How do I handle this stripped UCA castle nut?

So, backstory - found out that my front right shock had broken, (not to mention that the boot on my CV axle was torn, and figured I would replace it too), and decided to actually try wrenching my way out of it, rather than a shop.

Surprisingly, the broken side wasn't crazy; with enough hootzpa i was able to get the needed bolts off, and was able to safely remove the broken shock. The problem comes on the other side, where i see that the castle nut that connects the upper control arm to the lower, is nicely stripped.



While i was able to muscle and move things JUST enough to get the sway bar where it needed to be, and got the one shock assembly in, this guy is preventing me from getting further on the driver side (and i really want to update both shocks). Do i just use a Dremel cutoff wheel, and ever so gently cut it off? I really don't want to (or have the skill to) replace the whole UCA, especially just for this stupid nut.

I am so close to not needing any help from a shop (though the tools were expensive, they will also last for the future), but I am wondering if this is something i need to pay for.

I also have NO clue (despite reading everything) how the heck the dust cap for the axle comes off, but that can come later.

 

I'd start with getting the next size socket down and hammering it onto the nut after removing the cotter pin. See if it's on well enough to get the nut loose. If you have access to a welder (sounds like no) could tack the socket onto the nut.

If that doesn't do it use a Dremel with cutoff wheel to cut the nut and bolt off as close to the spindle as you can. Nice and slow and want it ~1/8" from the spindle. Then use a two jaw puller or pitman arm puller to force the bolt through the spindle and what's left of the nut. Obviously you'd have to replace the ball joint.

Could try a nut splitter but my concern would be that if you deform the bolt too much and try to force it through the spindle you could damage the spindle.

Edit: Not as familiar with 2nd gen but dust caps on 1st gen were just tapped on with a mallet. Use a cat's paw and hammer. Lightly tap working your way around until it works it's way out. Some people will use a chisel punch to put a landing or two on it but that can risk putting a hole in it if you don't really know what you're doing so I avoid that method.

Edit edit: Looks like 2nd gens are same.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-remove-hub-dust-caps.159958/

 

Don't cut the ball joint. That nut is fucked, gonna need a new one, no idea what the thread size is, hopefully something you can get at the hardware store.
To remove the nut you should get a dremal cutting wheel and CAREFULLY do 2 or 3 cuts along the nut almost all the way through but NOT all the way or you'll damage the ball joint threads, you then hit the nut and it should crack then using pliers you can remove the parts of the nut.

 

For good measure treat the nut/ threads with some penetrating oil overnight

After removing the cotter pin see if a smaller deep socket will fit well enough to loosen it.

If not, you can try a chisel on the meaty part of the nut and see if you can get it to start turning with a few hammer whacks. If so, just keep reposition the chisel as it comes undone

 

Appreciate it guys!

I'm going to source a replacement nut first before i go cutting, but sounds like i know what has to be done. Can't say i love having to do it (go too far, and the repair gets way worse), but i figured that might be the only choice.
Also open to volunteers who have experience who wants to cut it.. lol (Ironically, Clearwater Bill i could nominate you, because i believe you are just down the street for me based on your location, also Largo.. )

 

I'd use a small pipe wrench after letting it soak.



Harder you push the harder it bites.

 

vise grip pliers, Bernzomatic mapp gas torch and some pb blaster penetrating oil

 

I'd use either a nut splitter or Dremel cutoff wheel. With either tool, stop just before you cut all the way through, then give the groove a whack with a hammer and chisel to finish the job. This will prevent damage to the ball joint stud.

For the dust cap, sharpen the tip of a flat blade screwdriver, then try to hammer it in the seam between the cap lip and the hub register. Work around the cap 360 degrees. If you butcher the cap, replacement one is like $40, not a big deal.

 

Don't cut the stud. Try with a pipe wrench or big vice grips first

I can almost guarantee this extractor type socket (in the right size) would work

 

Pipe wrench

cut the nut

 

Use a six point socket for stronger fitment after soaked with penetrating oil. Good luck!

 

I'd progress towards the dremel ... first soak it ... try that extractor socket first if you can get your hands on one - Ace, Home Depot. I have a 24mm that worked on my rear diff bolt a long time back - I thought 'no way this is going to work' and it grabbed the rounded nut and took it right off. Then try the small pipe wrench then dremel.

every time I see these threads I think of my front diff drain plug

 

Those extractor sockets are pretty cool. When a regular socket is trying to slip off as you turn it, the extractor will actually go the opposite direction, bite down and go farther onto the nut as you turn it

 

I've never seen a nut extractor like that in super size. They probably exists tho. If your lucky today and it fits, auto parts might have a set made for removing the security lug nut for those who have lost their key. Or for those who want your tires and rims Autozone had a set I could borrow, but my mechanic got the rounded out lug nut off for me.

 

Replacement nut is in hand, so now I get to choose my destruction method . Fun and nervous at the same time

Think I will hunt down an extractor nut first and go from there. Edit - just ordered a set from Amazon for delivery today. Fingers crossed

Also have some moog sway bar links coming tomorrow

 

Normally a M14 stud size would call for a 22mm nut, but Toyota uses a low-profile 19mm nut. I suspect a normal 19mm extractor socket would be too shallow for this application. @Madcat207 should find a 19mm deep extractor socket.

 

Do you even have to remove that nut to change the shock? On my 3rd Gen I disconnected the bottom of the spindle not the top.

 

That stud doesn't stick down that far. Even if the stud goes into the 3/8 drive slot you could still grab the outside with like a 21 or 22 mm box end..

 

Hmmm.. the set ordered aren't specifically deep socket, though I can't say that this looked like a deep socket job either...

 

They will work, if need be remove the sway bar link to ensure proper engagement.