"hot wiring" power windows

Interesting choice of verb.

 

You do not like to be ordered around? Imagine that!

 

Sorry, my Mother was the English major, not me.

 

https://youtu.be/nOKcZROyGsY?feature=shared

Maybe visit dealer!?

 

I've just done some preliminary checks with my multimeter and it would appear that my driver's side switch is not powered at all times. The white/black and white wires don't read anything until ignition on, and then back off again when the door opens after key off.

I don't know if the Tacoma's with jam protection work differently but I'd like to try removing the white wire and feeding it with a constant 12v+ to see if it works. Hopefully I'll be able to check that today in a few hours.

 

White wires with a Black tracer throughout the whole truck are “Grounds” so no voltage would show on those wires. I have an Access cab and thus have no rear side windows and no White wire according to the schematic. Mind you I did my investigation some years ago and I’m not relying upon my memory, only the schematic. Look at the schematic and see the PWR Relay on the gray section that is switched and then feeds the white wires - you probably have not found the PWR Relay. I believe it is hard soldered on to the PCB within the Fuse/Junction Box under the dash. Also the 30Amp Power Fuse is also hidden and is very hard to get to without removing the Junction Box. So I guess your choice of applying 12VDC to the white wire is the best access. Let us know.

Relooked and found the 30Amp Power Fuse on the passenger side of the junction box, in the middle and about an inch above the fuse cover. I have three purple 30Amp fuses in that location. Don’t know which one is the Power Fuse.

 

That was a great tech in this video, really liked him, I would take my vehicle to him; Thanks for the post. He was clear and covered everything I thought of as he was talking. Unfortunately, the tech mentioned at 4:10 that the Tacoma did not have "Power window down with transmit" feature, the topic of the video. I have TechStream and IIRC there are only six window features that can be programmed on my 2021 OR AC. Perhaps there are more features for the Double Cab since it has more windows.

 

doubt it. ill hook up my techstream and check the custom features.

 

@Jrmntr I know I did not do the following in my investigation years ago as I have the Access Cab.

The Yellow wire (page 4 on schematic) from the Main Body ECU goes high to activate the "PWR Relay" which in turn supplies power (via white wires) to the rear window controls as well as the white wire on the main Drivers Window control. I can only think this is some kind of "child control" for the rear windows - does a child control exist on your Double Cab?

I now see, once again, what brought me to the conclusion that the LIN was in charge of the windows shutting down after power down and opening the door. The Right Front Passenger window control shows it is powered at all times, so the only wire that could deactivate it is the purple LIN wire from the Main Body ECM.

Instead of doing anything with your White wires perhaps try to take the Yellow wire from the Main Body ECU high, that will bring the white wires high as well through the PWR Relay. My thinking is the front windows still will not work, but the rear windows may very well work, as it appears they are not controlled by the LIN.

I sure hope your tinkering reveals this is easier than I thought.

 

Hold up is this already a topic? aren’t we supposed to blast OP and paste the link??

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/operate-windows-without-starting-engine.769022/





seconds what you are saying about the door opening i think as well..

 

Or MacGyver. Did the person mention chewing gum and paperclips?

 

@Toycoma2021

So I did do a bit of tinkering, and learnt a few things. I removed the white wire from the connector and applied constant 12v in its place. This did not seem to do anything at all.

Removing the small purple LIN wire from the master switch does indeed allow control of the FL window, but only the front left window, if I recall, that works with or without power applied in place of the white wire.

Eventually I tried removing the purple and grey wires (both LIN according to diagram) as well as applying 12v in place of the white wire. This allowed all windows to be operated aside from FR, puzzlingly. Eventually this timed out, but the FL control remained.

This was all before I read your suggestion of giving 12v to the yellow, although I suspect it would have the same effect.

My double cab does have a lockout button on the master switch. My FR switch only has tiny wires so I'd assume that they only provide signal rather than doing any high powered switching.

Doesn't seem like a super easy mod at this point but I don't quite want to give it up.

 

Tenacity is a good thing.

Taking the Yellow wire High would do just as you have in applying power to the White wire - just a different way of going about it. AND leaves the system more intact if a solution is found. It would be nice if the PWR Relay was not integral to the Fuse/Junction Box, then the contacts could just be jumped.

Not at all "puzzling" the passenger side window does not work since the LIN has it deactivated at the MOTOR ECU not the switch control. Notice the passenger side window switch has no power supplied to it, only the passenger Motor assembly has power.

This would be a bit tricky, but you could try removing the two Violet wires from the Main Body ECU connector 1D pins 13 & 25 and then tying them together and see what the results are. Connector 1D is the top connector of the Body ECU on the side facing the firewall.

What are you doing to "remove" wires from connectors? Are you cutting wires or have you found one of the ways to "de-pin" these very small contacts from the connector bodies?

The "time out" I do not understand unless that Yellow wire from the Main Body ECU is doing something more than energizing the PWR Relay? Another possibility is the Drivers Master switch has more smarts than I have given it credit for.

You've never said what your vehicle is and what features it has, could you elaborate? Mine is an Access Cab Off Road 2021 with the option of activating or inactivating Auto Window Up and Down via TechStream. I will post a picture from within TechStream after my initial reply.

I don't recall just what features were not available with the Violet wire disconnected, all I can say at this point is I was disappointed and left it as stock. From your experiences I'd guess I had no control over the passenger window and/or the Auto Up/Down was dysfunctional.

Your original post asked for help from electronic experts. Those that could help would be versed in Networking, CAN and in this case specifically LIN. What is needed, I believe, is somebody that can design something like the Speedometer Calibrators like the Hyperlink & Rough Country product(s). Those products intercept the CAN data stream modify it and then put it back out on the CANBUS to correct the speedometer.

Another possibility is to go on the Toyota site and pay for their two-day access to their "Service Manual", find the theory of operation description for the windows and see if my supposition of the operation is correct. This is something I plan on doing whenever I procure a good internet connection and a color laser printer.

I hope I have answered as many of your quandaries as possible.