How much flexibility do dealerships actually have with pricing?

Thought it was a porn site for a minute.

 

when the island you live on has a conglomerate that monopolizes all brand new toyota, chevrolet, subaru, mazda, hyundai sales, then youre really only at the mercy of how high or low they set their prices. the only way to cop a super deal is to buy off-island, buy used, or know someone lol.

 

Tonneaus are a factory option though, not a port/dealer option. I was told tonneaus could not be added after, which may be why doing so is so expensive.

 

One other point. We would even sell cars at a loss (not often, but sometimes) at the very end of the month or quarter because the spiffs the dealer got from the factory for meeting their quota would more than make up for it. ALWAYS, buy on or right before the last day of the month.

 

8% off is standard but 12-14% is possible. They can technically “loose” money on a truck and still profit thousands at the end of the day. Profit in the auto industry isn’t as straight forward as I bought for $10 and sell for $13 there for I make $3.

It’s more like I buy for $10 I sell for $11 I make $3. A lot of the profits comes from incentive and bonus programs from the manufacture. Additionally they make a lot on other added crap they try to sell you on during financing process.

 

Don't listen to these yay-hoos. You better get that True Coat or boy you'll be sorry, don'tcha know... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2LLB9CGfLs

 

They could let you drive one off the lot for free and still make money!

 

Probably depends on the dealership. They're masters of manipulating numbers to make things look a certain way in order to get the most money.

 

Your bed light/black out package cracks me up. Dealers in my area were trying force that BS on me. I went to a dealer in different state that listened to my needs. Recently put the bed lights and did not have to finance stuff I can do on my own.

 

2%.......nonsense.

That won't even cover the overhead of the fixed assets of the dealership.

Work with another salesmen or a different dealer.

 

When I bought my 2019 TRD sport it listed for 43 and change. I went in there with their online price and a discounted price through my work perks. I never showed the salesman either one and I walked out of there paying 36k. Better than both prices I have in hand. I just said to him I am not here to play games just give me your best price or I’m gonna walk. He dropped the price 7K. When I try to haggle for a little more he just flat out told me that was the best he was going to do.

Granted it was December 28 and I’m pretty sure they were trying to clear 2019 inventory. But I got a brand new truck pretty much optioned exactly the way I wanted it.

When we were wrapping up the salesman and I were talking and he was claiming he did not really make a lot of money per vehicle he sold, only like a couple hundred bucks. He made his money on the monthly bonus that was giving if he hit a certain number of vehicles sold each month. That was like four grand.

 

Yep, was told by my dealer if i wanted the tonneau cover when ordering the truck, i'd better tell them cause they can't add it on later at the dealership...must come on the truck from the manufacture.

 

I was amazed when I saw the price on the window sticker and then saw it was 50% cheaper to buy the bed lights from the parts dept. and install myself. It took all of 5 mins since it’s all plug and play on the 2020s.

 

I had a friend who worked at Infinity. I asked him once and he said generally dealers have an invoice price (what they actually pay for the vehicle). Then there is an MSRP price which is a suggested price that would make a nice profit for the dealer if someone was to pay full price. So most people should negotiate down to the invoice price. One key fact is almost all car makers will give the dealer a kickback (credit on each vehicle) that brings the price below invoice.

 

Really interesting watch on dealerships and how they're setup.

 

If they sold at invoice without any dealer cash or factory incentives (basically just the cost for them to acquire the vehicle), Toyota has a 2% dealer holdback that they pay on every vehicle sold. If he is trying to tell you that he can't give you a discount more that 2% off of MSRP, then he is lying to you.

 

Mmmk the sales guy is going to tell you the truth . They are all full of shit . They are trained to bone you .

 

He is a liar. I got 9% off my 2020 TRD Sport Premium 6MT and they cut the doc fee in half (Wouldn't budge) and threw in the Pro skid plate and weathertech floor mats at no additional cost. However with that being said, Post COVID is another story. Good luck getting a dealer to budge much with the lack of inventory.

 

On a related note I don’t understand why haggling on new cars is still a thing. I don’t haggle when I buy anything else in my life; I’ve never argued for hours with a Checker and a Manager at a grocery store over what I’ll pay for my groceries. If I can find the same items for a better price, I’ll give that place my business.

Now for a used car, I get it and generally haggle over any used vehicle I’ve ever purchased. In those cases it’s been based on facts such as the car needs new tires or needs minor repairs. For example I once bought a 4Runner which had a bad battery. I negotiated what the price of a replacement battery would cost me (which I was almost certain was all it needed) plus a little extra in case the reason why the battery was dead was because of a larger problem in the charging system. I got that 4Runner for the price I wanted, replaced the battery and it was an excellent vehicle which my former family drove for the next 10 years.

My Taco is my first new car or truck. I did all my shopping on-line, comparing options, packages and prices from Internet Sales departments at a couple of dealerships. I was prepared to go out of my area to get the truck and deal I wanted. In the end I bought mine from a dealership five minutes from my house. They had the exact truck I wanted, had a decent price which we negotiated lower via E-mail (sticker on my OR was 45 plus fee’s; I paid 40 OTD). I was in and out in 90 minutes. No BS, no getting angry and walking-out, no wasted afternoon or weekend. Granted I don’t have an awesome story about how much the dealership lost on my sale but I also didn’t waste time (which is more important to me). Mine was a cash sale with no trade-in so there was none of the financing or trade BS to deal with so that made things simpler.

 

I like the Carnax model but they are pricey. I fricking hate talking to pretty much anyone at a dealership.