How do I handle this stripped UCA castle nut?

this tool makes it easy ... but some type of pryer and rotate while persuading and you'll find the sweet spot.

$20 Bonbo 12020-2 Piece Axle Popper Kit Inner CV Axle Removal Tool Set Fit for Front Wheel Drive Vehicles, Remove Most Vehicles’ Half-Shaft Drive Axles & Fix Damaged CV Joints(2 PCS)

https://www.amazon.com/Bonbo-Inner-...6&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY

 

I broke 3 out of the 5 I have, flat rate lead to lots of abuse over the years. I've learned to heat up the locktite first now haha.

I'm too cheap to replace them so I just double nut everything.

 

Well. I just got a cv axle tool from autozone, but I won't claim to have had luck yet. I'm exhausted, frustrated, and fed up. I know it's easy for others, but this is grueling and I feel defeated.

I genuinely don't know how you guys do it, seriously..

Edit
...

Rage, and a chisle that I didn't care about did it. Hitting the notches in the axle finally got it to budge. God damn!

 

Working on cars in general is a series of simple things that end up being very challenging to accomplish. You learn tricks over the years that make it easier and how to fix the things that break when you have to go big to get things removed.

I love the longevity of Toyotas but downside of parts that last so long and a vehicle that doesn't leak oil is that by the time things break they tend to be solidly welded in place. My Jeep on the other hand was easy to work on because the parts got replaced every few years and remained lubricated by leaking oil.

 

Oftentimes when a axle won't pop out it's because the circlip on the splines is expanded. The opening in the clip needs to be pointed down. When it's pointed up (12 o'clock) the clip hangs down and doesn't want to compress and let the axle come out.
The tip is to rotate the axle 1/4 turn at a time and keep smacking. When you get to the place where the opening is pointing down (6 o'clock) it *should* cooperate better

 

I can do all that in probably less than an hour now.

Quality tools help, but experience is the real tool. I've damaged way more things than I care to remember.

Is the trucks control arms on jack stands? Looks like its sitting low, how is it sitting now?

 

The Jack stands were on the forward part of the frame (checked where Toyota said to put them), but the wheels were definitely pushed down from the new shocks.

When it was driving fine, the ride height definitely felt taller.. but changing from original 2008 shocks to new ones will do that.

But now I have to figure out how I funked up my brakes. Don't even know where to start now

 

For the future, as others have said, it’s easier to pry them out
I found an indexing prybar is a great way to go, lets you adjust until you find the sweet spot and it just pops out

https://gearwrenchshop.com/products/gearwrench-82300-2-pc-indexing-pry-bar-set-8-16

 

Fully noted. However, given that I seem to have jacked up my brakes doing this, I think I'm losing motivation to do any of this crap again....

 

the brakes don't work? Or the hardline (that makes the S curve) got bent and it doesn't slot back into its place? Can you tell a bit more about what's going on with the brakes?

 

So, i checked my ABS sensor, and they did have grease/debris on them, but still no bueno. Could be the sensor itself is bad, so Amazon is delivering some today.. cheap enough throwaway to try. The ABS light came back on after the cleaning, but when off again shortly after for what its worth.
When the brakes do act up, they almost sound like the calipers aren't withdrawing (can't specifically isolate a side), as i still hear a "grinding" like they were somewhat engaged. I know I haven't dumped all my fluid (that's what she said) as the reservoir is still full. I don't think i pinched the tubes, but i can look again i guess.

Open to more ideas (and take it to a shop is a valid one sadly), but I'm gonna spend some time with kiddo today and regroup tonight

 

Specifically, i have had the ABS light come on twice, and when braking down my road, the brakes shudder as if i was slamming them on ice and ABS was kicking in. I notice after that some "grinding" sounds remains. What is odd, is that i did 20 minutes of driving just fine, and it was only at the very end grabbing dinner, that the brakes.... broke

 

I would have hit that nut loose with my impact air chisel.....

 

wheel speed sensor?

 

OP, same thing happened to me, bought an extractor socket set, problem solved

 

Sorry yeah, that's what I meant. The little stick shaped guy that goes in next to the axle

 

The Matco ones are suppose to be lifetime warranty, ive swapped many of them out....
I HATE my Marco dealer though more than you can imagine, condescending lazy POS.....
I try hard not to buy anything from him but in this situation along with their really nice extra long fine tooth double end box ratcheting wrenching im at the mercy of that prick.....

 

I’ve found Matco stopped doing warranty on some items. Even their website says certain items are limited. Unfortunately our dude passed early during Covid. Because their warranty isn’t what it used to be, nobody has tried to get them to return.

Snapon on the other hand has surprised me what they willingly swap for warranty.

The big box stores Home Depot and Lowes I’ve never had issues with them.

Craftsman I gave up on years ago and REFUSE to buy anything with their name on it.