Hondo Garage's New Thing

Apologies if this is not a well thought out question but if the issue with condensation is amplied by single wall, couldn’t it be mitigated by a simple rain fly over the top. You could even have it anchor the the extrusion or side panels in cabana mode to provide a surface where the condensation would build up vs. inside the tent. Again, not an engineer/designer just thinking out loud. Humidity is a killer.

 

I'm in for a GFC, but I have a DCLB. Which cab racks can I get that will line up nicely with how much the GFC overhangs on the cab?

 

Thanks for the welcome! Yeah, I’m all for KISS, which is why I think you’d just have a rectangular/rhomboid piece of fabric that you’d anchor to the extrusion/side panel, toss it over the top, and repeat on the other side. Let the tent struts open it when popping the tent open. You could then ball it up and put it in a stuff sack and dry it out when your adventures are over. Not sure how thick the fabric would have to be.

But then again, as you mentioned the waffle weave cloth is probably the simplest. In the colder climates, the GFC insulation panels may provide enough of of solution. Similar to what outside van has done with their builds but hopefully for a lot cheaper.

 

I presume there's a small gap between the tubing and the doors. Take a piece of Formica or some other stiff but thin material and cut to fit the door making allowance for the latches. Transfer the outline of the tubing layout onto it. Get some 1/2" - 1" closed cell insulation. Cut and fit the insulation, following the layout, so that it will allow the door to close . Take the Formica/insulation fabrication and glue it to the door. For cosmetics glue Formica or some other material to the exposed insulation. Use aluminum flashing tape to seal the edges of the insulation.
Closed cell insulation is very efficient compared to most other insulating products such as Reflectix. In some ways, I'm just building a composite panel.
This should help with condensation as well as providing heat and cold insulation.

 

Anyone know of a decked-like drawer system that I can install on one side of my bed? I want to leave the other side open because I want to install a sliding track for my mountain bike to fork mount to and slide in and out of the bed completely. Maybe having a system that is that heavy would be a bad idea to have on one side with only a light mountain bike on the other side?

 

By far cheapest to build it yourself.
But I think goosegear has single-wide drawer setups?

 

How about this one... Windows or no windows?

 

Damn not 3/4"?

 

I think the majority are going no windows. I was originally planning on both, but after reading a bunch of opinions, I settled on front window only. I had no use for a back window, it essentially just let people see into the camper. If I wanted more light I could just open up a side. I kept the front window because my dogs will be riding in back and I wanted to keep an eye on them while we were on the road.

 

Two part question: how has your rear tent flap vestibule set-up been performing in terms of ventilation and in general? Could you re-post your final design you arrived at?

 

Drill it out?

 

I've done this before. But depending on where the center of the hole is that might not work.

 

Looks like they are making solid progress. If they keep it at 10 a week, they'll be cranking them out and catching up on the leaderboard list...Wonder how long they'll keep this up. If it stays at this rate, my camper will be done in 4 months when the rough build date I received was in May.

Cool to see they are doing well and got foam!

 

And that’s only two months worth of foam in that photo

 

@wileydavis I'm not running any rack or crossbar at the moment. I was hoping it was unnecessary for an 8ft foam surfboard, but now you've got me concerned. The mounts and Yakima bar setup would be about 4x the price of my noobie board.

I may need to go some more brainstorming.

 

It all depends on conditions, of course, but having a sandy surfboard in contact with a composite roof is going to eventually cause wear. You could throw some foam pipe insulation in between and probably get away with it for a while. If you're driving on smooth roads for short distances it would probably be fine. But if you're driving on bumpy roads or long distances on the freeway I'd be worried.

 

If you’re just starting out, you’ll upgrade from that Costco foamie in a bit. Here’s how I shove my board in my truck and it’s 9’4”.

Cheap and easy. If not, just spend the money and buy the racks. $150 for the clamps and ~$50 for the bars if you find a used set on eBay. You just spent ~$6,000 on a camper, $200 more wont kill ya haha.

 

Each of those corner connectors costs about $20 from 80/20...so that’s $160 in corner connectors alone. They use Accuride slides which cost $250+, and then we have the expensive Southco latch, extrusion, and wood.

 

You can cut a lot of costs (like I did) by using corner connectors from tnutz ($10) and non accuride slides.

 

How did you attach the flat material (plywood?) to the extrusion? Little L brackets and bolts?