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Horn fuse keeps blowing

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by 2011DBLcabsport, Jan 23, 2013.

  1. Jan 23, 2013 at 5:52 PM
    #1
    2011DBLcabsport

    2011DBLcabsport [OP] Active Member

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    Hello everyone,

    So I have a train horn. It is hooked up to my steering wheel horn button and is turned on and off using a toggle switch. I first blew my 10amp horn fuse in the beginning of November and just blew it again tonight. My question is, can i upgrade to a 15 amp fuse to prevent blowing it? Will this damage anything in regards to the electrical system?

    And I don't care to hear anyone's negative opinions on the horn. To each their own, right? :D
     
  2. Jan 23, 2013 at 6:18 PM
    #2
    Millertime187

    Millertime187 I'll be your huckleberry!

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    Just a few little things. It's my DD
    I would run a 15 should be ok.
     
  3. Jan 23, 2013 at 6:28 PM
    #3
    2011DBLcabsport

    2011DBLcabsport [OP] Active Member

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    I figured it would be fine, but better safe than sorry.

    Thanks!
     
  4. Jan 23, 2013 at 6:32 PM
    #4
    P9HST2

    P9HST2 Well-Known Member

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    Fuses are there to protect the wiring, not the horn. While a 15 Amp fuse might be fine, Toyota put in a 10 Amp fuse because that was the correct one for the wiring. A circuit analysis, and redesign if necessary, would be the correct to do.
     
  5. Jan 23, 2013 at 6:34 PM
    #5
    File IFR

    File IFR "... Intercepting The Localizer"

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    How many amps is the compressor motor?
     
  6. Jan 23, 2013 at 8:28 PM
    #6
    2011DBLcabsport

    2011DBLcabsport [OP] Active Member

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    Should I keep using a 10 and just replace as necessary?
     
  7. Jan 23, 2013 at 8:29 PM
    #7
    2011DBLcabsport

    2011DBLcabsport [OP] Active Member

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    I

    I believe it is a 30 amp motor, but I will double check in the morning.
     
  8. Jan 23, 2013 at 8:30 PM
    #8
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    No no no no no


    NEVER simply go to a larger fuse.
    The fuse is there to protect the wiring.
    A 15a fuse requires wire that is 50% heavier than a 10a fuse.
    Pulling a constant 15a through a 10a circuit will start a fire eventually.


    Your train horn needs to be triggered by a relay connected directly to the battery with it's own fuse and heavy gauge wire.
    The stock horn button can trigger the relay no problem.
     
  9. Jan 23, 2013 at 8:35 PM
    #9
    Utard

    Utard Well-Known Member

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    Get one of those breaker fuses?
     
  10. Jan 23, 2013 at 8:37 PM
    #10
    2011DBLcabsport

    2011DBLcabsport [OP] Active Member

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    I will be pulling the 15 out tomorrow!

    As for the wiring, the horn is wired directly to the battery with a fuse inline on the wire. When I flip the switch for the train horn, the regular horn stays on as well. Essentially i blow the train and regular at the same time, or just the regular.

    Is there any reason the fuse continues to blow?
     
  11. Jan 23, 2013 at 8:38 PM
    #11
    2011DBLcabsport

    2011DBLcabsport [OP] Active Member

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    I'm new to all this... is a breaker fuse physically connected to the wire? Almost like a cylinder thing? If so, there is one on the wire. I had this installed at the shop that did my lift. I am not very knowledgable when it comes to these things!
     
  12. Jan 23, 2013 at 8:41 PM
    #12
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    He's kidding (I hope).

    You should not be blowing fuses if your horn relay is wired correctly.

    Unfortunately, impossible to see that from here.
     
  13. Jan 23, 2013 at 9:07 PM
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    File IFR

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    Did it blow during a short blast or when you lay on the horn?

    If the shop installed it, have then screw with it.... especially if you don't know what you're doing.

    Is the factory horn fuse burning out, or the fuse of the train horn?
     
  14. Jan 24, 2013 at 3:43 AM
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    Millertime187

    Millertime187 I'll be your huckleberry!

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    Putting a 15a fuse in a 10a slot will not catch a fire. It would be better to run a new wire but if he wanting to use the factory horn as the switch there is no prob. the wire on the 10 a circuit is the same as wire as a 20 a circuit that on the truck. Go look!
     
  15. Jan 24, 2013 at 3:55 AM
    #15
    Millertime187

    Millertime187 I'll be your huckleberry!

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  16. Jan 24, 2013 at 4:07 AM
    #16
    Nirvana

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    The fuse is blowing because you're pulling more amps through that circuit than it's designed. The extra load causes heat which then breaks the fuse. Putting a higher amperage fuse in only allows that heat load to go unchecked and has the very real potential to cause a fire but it's your decision whether you want to heed that advice or not, not my $30,000 vehicle/life.
     
  17. Jan 24, 2013 at 5:23 AM
    #17
    Millertime187

    Millertime187 I'll be your huckleberry!

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    What causes fire is when people put foil on a fuse or jumper wire or a 50,60a fuse in. Going from a 10 to a 15a the fuse will still pop before a fire. But it sounds to me if the compressor need a 60a fuse you will keep popping them. You will prob have to run a new wire with 60a fuse. But if your good use ur switch wire from horn to ur relay so you don't have to put button in.
     
  18. Jan 24, 2013 at 5:49 AM
    #18
    kd8bao

    kd8bao Well-Known Member

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    It's been mentioned prior but here is, IMO, the correct way to do it.

    If your pump is pulling 30 amps when on and depending where you have the pump located. Me personally would pull an 8ga wire from battery to the pump. Put a 30 or 40 amp inline fuse within 6 inches from battery. Run this to a relay. I can't remember the pin out for relay tho. Then from your horn line you can run a 14 or 18 ga wire. This is called your trigger wire. No real current is going through the wire. This gets hooked up to relay also. Then take at least a 12 ga for ground from relay to a factory grounding point in truck. Then from output of relay connect your pump positive wire. Ground your pump to factory grounding point.

    When you use a relay you are not trying to pu 30+ amps from a 10amp circuit.

    If this was done by a shop originally. Take it back and tell them to do it the right way. Then consider finding a new shop.

    As an up fitter that has outfit police and fire vehicles that is how I would run it.
     
  19. Jan 24, 2013 at 5:58 AM
    #19
    kd8bao

    kd8bao Well-Known Member

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    Make sure the relay is rated for the amperage being drawn plus a little bit.

    Here are the pin outs for relay

    30 - Battery 12V+
    85 - Ground
    86 - Signal
    87 - Output ( Pump for your application )
     
  20. Jan 24, 2013 at 5:59 AM
    #20
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Don't use a larger fuse in the original circuit. You will cause yourself headaches. Fire, melted wire, or an open circuit are all real possibilities when you remove the protection of a fuse. Installing a larger fuse IS removing the protection, regardless of what others have said. If the wire could safely carry a 15A load, it would have a 15A fuse.
    Use this for your horn setup:
    http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.ado13.com/techs/relaywire.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm&usg=__kxYvWlLTPD7KOXYeU7G5bnrdCdI=&h=457&w=609&sz=32&hl=en&start=3&zoom=1&tbnid=mBb5rlwaIvYeVM:&tbnh=102&tbnw=136&ei=1jsBUYXYM4vY9QTq9YDoCA&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dhorn%2Brelay%2Bwiring%2Bdiagram%26hl%3Den%26gbv%3D2%26tbm%3Disch&itbs=1



    Use the original horn button for this setup. Make sure you size the wire for the amp load of the circuit plus a safety factor.
    Ampacity chart:
    http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...e+wiring+ampacity&hl=en&gbv=2&tbm=isch&itbs=1
     

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