Hope i made a good choice... Icon extended travel setup. What do u think?

Thanks Jerry,

Here she sits on the New Method Standards and the leaf packs have no sag and feel great being just broke in after 6 mos.

 

Nice setup HectoRome. I just bought a new 2015 4door dcsb 4x4 taco. I had a 2013 Fj before that i just sold. I hated to sell the fj. I priced it high thinking it would not sell an it did to my surprise. So I went a bought the new taco the same day. I think it is better for me anyway with 3 kids an being a dd. I had the fj setup with 2.5 ext. Icon coilovers along with all pro ucas an bilstien 5100 shocks in the rear with sway away springs. That made room for firestone mts 285 70 17s an xd revolver rims. An the fj road better then it did stock on road an was great offroad. Anyway. Now i have to figure out what setup is best for the tacoma. The front suspension is basically the same. But the rear of course is different. So from what i read already adding a whole new leaf pack is prolly my best option followed by a 2.5 shock of choice. Right? If the icons ride as good as the fj did on the tacoma i would be happy. But this time i think im going to get different ucas. I can get the icons non remote res for right at 1k. Which i think is a good price. I like everybody want a lift that is going to ride good on an offroad. As my truck is my dd too. I will do the install myself so that allows me to spend a little more on parts. I had a 06 taco dcsb 4x4 offroad an i put a rough country 3inch lift on it. An wasnt pleased. It did allow me to run bigger tires but the ride sucked for the must part on an offroad after installing the rough country. An i got the infamous vibrations with a touch of axle wrap. Which sucked evn worse. This time around i dont want that at all. Hopefully i dont have to go through that this time. I hope this time around will go smooth. Have any of you guys had any problems out of the higher end lift kits like icon? If so please fill me in if you dont care with the details. I want a 3inch lift an 33s. But if i spend big bucks an buy a quality lift an it rides worse or creates problems i will take it off. I hope it goes smooth though. Btw anybody on here live around south central ky or north tn that has icon or simular setup? Almost everyone i know that lifts there tacomas settle for a cheapest lift they can find. Regardless of preformance. But owell to each is there own. If i cant have quality i will just stay stock. If i lift i want to be able to run down to windrock tenn an go wheeling if i choose to one day an drive back an forth to work the next.

 

@hollandhunter

I have a pre-runner and as such run lifted spindles which allowed me to keep my coil overs @ 0 lift. So the ride is outstanding but as you have a 4X4 this won't be an option for you.

Since the lift you're wanting is 3" then your on road ride will still be very good with which ever of the 'Big 3' (Icon, Fox, Kings) you go with particularly if you like to run at speed.

If you're a slower speed, rock crawler or slower speed Expedition kind of weekender then the OME set up front and rear will satisfy your needs particularly if you haul lots of weight due to gear. OME would be the most budget friendly of the quality set ups for the Tacoma platform. I would still advise UCAs and extended rear brake lines though.

For reference my truck is my DD and went with the Icon Digressive shocks because I'm on road 95% with 5% off road.
I like the more 'tighter' feel of the Icons on road as the wheel feels more like a track suspension and not a cushy sedan feel. And off course off road the ride is outstanding with the suspension impulse virtually mitigated for a nice plush ride.

Keep in mind all the little things are present as well, limit straps up front, extended brakes lines front / rear, hydraulic rear bump stops.

Once you understand / know how you're going to drive it in what application then slowly piece it together, I put mine together over 2 years and never once paid full price for anything.. FYI, I bought my remote resi's from Headstrong for literally a couple dollars more than you mentioned . . .

 

I now think im gonna make a call and change my order and get the Fox 2.5 factory series setup. This is what i will have and some things i already have received....

Change order to:

Fox 2.5 factory series front coilovers w/ DSC ext. travel.
Fox 2.5 factory series rear shocks with resi and DSC

Already have:

Light racing UCA's
Icon expansion leaf pack aal 1.5
Driveshaft carrier bearing drop
Diff drop
Axle angle shim kit
Sway bar relocation kit

***Does this look to be a good setup so far? What else should i get?
Do i need limiting straps or ext. brake lines?
What should i do about bumpstops?
I run 285/70/17

My truck is a DD, but i do go to the sand dunes 2 to 3 times a year. Out there i hit some washboards but not too much. I dont jump it but play around at mild to high speed.
Wish they made a 3" or even 2" spindle lift for my 4x4...

 

Do some research on the diff drop. What I've read is that it is not advised for the 2nd gen Tacoma. If your lift out back is less than 2-2.5" then you will very likely not need the CB drop or the shims. Run without them for awhile and see how it goes. Lots of people run Wheeler's Superbumps front and back. I like mine..they go squish not bang when I push it a bit too hard.

 

Why is it not advised to use the diff drop? Will it damage anything? I thought if anything it will help cv angle. Ill order some of the bumps from wheelers this evening then. Also i have already installed the cb drop. That will be ok i hope. I havent put the axle angle shims in yet tho. Thanks

 

@10ac

The diff drop isn't really needed if you lift it correctly IE: No Lifting Blocks, the torque dynamic on the rear diff is very pronounced on the 2nd gens due to the axle length and weight from the rear of the cab and the not so much weight of the composite bed (which is why we experience noticable squat when mashing the pedal from a dig) . Doesn't really have anything to do with the CV / u-joint angle and more to do with how far the axle 'Yoke' or spline is pulled away, outside of the output cone at the rear of the transmission.

Again, Not at all needed as you're running the Icon AAl (which I ran for over a year - the ride is great !) But as you're are / will be running extended length (or slightly longer travel than stock) I'd definitely advise extended rear brake lines in the rear at least.

The carrier bearing drop is only if you're experiencing drive line vibrations, if don't have any now don't install it as you may induce them by changing the angle.

Axle shim kit, again only if you're experience drive line vibes and best when used in conjunction with the CB drop. Again you're not using blocks to lift so you will be good.

Now if you do a lot of highway driving at highway speeds then leave the sway bar on. If you take the occasional family trip out of state (Disney Land etc) then I'd recommend leaving the sway bar off as it will limit front end articulation in the chop and make the truck 'Bump steer' or shoot off in one direction or the other while running at speed in the whoops as one side will affect the other as the wheels independently cycle through their length or or restricted length of travel. Now if you're a more 4X4 slow and go, EXPO overland kinda guy it's going to limit your articulation in regards to flex as well. Your call here, but most guys who wheel a lot remove the sway and leave it off. I had mine on at first, then later took it off and there was a noticeable off road. On road of course there quite a bit of sway / lean and definitely drives like a truck and doesn't corner like a sedan anymore. You decide what's best for you here.

Limiting straps are not needed with your set up, But You'll need limiting straps up front if you ever install after market LCAs or anything with uni-balls on the lowers.

Hope this helps brother . . .

 

Thanks @HectoRome fir ur help and everyone else that chimed in with help.
I do already have the front differential drop installed as well as the carrier bearing/center bearing on driveshaft drop already installed. Im not expeirencing any vibrations so far and hope not to.
I do not wheel alot but do as mentioned go to imperial san dunes 2 to 3 times year in winter. My driving consists of 30 miles total to work 4 to 5 days a week. Then maybe an occassional trip to big bear lake in the mountains.
Does anyone make a quick sway bar disconnect for my truck?
Today i changed my order and have the fox setup in process of being built to order. 3 week wait time begins now
I have also been reading about alignment using the light racing upper CA's. The settings ive read is to set at 0 camber and 0 toe and 2.5-3.0 caster. What do yall think about these settings?

 

Those numbers will be fine. If you get driveline vibes after the suspension goes in, start by taking out the CB drop. Good luck!

 

Great News on the No Vibes!! But just like Bruce said, once you get all the components in and do experience vibes get rid of the CB drop 1st. But if you're not having problems now you shouldn't later either.

No QD for the sway bro, it's either on or it isn't, no in between. Leave it in if you don't wheel as much, I'm from Yuma so I know the dunes well as I learned to drive there, haha!

For how you use your truck the set up you have now will serve you well for years. Later once your stock leaf packs start to sag and the ass end squats, throw some ALL Pro Standards in and it will give you the same amount of lift you have now with a fresh factory leaf pack with the Icon AAL. And as we All Know, factory leaf packs always sag give or take 2-3 years. It's how I started and ended up and the truck rides great.

Solid choices Sir and enjoy that truck . . .

 

Where did you get this pricing from? That must be vendor level cost. The best pricing Ive seen is Wheelers Offroad.

RJM

 

Did you end up leaving them set a Zero for daily driving?

RJM

 

I went to ORW, they hooked me up there with great pricing