How do my alignment numbers look?

I’ve been to 2 different places for an alignment. Did both places give me a toe n go? Can they not adjust camber and caster anymore or are they being lazy? I have a 2 inch lift with stock UCAs which should be able to get within spec. I’ve been driving with the alignment this way for about 2 months, no issues with it driving straight, maybe a little more squirrelly on the highway but that’s about it. Is my alignment ok with these numbers?



Also my tires are not 245/75, they are 265/75, not sure why the sheet says that.

 

@pdaddy Your caster is a bit shallow. It will drive much better between 2.2-2.7 if you can get it there. Some people like 3+, but you’ll need UCAs to get that. Your toe and camber could be a bit closer to 0°, but sometimes that’s as good as she gets.

 

They didn’t do much at all. Your numbers before the alignment were decent and in spec but not great.

the numbers After aren’t much different. I always want toe 0 camber 0 caster 2 + on factory suspension.

 

Those numbers will make the truck fight going straight on any crowned road and if the steering components have any wear the truck won't drive well on any road.

 

Get a pair of aftermarket high caster UCA'S and it will drive much better at high speeds.

 

These are the numbers I was looking for when I went in the shop. I heard anything under 2.5 inches of lift should be possible to get these specs with stock UCAs. Makes me think the we’re going for the bare minimum

 

My truck has 153K miles on it so I’m assuming it has some wear. So what kind of numbers should I shoot for if 0,0,2+ will make it drive worse? It drives ok now

 

If it drives ok and it doesn't have any funky tire wear it's done.

edit: I didn't notice you were the OP. I went to TJ last night and that's my excuse lmao. I think it would drive a lot better on the freeway with aftermarket UCA's and more caster but if you're happy with it that's really all that matters.

 

Its the caster that bothers me. I'll bet that thing is all over the road.... My bet is they either saw things were in the wildly-broad specs that Toy gives and said "its in spec so get it out of here" or if you insisted on the "preferred" specs they discovered the infamous cams frozen, gave up and said "its in spec so get it out of here"

 

1.5 caster is right in the middle of factory spec range. With no lift you should be able to get it to 2.5 without sacrificing camber too much. It should drive well at 1.5-2.5

once you lift it 2 or 3” you need more caster and you’ll start sacrificing camber to get it. That’s where New UCA come into play.

 

I've experimented a good deal with these settings on a 2.5 - 3.0" lift. I've tried caster up to 4 degrees and various camber. I've settled on 3 degrees caster and zero camber, with a slight bias for road crown as being the best. Were I notice the extra caster most is on long highway drives. More caster creates a lot less fatigue because the truck naturally tracks better. The lower the caster, the closer you have to be glued to watching the road, and over many hours it takes a toll, on me at least.

Bear in mind that one side affect of higher caster is less clearance at the rear of the fenderwell. A lot of people sacrifice caster to run bigger tires. I do run aftermarket UCAs.

 

That's exactly how my trucks alignment is set up with an aftermarket HC UCA. It steers and handles really well.

 

Your lower control arm adjustment cams/bolts are probably rusted in place so they couldn't adjust them and they gave you what they could with the toe changes. I would check back with them to see if they say they are seized up. If they are, you won't get a good alignment. If it feels like it's darting back and forth on the highway, you most likely need new LCA hardware and at that point, you might want to do aftermarket UCA's as well to make it easier to adjust.