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Home Improvement Today?

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by Hotdog, Jul 28, 2008.

  1. Dec 4, 2013 at 5:51 AM
    #1861
    guitarjamman

    guitarjamman Well-Known Member

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    Need some input here. Remodeling second floor bathroom of newly purchased house. Ripped the POS down to studs, replaced the entire subfloor with 3/4" T&G, placed 1/4" hardibacker for tiles, leveled with Henry 549 self leveling cement, and now putting up the new ceiling and walls. Everything came together fine but now I am questioning what to do for around the tub. We are going to tile so I have 1/2" hardibacker and a 4-mil plastic vapor barrier to staple to the studs.

    I am only planning to tile the top of the window (most likely just under it to match the downstairs). Does the hardibacker go all the way to the ceiling, or do I stop it where I am planning on ending the tile then use the mold resistant drywall to finish it off? The only reason I ask is because I could see issues with getting a smooth wall if I don't tile all the way to the ceiling, but use the hardibacker all over. I would have to skim coat it which I am not the best at and really don't want to see any areas that are not flush/level.

    Also, does the hardibacker sit flush on the tub flange, or do I leave a 1/4" gap and let the thinset fill it in, followed with a bead of caulk to keep it from going anywhere?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Dec 4, 2013 at 7:10 AM
    #1862
    evanmb31

    evanmb31 Well-Known Member

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    The hardiback should lap over the flange. Then you have an issue with a bend in the hardibacker. Some guys just leave it, which kinda fucks you for tile, some will fur out framing flush with the lip so the hardibacker can lap over the flange and sit nice and flat
     
  3. Dec 4, 2013 at 7:27 AM
    #1863
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    We never go over the flange
     
  4. Dec 4, 2013 at 8:20 AM
    #1864
    teneighty

    teneighty I'd rather be skiing...

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    You could use the kerdi paper as well. That's what I'm using. I have almost the same exact bathroom/tub layout and doing all tile as well. I put drywall on and I'm going over it with Kerdi.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Dec 4, 2013 at 8:23 AM
    #1865
    Pchop

    Pchop Beavis Killer

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    What we do is use dense shield tile backer in the apartment buildings I build.
    Go to this PDF:
    DensShield® Tile Backer Installation Instructions

    its will show you how to install it.

    Basically you run this all the way up once your plumbing is done, set your tub up to it and run your tile to the flange. You can then forget about the hardi board which is a pain in the ass to work with.
     
  6. Dec 4, 2013 at 8:28 AM
    #1866
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    What ever substrate you use , it's isn't supposed to go over the flange

    And use the Schluter System over the substrate and never worry about it again
     
  7. Dec 4, 2013 at 8:59 AM
    #1867
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    My latest project ;

    Curved , sloping retaining wall , everything to the left is garden bed , everything to the right is driveway

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Dec 4, 2013 at 9:43 AM
    #1868
    Pchop

    Pchop Beavis Killer

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    Couple from my job, 182 unit apartment building in San Francisco. Pouring columns in these. Slab will be poured out in 2 pours. Just started finish grading for it today, should be poured in 2 weeks. 49,000 sqf.

    Can't let OZ steal the show :D
    yha2a9es_66e7f557b9bb25efa6707946e0286386e94aa60f.jpg
    yma2a3es_9642f0ac34f720f3beca20fea59a24066eb4076d.jpg
     
  9. Dec 4, 2013 at 10:07 AM
    #1869
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    SECOND COLUMN FROM LEFT THIRD ROW LOOKS CROOKED AND ABOUT TO FALL OVER
     
  10. Dec 4, 2013 at 10:11 AM
    #1870
    Pchop

    Pchop Beavis Killer

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    Not plumbed at that point...lmao...de ja vus
     
  11. Dec 4, 2013 at 10:12 AM
    #1871
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    HOW OSHA DOESNT SHUT U DOWN IS BEYOND ME
     
  12. Dec 4, 2013 at 10:14 AM
    #1872
    Pchop

    Pchop Beavis Killer

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    What? Dude, I run a super safe site, they actually came out to investigate a true accident and deemed it an accident. They looked around the rest of the job on 2 separate visits and could not find anything.
     
  13. Dec 4, 2013 at 10:17 AM
    #1873
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Jesus Christ. , it's a joke , you really didn't get it the last time either did you

    Obviously you haven't had BGR comment on your work pics in Live
     
  14. Dec 4, 2013 at 10:23 AM
    #1874
    xJuice

    xJuice My spoon is too Big!

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  15. Dec 4, 2013 at 11:02 AM
    #1875
    Pchop

    Pchop Beavis Killer

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    Nope, now I know....and knowing is half the battle (GI Joe)
     
  16. Dec 6, 2013 at 8:26 AM
    #1876
    wileyC

    wileyC Well-Known Member

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    the bottom of the hardibacker should rest atop the flange around the tub, do not overlap the flange... when you install the tile, you have the tile overlap the flange (it can overlap since the hardibacker should stand "proud" of the flange), but leave a 1/8" gap between the tile and tub deck surface (this is where those plastic wedges/spacers help)... then after the tile is installed/grouted/sealed, just run a bead of caulk around the perimeter of the tub where you left that 1/8" gap ;)
     
  17. Dec 6, 2013 at 8:39 AM
    #1877
    Pchop

    Pchop Beavis Killer

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    You should run your substrate all the way to the floor IMO, and hold slide the tub to it.
     
  18. Dec 6, 2013 at 8:55 AM
    #1878
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Wut
     
  19. Dec 6, 2013 at 9:03 AM
    #1879
    Pchop

    Pchop Beavis Killer

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    Sounded like he was saying hold the hardi board at the flange elevation. Which seems to me that he would not have substrate below the flange of the tub:not sure:
     
  20. Dec 6, 2013 at 9:04 AM
    #1880
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Which is exactly how it should be done , a flanged tub installs against the framing , the tile substrate comes down to the top of the flange
     

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