How much lifting height does a jack need...

In regard to the cost of jack stands, I wouldn't be afraid of Harbor Freight for something relatively simple like that. If they're locked in properly, they can't really drop on their own. Maybe just go for a higher weight rating than what you really need.

 

This.

Anything solid, like jack stands, is okay from harbor freight

 

Only thing is I would NOT get under the truck with it held up only by the floor jack in the front. 5 years ago or so I had jacked my truck up and was fixing to slide a jack stand under the frame when it dropped QUICKLY and sprayed oil out the back. An O-ring finally gave up the ghost. I'm thankful I was not under there (I would never trust the jack anyway). When we replace a clutch on my son's hot-rod, we use ramps for the front, then jack the back up and put it on jack stands. Not afraid to go underneath to pull the tranny out like that.

 

You know, Harbor Freight DOES sell some crap. I bought some tubing wrenches that were hopeless (the kind you might use to loosen a brake line, etc.) They would spread easily.

But they also sell some pretty good stuff. I had an old Robinaire vacuum pump my dad used to use, and when it went out, I replaced it with a two-stage pump from Harbor freight. $150 bucks. Pulls a better vacuum than the Robinaire, and is still working well 3-4 years later. You will spend 2x or more with Robinair (and I do NOT know why this damned macbook keeps adding that "e" on to robin air". <sigh> or else inserting a space... )

I bought a REALLY nice aluminum 3 ton "racing floor jack" whatever that means. "rapid pump" to lift the pad quickly. I have a solid 6x6x6 block of pressure-treated wood when I need a longer travel (works just fine as is for my prerunner, no block needed).

If you are selective, they have some good stuff. Just keep eyes open.

 

Sub'd to this thread. I need to rotate my tires. So the front jack location is that bump (picture on previous page) but the rear point is just the rear differential? And yes or no on using jack stands on the rear axle. Jack stands near the center or outer part closer to the wheels? Someone mentioned not to put jack stands under the rear axle because of bending it.

 

I don't put the jack under the shock mounts.

I put them under the - actually, its the Ubolt plate - that sits under the axle tube.


And for the front...I jack here:

 

Yeah a lot of people in the longtravel world use harbor freight jacks, I spent $100 on 12ton jackstands from them and I dont have to be worried about the truck dropping anymore, definitely worth it. You could probably get away with 6ton too but its nice having 12 ton for anything else you'll ever need. Definitely dont trust just your floorjack to raise the truck while you're under it, not very safe.

 

I buy a lot of the tools that I abuse, wear out, or lose anyway there. Screw drivers, pliers (though their locking ones are no good), etc. No sense spending big bucks on that sort of stuff when I break or lose even the high quality ones. I also have a standing tool chest that I don't think you could beat for the price.

Some of it is well built. I have a tie rod removal tool from them that seems like it's very good quality. Didn't want an expensive one since I'll almost never need it, but I doubt I'll ever have to replace this one. A coworker gave me a chop saw that he replaced with a larger one, too. Said he bought it from them a very long time ago and used it heavily and it still works great.

 

Imagine what happens if you make the top of your jack stand about an inch longer, so that when it goes into that sort of "recess" it contacts on both ends. Might be easier than my neighbor's to remove as his hit a bind along the sides, much more metal-to-metal contact. Was not so interested in being UNDER the truck while we were trying to get the jack stands unstuck. Even though I brought mine over to serve as a backup.

But yes, if your jack stand is the right size, that is the perfect place, as you use the thickness of that plate PLUS the thickness (not so much) of the axle tube. The tube walls are not intended to hold a lot of weight concentrated in one spot, they are basically an enclosed I-beam that carries a LOT of weight, but along the outside, compression on one side, tension on the other. I have certainly seen them dimple significantly, although I have never seen anyone stupid enough to dimple them enough to make 'em actually contact the axle. I would assume that would provide endless entertainment inside the truck with the noise it would produce.

BTW I have ALWAYS taken the time to lower a vehicle S-L-O-W-L-Y onto the jack stands. I think my neighbor is a "screw it and release it" type.

 

Family member bought what I consider to be a REALLY nice mitre saw. Laser guide included. And it seems absolutely rock-solid, with no slop anywhere, etc. But their wrenches REALLY suck. Must say also that Craftsman is hard to beat. I have taken things back over the years and they have never questioned me. Use a screwdriver like a chisel and break the end? No problem. Even bought a 3/4" real rubber water hose. Wife backed over the male end and turned it into an oval, not a problem unless you want to screw a nozzle on it. They took it back and replaced it with no quibbles.

But Harbor Freight has 'em beat BADLY on prices, when you can pick out the good stuff.

 

Thanks Janster really appreciate all the help!

 

I love harbor freight for stuff that need to last only a few months. But I hear there jack's and jack stands are pretty good for the money. Thinking about picking up this one.

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I can highly recommend their 3 ton "aluminum racing jack with rapid jack". My old craftsman took a zillion pumps to get the jack to contact the vehicle. This thing takes one. And jacking my Tacoma is a one-hand operation.