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How common is the head gasket issue on the 05's

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by bh867, May 21, 2017.

  1. May 21, 2017 at 5:04 PM
    #21
    Kerrigan911

    Kerrigan911 Well-Known Member

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    Just did the head gaskets on my 05. Kept getting a misfire code on cylinder 4 along with having to top of coolant reservoir monthly, toyota redesigned the headgasket in 06 so the 05 and parts of 06 have the issue.
     
  2. May 21, 2017 at 5:33 PM
    #22
    Partzguy

    Partzguy Well-Known Member

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    I confess I'm not familiar with major issues on the 2015's that could cost as much as 5k. The truck I bought is Toyota Certifed for 7 years 100k. Granted, that program doesn't cover many items but I'm taking the chance it will cover a major internal engine or transmission problem.
     
  3. May 21, 2017 at 6:04 PM
    #23
    Ahoelk

    Ahoelk Member

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    180k miles on mine, no issues yet...knock on wood. No leaks of any kind or seepage for that matter.
     
  4. May 21, 2017 at 6:18 PM
    #24
    Justinlhc

    Justinlhc Not looking for a relationship

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    I was just giving you shit...because you're an 05 sellout :brianr:

    I'm not aware of the 2015 issues either. :cheers:
     
    dk_crew and Partzguy[QUOTED] like this.
  5. May 21, 2017 at 6:24 PM
    #25
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Beef jerky time

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    Coolant level slowly going down is the best indicator of a small head gasket breach. Obviously if the gasket blows open in a hurry you'll get a misfire but 99% of the time if the coolant level is always right at the top of the radiator then you're good
     
  6. May 21, 2017 at 7:18 PM
    #26
    80schild

    80schild Well-Known Member

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    I have only had my truck a few weeks, but after I bought it I noticed the coolant overflow tank had only about an inch of coolant in it. I drained it completely, changed the hoses, and refilled it... and so far I haven't noticed it go back down, but I'm definately going to keep an eye on it. Mine is a late build 2007 (made 6/07).
     
    bh867[OP] likes this.
  7. May 21, 2017 at 7:21 PM
    #27
    Partzguy

    Partzguy Well-Known Member

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    And when that happens, it's an Oh Sh*t moment...
     
    bh867[OP] likes this.
  8. May 21, 2017 at 7:29 PM
    #28
    bh867

    bh867 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    arb bumper winches- xrc 8 front xrc 10 rear 2 lightforce 140's 40" led light bar Custom CBI built bed 4.88' and arb's front and rear tc long travel
    I'm definitely going to be paying closer attention than usual now.
     
  9. May 21, 2017 at 7:40 PM
    #29
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Beef jerky time

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    It best to check it right at the radiator cap BEFORE you start it cold in the morning
     
    MotoEd and bh867[QUOTED][OP] like this.
  10. May 21, 2017 at 8:05 PM
    #30
    MotoEd

    MotoEd Ed-MotoEd

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    Northern NV
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    ARE Shell. Pelfreybilt front bumper. hi-clearance rear bumper w/swing out. Rigid light bar/fog lights/reverse lights. Pelfreybilt front skid. Home/hand made slidders. DR front coilovers. Camburg UCA. AllPro Expedition leaf pack w/u-bolt flip and Timbren bump stops. 285 70-17 on stock rims with Spider Trax wheel spacers. EBC slotted/drilled rotors with green pads.
    I had my head gasket go out at 142k miles on my 2005. It first started by being low on coolant every time I checked it once a week. It was full in the over flow but low in the radiator. Only about a cup low at first. I thought it was just a cooling issue. Soooooooo I chased myself in circles. Never mad a misfire or rough idling. Never blew a plume of white smoke out the exhaust. Oil was clean with no coolant present.

    So I went on a replacing binge. I replaced the the fan with an electric fan. Replaced the water pump. Replaced the thermostat. Replaced the radiator. Nothing helped. Just got worse and worse by the month. At the end it was eating a gallon of coolant just driving 12miles to work. Priced around and it was going to cost a shit ton to get the head gasket replaced and be out of my DD for about a week. It was going to be cheaper to just swap motors. I started asking around and someone asked if I tried BlueDevil head gasket sealer. Nope haven't tried that yet. I was kinda nervous pouring something in my radiator and having it plug up everything in the motor. I figured I was just going to replace it anyways so why not try. I bought the $30 bottle of magic, poured it in and followed the directions to the T. BAM! It worked. No more low coolant levels and runs like a champ. I now have 183k miles and still have no problems. I know I know. It's just a band aid but it was a lot cheaper then the 4-5 grand I was getting quoted to replace the head gaskets.
     
  11. May 21, 2017 at 8:10 PM
    #31
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Beef jerky time

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    Not that cheap considering all the parts you threw.. just kidding.. good to hear you had good luck with the bottle o' goop! I wouldn't trust that stuff in my rig bit to each his own..
     
    MotoEd[QUOTED] likes this.
  12. May 21, 2017 at 8:13 PM
    #32
    MotoEd

    MotoEd Ed-MotoEd

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    ARE Shell. Pelfreybilt front bumper. hi-clearance rear bumper w/swing out. Rigid light bar/fog lights/reverse lights. Pelfreybilt front skid. Home/hand made slidders. DR front coilovers. Camburg UCA. AllPro Expedition leaf pack w/u-bolt flip and Timbren bump stops. 285 70-17 on stock rims with Spider Trax wheel spacers. EBC slotted/drilled rotors with green pads.
    Either way I looked at it, the motor was done. So why not try. Plus if I did have to swap out the motor it would have been with one with lower mileage.
     
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  13. May 21, 2017 at 8:20 PM
    #33
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Beef jerky time

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    Some more advice for OP, the factory pink coolant is helpful because it stands out if you have an external leak (water pump, hose, rad,etc). If you see the coolant level go down check very thoroughly with a flashlight because things like water pumps are way more common and sometimes they won't leave much evidence behind other than some pink crust at the weephole.. it's when the coolant level is going down and the engine is bone dry and clean that you should worry. This would indicate an internal leak (like the haedgaskets) .. you're not necessarily going to see white smoke either, they only really do that when the gasket gets really bad and alot of time it's just moisture in the exhaust..
     
    GilbertOz, MotoEd and bh867[OP] like this.
  14. May 21, 2017 at 8:33 PM
    #34
    MotoEd

    MotoEd Ed-MotoEd

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    From what I researched on head gasket leaks, there is a couple of different types and symptoms.
    Blown Head Gasket Symptoms:

    • Coolant leaking externally from bellow the exhaust manifold
    • White smoke from the exhaust pipe
    • Overheating engine
    • Bubbles in the radiator or coolant overflow tank
    • White milky oil
    • Significant loss of coolant with no visible leaks
    head_gasket_areas_of_failure.jpg
     
  15. May 22, 2017 at 4:02 AM
    #35
    Northern Taco

    Northern Taco Well-Known Member

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    This is exactly 100% what I would do. I read about people paying more to replace head gaskets on a high mileage engine than it would be to swap in a low mile newer engine. Makes no sense to me. I would also try a head gasket sealer for $30 before dropping 3-4K on a new engine swap. People don't like those products, but if it works I really don't care.

    First thing I did when I bought my '05 was put the pill from GM in the radiator, it's suppose to help with casting flaws/pores, used it in a car I had years ago (2.4 dohc gm, widely known for head gasket issues) and that car went to 350k before I sold it without any issues.
     
    MotoEd[QUOTED] likes this.
  16. May 22, 2017 at 4:38 PM
    #36
    Kerrigan911

    Kerrigan911 Well-Known Member

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    I did the gaskets myself along with some other parts while i was in there. My total was just under a grand but some of the stuff you dont have to do.
    [​IMG]
     
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  17. May 22, 2017 at 4:44 PM
    #37
    bh867

    bh867 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    arb bumper winches- xrc 8 front xrc 10 rear 2 lightforce 140's 40" led light bar Custom CBI built bed 4.88' and arb's front and rear tc long travel
    So do you have to pull the motor to do the job or are you able to access everything without pulling the motor?
     
  18. May 22, 2017 at 5:43 PM
    #38
    Northern Taco

    Northern Taco Well-Known Member

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    People have done it both ways.
     
  19. May 22, 2017 at 5:59 PM
    #39
    Kerrigan911

    Kerrigan911 Well-Known Member

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    Leave engine in, pull the rad and you have room to work. I also pulled the wheels off and dropped it but I have a 2 post lift at home. The biggest bitch was that rear coolant header thing that mounts the the rear of each cylinder head. Like zero room to remove the bolt and 2 nutd per side. Also pull out the bottom studs of the front engine cover (with oil pump attached) to make it easy to remove and put back.
    Another thing I did was leave the headers attached and disconnect the flange. My header bolts were destroyed so on the ground they came off easily with an ez out socket.
    Feel free to ask me any questions here or via pm, I just finished the job so everything is fresh in my head lol
    I may do a brief how to with pointers if anyone is interested sted
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2017
  20. May 22, 2017 at 6:04 PM
    #40
    bh867

    bh867 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    arb bumper winches- xrc 8 front xrc 10 rear 2 lightforce 140's 40" led light bar Custom CBI built bed 4.88' and arb's front and rear tc long travel
    Sounds like you had some fun!
     

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