Home Improvement Today?

Use a plywood shim

 

Do you have any insight into whether it's up to code or not?

 

Can't say for sure for your jurisdiction

If you're worried about it pull the cripple and replace, shouldn't take too long , just make sure header is temporarily supported

 

Sheesh, saved your bacon.

 

What?

 

"SOLD" cant believe it was that easy, first person that looked at it.

 

I first use degreaser and light sanding. Then spray Sherwin Williams extreme bond primer, then spray Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel. I use a Graco sprayer with a fine finish tip.

 

I have a decent question on a part of my current renovation with my house.

Simplified:
How many and what size lag screws should I use to take care of the lateral load of my ceiling joist connection to a laminated beam I will be recessing into my ceiling.

A little background information:
I have a hip roof, so no roof trusses.
The 2x6 ceiling joists are what are keeping the walls of the house from splaying out.
The beam will be a 3 ply 2x10x11ft
I have the temporary walls installed for when I remove the load bearing wall.
I have installed 2x6 strongbacks in the attic already as temp lateral support that will remain once all is done
I was planning on using 2x6 joist hangers to take care of the vertical load, and xxx number on lag screws to hold the joists to the beam

Should I use 1/4"( 5/16", 3/8" ) x 8" lag screws
With 2 per joist, 3 per joist?

 

Joist hangers are all you need, Screwing into the end grain of wood is not a strong connection. Just make sure that you put in the diagonal nails that go through the hanger/joist and into the beam.

 

I'm thinking if there's any real tension there he'll need something more substantial, though I'd agree the joist hangers will do a lot more than screwing into the endgrain.

@Hawco636 what's the purpose of the laminated beam/what's the span perpendicular to it?

 

I would likely toe nail all the ceiling joists to the flush beam then add the hangers . Will the the flush beam be supporting the roof ridge ?

Some kind of strap hardware connecting the ceiling joists across the flush beam would likely be a good idea to combat the horizontal thrust on the walls from the roof if the ceiling joists are still working to hold the rafter tails together

 

Just nail off the hangers per Simpsons specs. Depending on whether go with LUS26 or HUS26. The HU series is a much stronger hanger. You can find all the load tables on Simpsons site. Honestly, for your application LUS should be more then enough.

 

The laminated beam is going in to take the place of the wall I will be removing. That wall was taking the weight of the ceiling joists, drywall, and insulation from the attic.

The way the Hip roof was constructed, there were no vertical studs from the roof ridge to the ceiling joists. The weight of the roof was brought down to the outside walls.

The width of the house is 25ft, so ~12'-6" on either side of this beam to be installed.
I guess I have been overthinking the horizontal tension from the exterior walls. And I mis-spoke earlier; I installed collar ties in the roof, not strongbacks

 

So the hangers will resist the pullout forces placed on the ceiling joists by the roof ?

Not talking vertical loading

 

Yes. The hanger is a double shear design. Meaning it not only get face nailed to the beam it also get's toe nailed through the joist to the beam. Plus @Hawco636 has added collar ties that should have been there from the beginning. It'll be just fine. Of course, he could pay a structural engineer a few grand to design it but that system is what the SE will design. lol

 

Huh interesting . We would usually add strap style hardware or similar across a connection like that depending on roof loading but that may be a function of our seismic considerations

 

Repairing the toilet pipe in the bathroom, we removed the original toilet flange due to cracking/age and found that the pipe was too low and also in too poor condition to use the twist and set flange as planned.
We got the concrete out, hole cleaned, old pipe cut, and coupling and new pipe glued in.
Tomorrow if we have time we’ll wrap the pipe and pour in the mud, then it’s on to prep for paint, install tile, install new baseboards, and then finish the toilet.

 

Got the last of my material moved at my shop site .

Stashed some 10' 6x6 cedar posts under the rack I built to hold the rest of my 1x and 5/4x cedar boards




Container is now pretty much full with all the material I really want to keep dry including the full 2" fir planks I showed earlier plus a bunch of 1 1/2" and full 2" clear cedar boards plus some odds & ends of shorts





Now I can take down the temporary shelter and we can start our excavations for the new building

 

Does cleaning the garage count haha

Moving at end of month so it was time to pack and dispose of the various chemicals I haven’t used in a few years. One of those “I need it one time and have to get the whole thing” kind of deals

 

I build in Cali and I can assure you are seismic loading is the highest in the nation,. I also build in Mammoth Lakes which has a huge snow loading to take into consideration as well. As you know, a lot of this stuff is done by the SE. If they can get the values they need without horizontal strapping then there is no need. If they can't get the values then they'll go to great lengths to add MST52's or CS16 everywhere. We always strap vertical post to post and vertical post to beam connections unless they are bucketed. Floor or ceiling to beam that are hanger'd are almost never strapped here.

Since it's an attic you could easily get additional "strapping" by just running some 1/2" OSB across the recessed beam. That would give you 24" of sheer nailing onto each 2x6. It would also give you the added benefit of having more usable attic space. It's a cheap thing to do and it certainly won't hurt.