Hooray! Front Suspension Noise

Its a new round in everyone's favorite game: Name that noise over the internet.

I have a clunk when I go over potholes, manhole covers, etc.

Sounds like front suspension.

I don't recall it being there until I put in the ECGS bushing the other day. Everything is torqued to spec that was removed.

I didn't mess with cam bolts because they started to move when I tried tightening them and I didn't want to mess up my alignment.

Everything seems tight, except the top cap nut on the strut/coilovers. I have no idea how to torque those though as there doesn't seem to be much room for a torque wrench.

Here is a video of my wife pushing down on the suspension and the noise it makes? Don't know if this is normal or what is causing the clunk.

 

The interlock tab between skid(splash) pans isn't in the notch for it. Drop all but the front bolts and lock it in before installing all the other bolts.

 

Hmmmm are you sure?

I am pretty sure that I made sure the tab was in. When I removed it this time I just kept it all together as one skid plate and removed the two rear most bolts and the front three bolts.

 

So I owe you a six pack. Thank you!

It seems to be the skid plate. I think there might be something else, but maybe the skid plate is amplifying it? Either way it is less or non-existent with the skid plate off.
One of the bolts was loose that was holding the two together.

Is this not how the interlock tab should be?

 

So the noise is still there. I definitely think the skid plate is acting like an amplifier though. It is super loud and noticeable when the plate is on and less so when off. If I am driving over a driveway curb I do not get noise really backing over it, but I do get noise going forwards. Thoughts?

How do I know if my LCA or UCA bushings are bad?

 

Not being able to get it aligned is a sure way to tell if your LCA bushings are bad.

 

Just had the alignment done. All good on that front.

 

You can check the bushings (UCA or LCA) by jacking it up and using a prybar or long screwdriver to see if there's too much play in the bushing. "too much play" is a very relative phrase but that clip makes it sound like its a metal on metal noise. So if it's a bad bushing you should be able to see a lot of play. You said you installed the ECGS bushing, which means you had your CV out right? Check to make sure it's seated all the way and there's no play in the inner joint. Last thing I could think of is the top 3 bolts holding the shock in, just take a box end wrench or skinny socket and tighten it as much as you can by hand. Don't put a pipe on it or anything. IIRC the torque spec is only like 40 or 50 N-m which is about as tight as you can get it with a regular size wrench. If it started happening after you installed the ECGS bushing just through everything you had to disassemble and check to make sure it's all together right and there's no play anywhere.

 

Yep, CV is seated and no play (which is nice because before the bushing it was moving everywhere).
CV axle nut, LBJ, Tie Rod were all torqued to spec. Sway bar end link was tightened up as much as I could.

I guess I will jack it up and check for play. What am I doing with said crow bar to check bushings?

I will check the strut mounts again just to be sure.

 

There's a good chrisfix video on this, let me find it real quick

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8CP2COW6Vo

Couldn't find the ChrisFix video, but this is the basic idea. You should also jack it up and do the tire shake test, side to side, and then top to bottom. You can have someone else do it while you look around underneath for movement

 

Well, I stand corrected. Checked the shock mount bolts. They were fine. Decided I would check the CV one more time and it has play. Horizontal or lateral movement. I could swear that it wasn't there when I installed it, but could be wrong.

So is it not installed all the way or did something happen to it?
Or is that normal? I assume not

If I just need to hit it harder again with the crow bar can I do that with out removing the knuckle again?

Here is a vid of the movement:

 

I remember mine having enough play to get a prybar behind it to pry it out, not sure how much is too much though. There's a recess on the inside of the diff tube for the cir-clip to snap into and it has a bit of play, will need someone else to chime in and say if that's too much. Check the axle on the other side, and if it has play like that, then I'd say your good to go and that's not the issue. You could also have someone cycle the suspension while youre under there and look for movement in the CV

 

I checked the other side and there is play but maybe not as much, but they are also different CV axles on on different sides of the differential, so who knows.
Everything I can find online has people saying lateral play is fine, but I can't find any videos of how much people are talking about.

The member DDD has a video with more play than I have and he says his play is normal according to dealer (but what do they know, j/k), but his is also a second gen.

 

I think it looks okay watching it again, like I said I had just enough room to slip a crowbar in there which looks about like what you have.

 

Cool, except I am back to square one on the noise. Still need to get it jacked up and check bushings I guess.

 

get under it again without the skid on and see if you can narrow down the noise. from the original video definitely sound like something "tapping" something else or rocking in place.

I have mine but not replaced yet, check your front diff arm bushings, maybe they are completely shot?

 

What are front differential arm bushings?

Edit: nvm found out.

 

Jacked the truck. Control arm bushings seem fine, at least what I can tell from wiggling the tires or pushing them forwards and back. Drivers side has a little rubber squeak to it, but nothing that would be making this large clunk. Also checked camber bolts. Seemed to be torqued to at least 100 ft/lbs

Passengers side when pushing the tire in and out causes the sound from the first video, I think. It definitely sounds like something is loose or hitting/rubbing something else.

I will try to get a video of it later. My wife was gone this morning when I checked.

 

is the wheel, rotor, and brake caliper on correct? I changed brakes one year and drove to Florida, only to discover that when I got off the highway that the front wheel was loose, but it was tight when I left. I'm glad for hub-centric wheels

edit: check your OTRE and ITRE for play (if not mentioned already)