How long do your brakes last?

Not at all. Replaced the fluid at 100k. Replaced clutch at 150k, no slipping or anything, pedal just wasn't engaging until you completely took your foot off of it.

 

Thanks.

 

Stock rotors warped at 25k miles but plenty of pad left.

 

That's my problem too. The question is what rotor to replace the OEM rotors with ? New OEM's would accomplish nothing - they would just warp again.

 

Wonder why? I had to do my brakes at 74k. Pads were shot. Rotors were fine. I replaced anyway. Not a fan of cutting them down. Went with Brembo's. $72 each

 

I'm the 2nd owner - got it 20k miles ago, brakes are squeaky but haven't been replaced

 

Just replaced mine at ~66K miles
I probably could have gone another 10k but didn't want to replace the rotors so I replaced the brake pads before any damage could occur.
Immediately after replacing pads I took the truck out to re-bed the pads. I used the 20-20-20 method.
So far, so good, no squeaks , shakes or shudders.

 

I just did the fronts @ 70k. I still had plenty left too

 

just changed the fronts @60K and roughly 30% left on them, I do a fair share of off roading and towing.

 

Started to change mine around 85k and put new ones back in box since there was about 1/3 of the pad left on the old ones. Got new tires yesterday at pretty much 100k now and checked out the pads and there is still too much left to toss them.

 

Never checked my brakes. I just upgraded to EBC pads and rotors at around 25k miles. Love 'em. What a great upgrade from stock. Worth every cent.

 

What's the 20-20-20 method?


Also, can this be done after 600 miles on a new truck or does it have to be done on new pads/rotors shoes/drums?

 

On my 2001 Taco I replaced the pads only at 74k, 133k and 210k before I got rid of it.

On my 3 year old 2011 4x4 my rotors are warped at 25k! WTH!

 

really? imo stock stops better and lasts longer...

i just got rid of my ebc pads and rotors and they where crap...never again will i get them...dont stop as well as i thought they would...and the pads died super quick.

 

anyone have any experience with wagner brakes?

i found a pair of super duty semi metalic wagner brakes on rock auto for 20 bucks including shipping

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=818807&cc=1375343

 

Doing my front brakes on a 2005 model 4.0 auto. Done 85K miles. Over 30% difference of braking between left front and right front. Obviously not on original pads. Bought this truck one year ago, braking performance always quite disappointing.
So tear those brakes down...
Brake calibers very rusty. Two pistons stuck, one on either side, some others not moving freely. To get the stuck ones out, I had to weld a short metal bar to them and use a hammer on the bar to get them out. Others would get out either by using the brake fluid force or by a hammer. Not uncommon with Toyota calibers and salty roads. Seems they don't pack them with enough "grease" at the factory. Had the calibers sand-blasted and I'm going to paint them.
Had the same problem with my Hilux many years ago. Also had to use a welder to get the old pistons out. No rust on them then, and no rust on them now. Those calibers are 19 years old. Well they don't make them like they used to....
To those of you who like downshifting, think about this: Brake pads are really easy to replace and cheep. Clutches are quite difficult to replace and expensive. So, don't use your clutch-disk as a brake.

 

i'll have to find old invoices for miles but i have 2005 trd sport prerunner quad cab bought new, I AM EXTREMELY hard on it, in sept. 2008 i did full replacement of all breaks and componants and again in i believe june or july of 2011, i am at about 130,000 miles at the moment.

cheers,
disco

 

Hey Mexican , so what ebc setup did you buy? I bought for my Altima the GD sport rotors and the ceramic brake pads and let me tell you I've had no regrets. Stops way better than stock.

I've been contemplating wether to buy them for the Taco but it makes no sense right now cause I only have 5k on my 13.

 

78K front and rear. Towing next year so will probably do the fronts. Using the manual gears to downshift sure saves on brakes. And sliiiiiiiide up to the vehicle in front at a stop.

There's a ski area here at 3500 ft. that I regularly go up and down from sea level. I can get all the way down with only touching my brakes once before one sharp corner, otherwise its third gear. As long as I leave enough room in front of me in case that person likes their brakes, then I have room to let it run on some parts. I've seen flames on vehicles in front and the smell by the time you get to the bottom is brutal. Makes for expensive transportation for skiing when you operate your vehicle like that!

 

61k miles & they still have plenty of life left.