded the other side.


Since I'm going to cut a door in the side, I need to reinforce the bands to hold the barrel together. I drilled and screwed into each board for each band. In total it will be about 200 screws. I plan on leaving the hole, that's on the side, on the bottom of the cooler for draining. We may put a spigot as well, like the one in the first picture.



Even though he said it would hold water, I'm contemplating coating it with something. Perhaps bed liner? Does anyone know if it will stick to wood?

Also, what's a good coating to put on the outside once it's stained? It'll be outside so I want something that can stand up to water and UV light. I've read polyurethane will break down in full sun.

 

Yes it does !

 

Alright, sorry it has been a while coming but I wanted to post pictures of what I ended up doing with my floor. I also wanted to thank Rardigo for his advice as it was helpful.

I ended up going with an Original Color Chips Metallix brand epoxy floor with a polyurethane top coat. It cost more than I had planned on spending on the floor but I am happy with the floor itself. I don't think that this is the place to go into a detailed description of the procedure, but I would be glad to share what I learned by doing this floor with anyone who is wanting the information. Feel free to PM me.

Also something I learned just recently is that apparently the polyurethane clear coat does not char easily from wood coals. I think the pictures are self explanatory, and no making fun of the retro furniture. My friends say it is a 70's porno style room. I dunno, I like it though. That sofa is a 3rd generation sofa (grandparents',folks', and mine) and was my bed many times in college. Obviously trim still needs to go up, that will likely be a winter project. Also just for the fourth picture is of how the old stove was hooked up to the chimney before. Needles to say, I have since changed the stove to chimney hookup.

 

Powerwashed it and finished cleaning up the concrete. Cut down a few trees and now to clean up.

 

Looks good. Also the stove was hooked up correctly well until they decided to finish the walls at that point a thimble and double wall insulated is needed to go through the wall. How much space do you have between the stove and the wall?

 

Great frustration relief last night. Remodeling our upstairs bathroom and the old bath tub had to go. Solid cast iron and clocked in just under 400 lbs. No way to get that down the stairs safely so we went to work with the sledge hammer and now I got tons of little pieces to scrap.

Have to run new copper lines to the basement though; previous owner piped the water supply lines to the shower around the side of the tub and tapped into the vanity lines on the other side of the room. If we had a leak back there, there would of been no way to access the lines without removing the whole tub.

Question: we are going to tile the floor and the old subfloor was 1/2" plywood with much water stains and random holes cut out. The plan is to replace it all with 3/4" T&G plywood with 1/4" haribacker over it to get us the full inch to match the hallway elevation. Do I thinset the hardibacker to the plywood subfloor or will screws suffice?

 

Read these instillation instructions then read them again. but you will need modified thinset for the hardibacker to plywood. Depending on the tile you will probably be using unmodidifed thinset for the tile. You could also make life a little easier and use ditra underlayment.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCsQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jameshardie.com%2Fhomeowner%2Fpdf%2Fbacker-install-us.pdf&ei=hjpgUuPeI-7-4APnx4G4Bw&usg=AFQjCNH3QYVFfSEt7mnMGqKQYxKkW8HPOA&bvm=bv.54176721,d.dmg

 

Schluter Ditra FTW

 

I suppose it was although the misalignment of the pipe and chimney seems lazy. Unless....could they have done it for draft reasons? Anyways I had looked into a thimble, but my situation is unique in that the wall is not framed in that there is just a sheet of paneling with some Styrofoam insulation against the foundation. In addition I do not have access to the bottom of the chimney as it is buried. So I ran the inside section of a double wall pipe inside of the masonry "T" and refractory cemented around the pipe both inside and out. Then I cut the outside section of double wall to fit flush against the outside of the chimney, refractory cemented, then filled the hole in the foundation with regular cement. Lastly when I made the pipe surround I added a section of metal to surround the pipe and butt up against the foundation, then sealed with high-temp silicone. So I have 2 1/2" clearance to the paneling from, in essence, a section of triple walled pipe with 2" listed.

There is 18" of clearance between the stove and wall. The stove manual lists a 13" clearance. The horizontal stove pipe has 9" of clearance to the ceiling and is listed at 8".

 

Hey that's pretty darn cool, I can see something like this in my back yard under the patio cover.

 

Awesome stuff. It's pricey but so easy to work with. Measure carefully though. I have an extra 323 sq feet of it left over. Doh!

 

The barrels are not to badly priced. In San Diego, I got a barrel for about $130. If you're close to a winery, they might have them cheaper.

 

You want to sell some?? My bathroom is 100 sq.ft. but if the price is right, I will take it off your hands.

 

It looks like the barrel in the picture you're emulating has a plastic, probably insulated, bin that retains the ice and drinks. Have you thought about putting one of those in there instead and just line the rest of the barrel with styrofoam? I know that's not as cool as your idea using the actual barrel, but may work much better for keeping the ice frozen.

 

Sounds good to me. You did your homework and looks like you got it right. A lot of times people put in stoves the lazy aka "cheap" way. Sounds like you got it right or at least as close to text book as you could with what you where given. The double wall into the chimney should be all you need.

 

Wow, just stumbled across this thread. Cant believe I haven't seen it before.
Here's my slow cheap kitchen remodel.
We just moved in over the summer and decided that1978 had to go. With very little money, alot of creative reuse of most of the old cabinets, this remodel has slowed down to a crawl. So much finish work left to do, but thats the most satisfying part.
We took down 2 walls, kitchen/dining rm and a hallway along with a half wall separating the kitchen and family rm.
Now were open from front to back.

 

I hope so. I wanted to do it well enough I wouldn't be lying in bed with a roaring fire going and be thinking, now.....did I build that good enough to prevent a house fire? So far I have been sleeping well.

 

What exactly am I looking at in picture # 4. ?