how do i extend fuse box wire (+) to battery?

one of the first group buys i participated in right after i got my truck was the Pelfreybilt battery cage. about 5 years later i got a Northstar 31M to go in it in what feels in my wallet like the 100th buy. i finally installed the cage tonight and, well, it's sturdy and cool as hell.

i can't get the positive connection to reach the terminal though so my truck is stuck in the yard, windows open. i need some suggestions on how to get my battery connected. many thanks.

 

a matching set with the blowby tank. i need to build a brace connecting the blowby bracket that's connected on the near side to the headlight screw. the other end is just kind of dangling.

 

I upgraded that wire to 2AWG and cut it to 18". You need to lift up the fuse box to get the bolt that connects the other end.

See post# 958
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...them-multiple-batteries-thread.295653/page-48

See post# 974
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...them-multiple-batteries-thread.295653/page-49

 

thanks for that. i hope it's not to difficult to get in there.

i ghetto rigged an extension with a 6 inch piece of 4 gauge wire with eye terminals on each side - one end to the battery and the other to the fuse box eye terminal attached with a stainless screw and nut then some electrical tape. i'll need to replace the entire wire or at least get better connectors before something bad happens.

 

You can also try a copper butt connector. I found 2 and 4 gauge connectors at Pep Boys. You'll need a crimper and shrink tube. Look up Gardner Bender HSB-28 Butt Splice Kit in Amazon.

 

It's not too bad to get in there...I just replaced my fuse box + cable and starter + cable with 2 AWG welding cable chasing an electrical issue. The 2nd post Chuy posted is the directions I used. The hardest part is gathering all the parts...needed cable, lugs, a crimper and heat shrink tubing. I was able to find everything locally except for the crimper which I got off of Amazon.

 

Almost forgot about this thread I created ...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-box-battery-wire-replacement-upgrade.420450/

 

It looks like it's going to be a pain to get in there. I got 24" of 4 ga to redo the entire length but now I'm thinking about butt splicing. I made this thread because i thought the whole cable needed to be redone but attaching an extension may work just fine.

 

Crimping can work if you crimp it properly and shield it well with shrink tubing. Electrical tape, or other taping, may come apart in the heat and you don't want that.

However, do reconsider ... that wire is what charges the batteries; it was meant to charge one, now it has to charge two.

Alternatively, you can do what I did on my daughter's Corolla when I added a 160 amp alternator (I think stock is 80 amps) ... I replaced the OEM wiring from the alternator with 2AWG to a power block. To the block I attached the OEM alternator wiring. Then ran 4AWG wiring from the block to a fuse block, then straight to the battery.

I ended up doing this in my set-up, despite upgrading the fuse box to battery wiring. Just to be safe ...

 

It looks like he still only has one.

 

@EatSleepTacos You're right! I thought he had a dual battery setup. He has a 27 with terminals placed in the center. Crimp away!

 

Just one battery. I'm ordering the fancy brass butt splice from Amazon.

Ultragauge shows the voltage at ecu is about a quarter volt lower that at UG. I can't remember how close the voltages were before I rigged the wire. We'll see if it changes after the brass connector is in.

 

cleared out the quick fix for something i feel better about leaving permanently. thanks @Chuy for posting the butt splice link.