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Hondo Garage's New Thing

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by wileydavis, Oct 23, 2017.

  1. Oct 21, 2018 at 9:09 AM
    #5501
    satchmot

    satchmot Member

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    Apologies if this is not a well thought out question but if the issue with condensation is amplied by single wall, couldn’t it be mitigated by a simple rain fly over the top. You could even have it anchor the the extrusion or side panels in cabana mode to provide a surface where the condensation would build up vs. inside the tent. Again, not an engineer/designer just thinking out loud. Humidity is a killer.
     
    YOTA 4X4 likes this.
  2. Oct 21, 2018 at 10:24 AM
    #5502
    OR4x4

    OR4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Portland, OR
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    I'm in for a GFC, but I have a DCLB. Which cab racks can I get that will line up nicely with how much the GFC overhangs on the cab?
     
  3. Oct 21, 2018 at 11:00 AM
    #5503
    satchmot

    satchmot Member

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    Thanks for the welcome! Yeah, I’m all for KISS, which is why I think you’d just have a rectangular/rhomboid piece of fabric that you’d anchor to the extrusion/side panel, toss it over the top, and repeat on the other side. Let the tent struts open it when popping the tent open. You could then ball it up and put it in a stuff sack and dry it out when your adventures are over. Not sure how thick the fabric would have to be.

    But then again, as you mentioned the waffle weave cloth is probably the simplest. In the colder climates, the GFC insulation panels may provide enough of of solution. Similar to what outside van has done with their builds but hopefully for a lot cheaper.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2018
    ace7196[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Oct 21, 2018 at 11:05 AM
    #5504
    rajacat9

    rajacat9 Well-Known Member

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    I presume there's a small gap between the tubing and the doors. Take a piece of Formica or some other stiff but thin material and cut to fit the door making allowance for the latches. Transfer the outline of the tubing layout onto it. Get some 1/2" - 1" closed cell insulation. Cut and fit the insulation, following the layout, so that it will allow the door to close . Take the Formica/insulation fabrication and glue it to the door. For cosmetics glue Formica or some other material to the exposed insulation. Use aluminum flashing tape to seal the edges of the insulation.
    Closed cell insulation is very efficient compared to most other insulating products such as Reflectix. In some ways, I'm just building a composite panel.:)
    This should help with condensation as well as providing heat and cold insulation.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2018
    butters_ likes this.
  5. Oct 21, 2018 at 7:32 PM
    #5505
    OR4x4

    OR4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Anyone know of a decked-like drawer system that I can install on one side of my bed? I want to leave the other side open because I want to install a sliding track for my mountain bike to fork mount to and slide in and out of the bed completely. Maybe having a system that is that heavy would be a bad idea to have on one side with only a light mountain bike on the other side?
     
  6. Oct 21, 2018 at 8:43 PM
    #5506
    fredgoodsell

    fredgoodsell Well-Known Member

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    By far cheapest to build it yourself.
    But I think goosegear has single-wide drawer setups?
     
  7. Oct 21, 2018 at 9:56 PM
    #5507
    OR4x4

    OR4x4 Well-Known Member

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    How about this one... Windows or no windows?
     
  8. Oct 21, 2018 at 10:04 PM
    #5508
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    Damn not 3/4"?
     
  9. Oct 21, 2018 at 10:05 PM
    #5509
    PNW Explorer

    PNW Explorer Well-Known Member

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    I think the majority are going no windows. I was originally planning on both, but after reading a bunch of opinions, I settled on front window only. I had no use for a back window, it essentially just let people see into the camper. If I wanted more light I could just open up a side. I kept the front window because my dogs will be riding in back and I wanted to keep an eye on them while we were on the road.
     
    tonered likes this.
  10. Oct 21, 2018 at 10:12 PM
    #5510
    smelly621

    smelly621 Well-Known Member

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    It's DLX son!
    Two part question: how has your rear tent flap vestibule set-up been performing in terms of ventilation and in general? Could you re-post your final design you arrived at?
     
  11. Oct 21, 2018 at 10:15 PM
    #5511
    hudhawk

    hudhawk #texasforever

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    Rust, lots of rust
    Drill it out?
     
    ace7196 likes this.
  12. Oct 21, 2018 at 10:19 PM
    #5512
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    I've done this before. But depending on where the center of the hole is that might not work.
     
    ace7196 likes this.
  13. Oct 21, 2018 at 10:30 PM
    #5513
    socalexpeditions

    socalexpeditions IG: @socalexpeditions

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    Looks like they are making solid progress. If they keep it at 10 a week, they'll be cranking them out and catching up on the leaderboard list...Wonder how long they'll keep this up. If it stays at this rate, my camper will be done in 4 months when the rough build date I received was in May.

    Cool to see they are doing well and got foam!
     
    OR4x4 likes this.
  14. Oct 21, 2018 at 11:02 PM
    #5514
    wileydavis

    wileydavis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    And that’s only two months worth of foam in that photo :)
     
  15. Oct 21, 2018 at 11:48 PM
    #5515
    firefox90

    firefox90 Member

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    @wileydavis I'm not running any rack or crossbar at the moment. I was hoping it was unnecessary for an 8ft foam surfboard, but now you've got me concerned. The mounts and Yakima bar setup would be about 4x the price of my noobie board.

    I may need to go some more brainstorming.
     
  16. Oct 22, 2018 at 6:31 AM
    #5516
    wileydavis

    wileydavis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It all depends on conditions, of course, but having a sandy surfboard in contact with a composite roof is going to eventually cause wear. You could throw some foam pipe insulation in between and probably get away with it for a while. If you're driving on smooth roads for short distances it would probably be fine. But if you're driving on bumpy roads or long distances on the freeway I'd be worried.
     
    tonered and firefox90[QUOTED] like this.
  17. Oct 22, 2018 at 7:11 AM
    #5517
    socalexpeditions

    socalexpeditions IG: @socalexpeditions

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    If you’re just starting out, you’ll upgrade from that Costco foamie in a bit. Here’s how I shove my board in my truck and it’s 9’4”.

    Cheap and easy. If not, just spend the money and buy the racks. $150 for the clamps and ~$50 for the bars if you find a used set on eBay. You just spent ~$6,000 on a camper, $200 more wont kill ya haha.

    6BDF36C6-D4A3-428D-AFAB-F7883A69681F.jpg
     
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  18. Oct 22, 2018 at 7:26 AM
    #5518
    danneskjold

    danneskjold Well-Known Member

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    Each of those corner connectors costs about $20 from 80/20...so that’s $160 in corner connectors alone. They use Accuride slides which cost $250+, and then we have the expensive Southco latch, extrusion, and wood.
     
  19. Oct 22, 2018 at 7:45 AM
    #5519
    danneskjold

    danneskjold Well-Known Member

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    You can cut a lot of costs (like I did) by using corner connectors from tnutz ($10) and non accuride slides.
     
    ace7196 and rajacat9 like this.
  20. Oct 22, 2018 at 8:14 AM
    #5520
    JLink

    JLink Well-Known Member

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    Lifted, Locked, Armored. Ready To Wheel.
    How did you attach the flat material (plywood?) to the extrusion? Little L brackets and bolts?
     

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