How long do you Idle?

I let mine run About 10 min in winter. the rest of the time I just wait for the fan to kick down.

 

theres no need to let them warm up......we are not driving a diesel where it is critical for 15min warm uptime, its a gas engine fire the fker up and ride lol, at most from time to time i wait till the fan stops roaring at me (20sec)

 

Are you Earl Dibbles Jr?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCVTq-UW2h4

 

Get in. Turn Key. Put on Seat Belt. Put into Gear. Drive. About 20 seconds total when I am taking my sweet ass time. I've done this my whole life with a bunch of different vehicles (Diesels being the exception) and it has never caused any problems.

 

There is no reason to excessively warm up your engine, a good 30-60 seconds should suffice, but making such a bold statement like yours is a little much.

When the oil is cold it doesn't flow as well, and makes it difficult to flow to the required areas and properly lubricate. This really becomes a problem for the start the engine and crank it to 5k rpm crowd. Keeping the engine below 2500 rpms for the first 5-10 mins of driving is the best thing you can do.

Not only does the engine oil not flow as well when cold, combined with the already terrible combustion by-products, it really forms some nasty stuff that doesn't lubricate.

In terms of fuel having no possibility of getting into the oil, please explain that one. If your rings when cold perfectly seal the cylinder, I shudder to think what they do as they are expanding due to thermal expansion. On the same topic, if it was possible to fully seal the cylinder, I would say you could probably get 10-20k miles per oil change, being that combustion products (including unburned fuel) are some of the major contributors to engine oil wear.

 

Cold oil means cold brittle valve springs. Cars like the z06 don't like cold springs over 4000 rpm

 

well noone has stated that they go balls to the wall with the engine cold.

 

+1

The thread isn't about Z06, and it's not about cranking it up and hitting the drag strip.
If it's below zero, then it might be a good idea to let it idle for a few minutes, but for the most part, the time it takes to fasten the seat belt, check the mirrors, and put it in gear is more than adequate for 90% of us.

I've got the 2.7, revs a bit higher than the 4.0, and even it doesn't see anything above 2500 until I'm almost 10 miles down the road pulling the grade out of Pomona into San Dimas.

 

I dunno if you guys were addressing my post; but yes I think this is adequate for most people, however it should also include not going over 2500k rpm for the first few minutes. Stating things like "there is no reason to warm up the oil" is just retarded.

 

We had these same arguments last year, just like we have the same "how often should you change your oil" arguments all year long. Opinions are like elbows, everybody has a couple. Here's mine:
When you're idling you're getting zero MILES per gallon.
Most engine wear occurs at start up & lube oil doesn't flow as well in cold weather, so all the more reason to use a 0W-20 or 0W30 synthetic oil.
When idling, you're mostly just warming up the jacket water. Other fluids don't come up to full operating temperature until the truck is driven. Idling doesn't warm up the drive train.
It sucks to drive to work in a ice cold truck and it looks stupid to drive down the road with your head sticking out the driver's side window because the windshield is frosted over.
A modern, fuel injected, computer controlled engine does not need to be warmed up before driving, but it won't hurt the engine to let it idle long enough to get the heater up to temperature.
The thread is "How long do you idle?" Myself, I don't let any of my vehicles idle, if I can see out the windshield I take off. I will let the truck run while I clear the frost off the windshield however. I've done this all my driving life and never had an engine failure of any type.

 

Oil takes a good 30-40 minutes to warm up, so it will not reach the ideal viscosity/flow rate within a practical amount of time. 0Wxx oil starts off thinner, so it will reach the ideal flow rate faster. EPA's current milage tests include cold startup, which is probably why Toyota specifies 0W20 for many new engines to eck out an extra 1-2 mpg and look good in ratings.

The high revs at startup isn't programmed into the ECU for engine longevity; it's there to warm up the cats faster to meet emissions regs. It may in fact be detrimental for wear, but Toyota doesn't really care if the engine lasts 7 years or 15 years, because the powertrain warranty expires after 5.

Notice the revs drop when you shift into reverse or drive? It's probably better to reduce idling time, and just drive it easy for the first few minutes. I idle for about 30 sec, the idea is for the oil to circulate through the engine from the oil pan.

 

Are the Z06 valve springs made out of plastic? The mechanical properties of steel doesn't change for practical purposes between -40 and 200 deg.

 

This. The high idle for my 2TR is around 2100 rpms, sometimes higher. I always hated it and have tried everything to lower it but to know avail

 

it most definately does. ask any spring company about cold springs. i didn't say anything about going balls to the wall, i said 4000rpm. you guys are putting words in my mouth.

 

i know, i dont wait to warm up. i drive around after a two or three minutes, but i dont take it over 3500 either...

 

Well a rev limiter on Tacoma's are what? 5500 rpm? LSX Engines are 5700 stock? I would say 5k rpm is nearly 95% throttle. therefore balls to the wall. And funny how Z06 is so different when every lsx engine uses the same heads, and they interchange in every single lsx application.. i.e. a set of 243's will interchange to 241's will interchange to 863's. And so on and so on. The springs in a LS6 which is the most common Z06, are 243's. And they are the better flowing heads GM has made for the lsx engines. That's why you mostly see them on vettes and 4.8's to give them a little better flow to have the ability to make more power. The springs can't be a shitty plastic or therefore plastic at all! because they constantly are being beaten on. What you are thinking are called "springs" is the retainers holding the spring on the valve. Those break because they are plastic. They have updated ones now to be able to withstand the abuse.


Source: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-...-z06-what-to-do-to-avoid-the-valve-issue.html

The modern EFI engines have maf sensors... ( wait, haven't vehicles since nearly the middle to late 90's have these sensors? ) yes. And since the late 90's there is no need to 'idle car to warm it up; Because the maf sensor 'senses' the cold air coming into the engine and the computer tells the computer what to do to make it safe for the engine to run properly. A well maintained vehicle will last for decades as long as you use proper methods of maintence.

edit- you did say 4k which is still more then 80% throttle. Still way more then a normal driving condition.

 

LS6 rev limitor is 6600rpm, LS7 is 7000, my lightly modded LS1 is 6800.

only the Z06 uses the yellow springs...maybe ls2s but they dont have hollow valves


I know I am talking about the springs. They are the yellow springs. I have personally broken one and a PAC 1518 spring.

look up z06 broken valve spring : http://www.google.com/search?q=z06+broken+valve+spring&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&ie=&oe==

tons of instances. this is getting blow up way more than i intended.

edit:

dont want to shit on this thread.

 

roughly this

 

I think this thread explains why there are trucks doing 15 MPG and 1 qt of oil every 3000 miles.
Put load on engine that is not at correct temperature and it wears. When it does wear then it will cost you in fuel and oil. Its been like that since the day first engine was build.

 

Agreed don't want it either but my HCI LS1 Camaro had a stock limiter at 5700. I raised it to 6100-6300 Don't remember exactly. Because my TQ curve ended at 5900. But springs aren't made of plastic though. They are a metal materal. May be shitty, but not plastic.. And i've only had personal experiences with the retainers blowing up.