Hoping a valve adjustment will suffice...

My 1999 3rz has just over 160k miles. The last 40-50k has been running flat out across i20 making 14 hour commutes. This last trip I noticed a low idle and engine stutter accompanied by a reduction in gas mileage on the return trip. I popped in new plugs and wires but it didn’t fix it. #3 plug had the electrode nearly burnt off and the others were just really sooty.

So on to the compression test.
#1-50psi dry
added some oil-50psi
#2-143ish dry
#3-137ish dry
#4-127ish dry

So off to the searching and now have the conclusion that my valves may just need adjusting. Especially to bring #1 cylinder back around.

Questions:
-Where do I get shims?
-Do I need that ‘special tool’ if I just pull the cam?
-I’ve got a week to fix this including any parts orders, can it be done?


Note: Toyota stealership is 10 miles away but seems to never have anything in stock I need.

 

Read some more and decided to pull the head tomorrow if weather permits or Monday. I likely have 1600 miles on the valve(s) in question. Possibly toast, possibly not. No sense in guessing since I do have a week and also a spare vehicle.

 

subbed 4 nowlege

 

At 50 PSI, you have a lot more issues then a valve adjustment. If the rings are good [wet and dry were the same read] then you have a burned valve and it's time for a rebuilt head.

 

This is what I’m afraid of being the case. I’m just going to carry it to the local head guru and see what he says.

 

Pulling the head after lunch.

 

Shims can be changed w/o pulling cams by anyone who has set shimmed valves before or anyone determined to do it.

Getting a Toyota junkyard head is the best way to get shims. Rearranging and changing just a few usually does it on a normal job
HOWEVER what's up with that #4 measurement?

edit: Once again we are showing the need for a travelling set of shims and tools for installing shims. It's pretty much a standard part of motorcycle forums.

You can order assortments for Toyotas though new. If i remember it was 100 or so for an assmt.

 

Head is coming off. Probably gonna get all new valves and guides. Suspect #1 has a burnt valve. #1 injector had soot on it and when I warmed it up for the compression test I noticed that oil would blow all over the place when the oil fill cap was removed. No water-oil intrusion is good...

Im assuming I can get the head reworked. Then sit on my garage floor, install the cams, and set the valve clearances. Remove the cams and install the head, cams again, and all should be right in the world..!?!!

 

It may be anything between a need for new head gasket (blown between cylinder and oil passage) and cracked head. I know my 320k miles 3RZ may be due for valve adjustment but the last time I pulled the head (at 300k) all clearances were within spec (never touched since the factory set it in 1995).

 

Well...burnt valve it is.

 

Yes, that's it. Might ask them how much to set the valves in shop.

 

What's up with the oily exhaust from 4 also? (the one with the wonky measurement.)

edit: I can't believe that made 50#

 

#4 has fresh spilled coolant on it. CNt believe it made 50psi either. You could actually hear it wooshing back and forth as the truck idled. I couldn’t figure out if it was #1or4 because those tie together before the main collector.

 

Wish I had been wrong..............

Actually welded up a head on my 1972 FJ40 Land Cruiser that had a badly burned valve. Was still holding 4 years later when I sold it. [of course that was cast Iron]

 

I wish I had been right (on the gasket part). Is it possible to reuse this head with new valves and some polishing or it is done?

 

I hope so. Any options for a slightly oversized exhaust valve? Ima take it by a couple of shops tomorrow and see.

 

Some quick looking says you can get a new complete head for $550 or so with $50 shipping.

It'll all depend on how bad the seat itself is. I'd do a complete rebuild on the entire head myself just because.

 

Found a local shop that claims they’ll fix it. I pulled all the caps and shims this morning. None are marked anymore and a few have cam lobe wear.

Found this place online that’ll do next day delivery. Should I stop at just valves or do guides as well. Full blown gasket kit will be ordered also.
https://partsology.com/valve-set-in...runner-t100-94-04-2-4l-7l-ev939-iv939-box-x16

 

do the guides if changing valves always pair that. Make sure there isn't a crack in the top of that chamber. Lots do.

Chicken or the egg?

You'll need a mic to get the shims back in order. Does the machine shop have a lot of old shims around? They can mill your think ones.

 

I carried it to a local shop this morning. The guy knew what he was looking at and when I starting talking about it he looked at my odd since I showed up in a clapped out Jetta with a motor I built. LOL. I brought the shims and the cups to ask about a few with cam lobe indents. I had them all in a 18 count egg carton and each one I Sharpied where it came from on the shim and cup. In the egg carton was a copy of the clearances before I tore it down. He was impressed with the carton and it's contents. He said he'd need the cams to set the lash for me when he's done reworking it. He'd make the shims work or make some more. I said I couldn't find any OEM or aftermarket seats online if that one was washed and he said they'd make that in house, too. He'd tear into it this afternoon or tomorrow and get me a list of parts to order if I didn't like his quote. Gotta love small town America. Although he turned me down 6 years ago when I wanted special work done to the VW head on the car I pulled up in. I had to send that one UPS about 8 hours drive away.