How much over GVWR is too much for hauling?

I have a '14 regular cab with no mods. The GVWR listed is 5,100 lbs.

The TARE recorded at my local quarry is 4,080 lbs (my body weight included).
Unfortunately, the workers there are a pain to deal with so they estimate and dump the payload onto my bed, then send me on my way.
It's a hassle trying to back-track to the aggregate site to reduce load.

The quarry is 5 miles from my house. The roads going there are paved and in good shape. There are some moderate hills, nothing crazy.
I rarely haul, so this isn't a regular occurrence for the vehicle.

Given my situation, what's a reasonable amount to haul?

I did haul 1,520 lbs today (5,600 GVWR; 500 lbs/ 10% over) and was white-knuckle driving the entire way home. Was that entirely too much to haul? Or am I being ridiculous?

 

There's a reason 3/4 ton trucks have full floating rear axles, large brakes, and a lot more than 3 spring leafs. Some will tell you it's OK. Just don't do it often. My opinion is that you are abusing the truck and playing outside the safe driving zone.

 

^ I agree - safest to take it down a notch to within spec and as @Muddinfun mentioned, I'd worry about the brakes and relatively weak leafs for what you are hauling. Besides, taking more trips just gives you an excuse to "do more truck stuff."

 

People have done worse, I wouldn't do it again. Perhaps rent an F150 or borrow a bigger truck if you're hauling serious loads. You could also rent a small trailer.

 

Mine is going to haul what ever I put in it or I will mod it and if that dont work I'll get rid of it.

 

In the long run you will feel better if you get your gravel delivered and spread by dump truck, particularly since you live that close to the quarry. You will always be overweighted. It would only take one extra heavy load to be one too much.

 

How fast are you driving? The GVWR is limited by handling performance. Exceed it and the stability control systems can't prevent the truck from losing control at the corning limits.

 

No more than 40 MPH.
15-25 MPH around corners.

Honestly, the handling didn't really feel much different with the overweight load. Was a pretty smooth ride.

 

This is what they make trailers for. Seriously, like stated 1500lbs of shit in the bed is tough on components, especially the rear axle. Yes it can probably handle it, but if you have ever looked underneath a PROPER 3/4 ton or 1ton truck and looked at how HUUUUGE the rear axle is compared to our tacomas you would quickly stop doing what you are doing.

Rent a trailer and save your truck.

 

I bought a 95 F350 to haul big loads.
even towing 11k i get 14 MPG

 

Get a trailer.
Shift the abuse to the trailer, and don't get stone chips.

 

http://www.titantrailer.com/5x8-mini-dump-trailers.cfm
This would be worth your time IMHO.

 

I occasionally do 2000lbs of coal for twenty miles. I wouldn't be concerned.

 

Dump trailers are very handy. Sometimes you can rent one. I had a 5 ton twin axle Bri-Mar dump that I pulled with a Duramax on a farm. There is a tendency to overload these. The OP can see if he can rent one and how it tows loaded. Given the cost of even a single axle dump and proper hitch, wiring and brake controller, since the OP just needs to haul gravel occasionally, better to get it delivered.

 

The GVWR is a rating that gives full performance (merging on highways in reasonable time, high-speed slalom, etc.). At the lower speeds you stated it will be fine. Back when the standards were more lenient, much smaller trucks were rated for much higher payload. I would expect your truck's driveline to be stronger than 1980s Toyota mini-truck's.

 

As much as I would love to do it, buying or renting a trailer isn't practical for my purposes.

Paying someone to deliver aggregate is the best solution but it is difficult finding someone to do the job. And keeping on top of them is even worse.
Most quarries around the area have a 5 ton minimum for delivery and will show up with a tri axle, ready to destroy my yard.

 

If you are going to do it a lot get some cheater springs.

 

Do as @Gregoryk recommended and reinforce the suspension, so the rear end doesn't sag as much when you put the load on. Firestone airbags, Timbren or Sumo bumpstops (effectively acting as secondary springs) are popular options.

 

I learned the hard way in my 2001 ram 1500. Put a pallet of pavers in the 8' bed well that was no issue. Made it about 2.5 miles and all my lugs snapped on the drivers side rear axle. i wouldn't attempt that again destroyed my rim, ripped off my fender flare, and destroyed the drum brake. NOT FUN

 

I hate these factory springs. Even with sumo springs I get a little paranoid when they arch the other way.