How do I go about fixing this leak at the A/C condenser?

Protip: do not overtighten that screw! It will break as you're driving.

 

I tightened it a little but it didn’t hold. I added pure refrigerant 2 weeks ago and it has leaked out again.

I bought a Robinair 2 stage vacuum pump for $150 on Amazon (rentable Autozone pump is a beat up tiny 1.8 cfm so I didn’t want that) and Four Seasons seal kit so I will do this job soon.

 

You are asking way too many questions to do this work yourself
A local ma/pa garage is your best bet for a return to a working healthy system
You will regret not going this way

 

Please post back how it turns out. I'm hoping it is a simple O-ring leak.

 

Hey CurtB
I took it to a local a/c shop and they also said they think it is the evaporator. I found the part for %60 on rock auto, and the condenser for $72. I think I'm going to replace both of them. I have about 220,000 miles on my truck, and I've recharged my truck a few times but it has never held the refrigerant. Any tips you can offer would be great. I am using TIS toyota website for this project but I am just a little confused on how to add the Pag oil to the condenser and evaporator. ANY recommendations on what type of refrigerant r134a I should use?

 

Please do not just send that shit into atmosphere.

also, for those suspecting a leak. Toyota did you the favor of adding a green dye to it from the factory so it is easy to find said leak - if there is one. Good luck

 

Yea Im not letting that into the atmosphere. I know that shit is pretty bad .

 

Just put the pag oil in the condenser before you install it, with it laying flat it should be easy.

 

Well that sucks. You are a braver man than I to tackle an evap R&R.
Add the oil to the inlet side of the new parts, before install. Put the shipping caps back on as soon as you add oil, and leave them on till you reconnect the lines. PAG loves to absorb water vapor from the air.
If you are asking what brand of R134A to use, any as long as it is virgin (not recycled). And has no leak stop crap in it.
Use new O-rings on any connection you take apart.
There is a mesh screen filter in the hi side line just before the firewall. Pull it and inspect for debris, but unless is is squeaky clean, replace it. They are cheap.
Best of luck!

You say you have recharged before. How long did it last?

 

Thank you for the advice. It would normally last about 4 weeks.

 

4 weeks what a waste

 

Of?

 

Yeah, that's a leak that's a bitch to find sometimes.
One thing you posted.. the independent shop said they 'think' the evaporator is leaking. I would want to know for damned sure it was leaking before replacing it. You might buy a UV light and look for the leak yourself.

 

I've used the dye and UV light and I've never been able to find the leak, that is why I also think its the evaporator. I got the part at advanced auto parts. I started to taking the dash apart, I am almost done, It's not that hard. I'm following the steps from TIS. I'm still a little confused about adding Pag to the compressor, do I need to take it off?

 

No, the compressor still has oil in it. I'd add an ounce to the condenser and to the evap and call it good. At this point your are only guessing at the amount of total system capacity of oil.
You've got the dash apart and can see the evap? Shine that UV light on it in the dark and if you don't see dye, it isn't leaking. Losing a charge in a month will damned sure show up. Look at the end of the drain tube in the firewall with UV. If it's leaking down in a month it will glow.

 

I'm gonna say this again... use that UV light when it's dark. It makes a difference.

 

Also can some let me know where/how I should replace this filter? I do remember seeing a thread about it being somewhere in a expansion valve but I can seem to find that thread. It's a cheap part and since I have the system open I figure I should replace it.

 

There are 2 lines at the firewall. It is in the smaller one. It just pulls out.

 

I just replaced the seal at the condenser connector. The most difficult part was scraping and scotchbriting all of the corrosion off because there was a lot. I just pulled a vacuum to 30 Hg and shut off the vacuum pump. and I’m waiting to see if it holds. Is waiting for 1 hour good enough?

If it does I will continue to vacuum for 1 hour and then recharge. I also replaced the Schrader valves.

 

I don't trust holding a vacuum for a leak test. But, if it holds and you run the pump for another hour, add freon to bring the pressure up and soap the connection, look for bubbles. If no bubbles, . Flush the soap off with fresh water.