How can I clean my dirty engine? Liquimoly?

This engine would be a great candidate for before/after pics of a company’s product.

 

I'd use it. Maybe since its advertised to clean sludge you would want to do shorter change intervals at first. Maybe every 2500 miles and change the oil filter every 1000. Keep an eye on the oil psi and change filter if it the light comes on. The 2.7 are pretty tough so I bet it'll still run along time as long as the rings don't get sludge up and stuck.

 

Some of those came lobes look pretty rough

 

You can use literally any of the advertised cleaning products, take your pick..

Whether or not they'll work remains to be seen

 

Do a 3k change, and refill with more Restore and Protect. After a few changes, the filter will have collected it all. They, and other companies have products that clean really quickly. Those can clog up the oil filter way before the next oil change.

Like another said, you may need to inspect and or replace the oil filter sooner. Use better judgment than the previous owner.

 

Did you read post #3 by @Torspd ?

I know you're new here, but that's advice from a well trusted and experienced member.

 

I think trying to clean it is going to create more problems. I don't let my bbq get that bad.

 

Lol

 

This all comes down to a judgment call at this point. I had an engine that looked as bad. Used engine. It ran well. I added an Amsoil flush in. My problem became that the screen on the oil pickup was either clogged up by the flush or was clogged prior and and didn't have enough flow. And the flush didn't break it down well enough. Starved the bearings and there went that engine. That engine had a turbo on it too, so that added stress didn't help any. I only did one flush.

This stuff can be found to break it down and clean everything over a period of time. Just need to be vigilant with how things are looking.

 

OP- whatever flush you decide on, if you do it, PLEASE report back with after pics. We're all curious how well xxxflush works. A friend of mine that was a mechanic for years always liked the BG engine flush. Some of the customers he dealt with were *cheap* and couldn't afford new engines or lots of work. I I have first hand experience with the BG coolant flush, it did a fantastic job on my '94 Toyota Pickup and helped drop the running temperature of the truck with nothing else done besides the flush and new coolant.

 

jesus..

This is what I would do for sure, many short oil changes. Maybe every 500-1000 miles in hopes the pickup doesn't get too clogged up

 

Engine cleaning products make me nervous. A few years ago, I had a 78 CJ5 with the 304V8. It only had about 100K miles on it and ran like a scalded cat. I decided to start using Amzoil in it and used their cleaner per instructions. Within a few day, it started smoking a lot. My guess is was both rings and valve guides. I sold it shortly thereafter. As a result of my limited experience (which was negative), I would not do it again. YMMV

 

This is the key question right here.

And that is the key piece of advice regardless of what path you take.

And all of that followed by WHY do you want to clean your engine? What are you looking to get out of it?
Reason I ask is that "performance" is usually the #1 answer and I would tell you that engine sludge only really affects friction surfaces. Your friction surfaces look clean and lubricated - so no real performance gain to be had here. Will the engine run better if it is absolutely clean? Oh without a doubt, but how much better? You probably won't notice and a dyno might not even pick up on the meagar 1 to 2 HP gain.

As mentioned above on P1 - Best way is complete disassembly and reassembly.
Second best way is gently over time so that you don't remove so much that it turns into a sludge monster in your pan.

Products I've used for this are....
In the Fuel:
Chevron Techron
Berryman B-12
Seafoam
Marvel Mystery Oil
Transmission fluid

In the Oil:
Berryman B-12
Seafoam
Transmission fluid

Go with 2,000 to 3,000 mi oil change intervals to keep moving the dirt out and make sure you are using a high quality oil filter WITH A BYPASS VALVE. You might even want to do a filter change every 1,000 miles.
Also as mentioned, watch that oil pressure. Sudden spike or sudden drop means time to stop immediately. And if all you have is an idiot light like the rest of us, I wouldn't do it at all.

Does that sound like a lot of work and expense for minimal gains and with a high risk for engine issues? It sure does to me. Which is why I wouldn't mess with it.

 

Just a note for everyone talking about oil pressure - these engines dont have any sort of oil pressure sending unit. Just an on/off pressure switch (idiot light) with a super low threshold

 

I thought oil was supposed to have a nice wet. Shiny look, looks like you've been using a special dry version. Good luck with your project.

TOMB

 

This is what you need.

$323 BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service kit

https://www.amazon.com/BG-Dynamic-Platinum-Restoration-Service/dp/B0B4Z2J16B

 

Hi guys, I would not do anything to my dirty engine because it is running very fine. If I do something to it, it will get damaged. It will stay dirty and running fine!

 

The dirt's probably what is holding it together!

 

Doing some cleaning.


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That's crazy, I thought it was a coating of VHT wrinkle black spray paint at first glance lol.

Also I'm confused at this point. First post is "how can I clean my dirty engine", then a bunch of people gave good suggestions of what to use and how to gently clean while mitigating risk of clogging the pickup, then you decided "I would not do anything to my dirty engine because it is running very fine. If I do something to it, it will get damaged. It will stay dirty and running fine!" and next thing you know you have a picture of scraping the inside of the pan to clean it.

Friday thread came a day early I guess