How many miles since clutch ADM?

When i first got my truck i couldnt stop driving it for first few days. Haha! Was grinning the whole time.

 

Slightly off topic but would the ACM cause the clutch pedal to buzz when shifting at higher RPMs? I get a buzz in the gas pedal and clutch pedal if I let it get over 3000 RPM.

 

My pedals (and steering) have vibrations from a lot of things, the engine, the radio, the driveline. My feeling is that unless it is a major vibration or is backed up with some noise, that it just the nature of the beast.

 

Totally agree and most of em don't bother me, but this one concerned me as being clutch related. I can touch the clutch while driving and replicate the buzz if there is power to the drivetrain making me think something may be out of balance, etc (and I don't drive like that all the time...just note I can replicate that way). I also get a whistle of sorts at around 50 mph(not the differential groan...I have that but I have chalked it up as the nature of the beast) when coasting that I can make go away by pushing in the clutch pedal.

I have an appt with the dealer since I am only at 1300 miles but just figured I would ask since I expect to hear the words "normal" and then have to replace a clutch pack later.

 

If you have a good dealer, that is probably the best bet. The motor can feel rough at times. It is an odd beast with all the controls.

The whistling is interesting. Usually that is the holes in the suspension A arms, but obviously, that doesn't go away when disengaging the clutch.

I suppose the best that you can do is ask to be on the check ride with them?

 

100 percent...and maybe they will have another MT we can compare it too as well.

 

Definitely. Check their inventory before you head in.

Good luck!

 

Thanks for the tips.

 

Forgot to ask, what did you use to cap the (top?) line to the accumulator during this?

 

Leave it open. It will slow drip and keep air bubbles from rising up the line.

 

I used a bleeder cap laying around my shop. You can borrow one from any of your front calipers or rear brake cylinders.

I used a line crimp tool on the reservior hose to master. Mechanic tip- a pair of needle nose pliers wrapped in a shop rag will do. Just don't tighten the Sh*T! out of it

 

Ended up driving home from work in my socks today... actually didn't feel bad at all.
Could definitely feel what was going on.

 

LoL! I drive barefoot most all the time. Definitely the best feel.

 

I paid attention on the way home and did feel a hum / buzz in the clutch when shifting above 3k. It wasn't anything significant for me, but definitely more vibrations than lower in the revs.

 

Thank you...very nice of you to check that out on yours.

 

You're welcome.


It was easy enough.

 

I know this is an old thread but anyone that did the dremel mod add teflon tape to the adapters? They didn't have any on stock so I didn't add any but now I'm worried about proper sealing on the lines from the slave to the accumulator and from the master to the accumulator.

 

The threads do not seal the lines. It is the flare ends mating tightly with the brass inserts in the coupler and slave that create the seal.

In general, do not use teflon on flare fittings. I believe that teflon contaminates hydraulic fluids and can block sensitive return / compensation ports.

 

Thank you for the fast response. Just the reassurance I need to keep from tearing it apart again. I'm shocked how well it behaves with a "normal" clutch now.

 

You're welcome!

Yeah. It is surprising how much nicer it is.