How much power would you run to a JL 13W7

well crap now i have to look into it. they're in the original boxes in my garage, and i have no idea how much they go for now.

edit: holy shit these are still crazy expensive used.

 

Yea man W7’s are expensive and kinda not worth buying used unless someone is selling them for a good deal and you know they haven’t been abused

 

what's a good deal? mine haven't been abused at all. i never ran them hard, the install didn't even have enough deadening, they would have vibed the car apart. i never actually wanted to sell them thinking one day blah blah blah... but there's just nowhere to install them.

 

What version are they? Audio stuff is really weird. You kinda have to just wait for the right person to come along needing it to get what you want for it

 

i'm pretty sure these are the orginals, V1 i guess. they are probably about 15 years old, but were only run for 2.5 years in that car and were only installed that one time. i inspected them recently when i was reorganizing my garage and they looked good as new mounted on the wood panel in the original box.

all this is another reason i never tried to sell them. so meh, here they sit.

 

I have two kenwood 12’s (nothing fancy) in a box that I pulled from my vehicle in high school. It’s currently part of my garage stereo for when I’m washing the vehicles in the driveway or doing a project. Being powered by an alpine 1000w amp. Just enough to piss the neighbors off if I want to

 

i have considered making a home subwoofer but I'd be fighting a wife and 3 little kids. still may do it just to build something different. I'm usually building or restoring furniture or similar. but both my vehicles just can't handle the size. wife has an suv but we use every bit of it.

 

I got a little scared when I looked at the JL output ranges, and saw that bigass "WARRANTY VOID" label at anything over 1500 watts. For the price of the sub, I didn't want to take a hit if something failed in the next few months. That said, my shop agrees with you about slightly over-delivering in terms of the amp power to the sub. Unfortunately, I am stuck with at least one RD1500/1, because I ordered already and the dealer I got it from doesn't do refunds. Oh well, we'll see how it goes!

 

^^Okay this post nailed it better than my rambling.

Basically, not being a dick, but if you don’t know what amp to run with a w7, you are in over your head buying that sub because like I said - it’s a different kind of animal. Think of it like a projector instead of a TV - you are going to have to put a whole lot more money into the rest of the setup if you ever want to be happy with how it performs.

Honestly a JL W3 sub with a correctly sized amp is more than enough to satisfy most people.

 

You can’t go wrong with that amp - so I wouldn’t sweat that purchase. Also - making a home sub with a car audio amp is the stuff that makes me smile because those things almost always turn out amazing since you aren’t held back by fitment/size/installation issues like in a vehicle.

 

Hahaha a single W3 would satisfy anyone who isn’t into Audio. Anyone into it probably wouldn’t. I have two 13TW5 and sometimes I feel I would like more but also depends on how much of the rest of your system is on par too. I had two W1’s on just some cheap speakers and it seemed like hella bass until I got some very legit mids and tweeters

 

I've got quite a bit of cheddar dumped into this system. Roughly a 3rd of what I paid for the truck, and I bought the truck new last September. It was kinda an accident I ended up with this high of a price tag, I just let myself keep agreeing to suggestions until I was like "well shit, what's another $1500 for a sub at this point...?"

The only thing I didn't want to do was power it past the recommended RMS, since all the JL guys suggest 1K to 1.2K RMS. I don't know why, but the rest of the world is like "The JL engineers are dumbasses, put 2K minimum into that sub". Who should I believe?! I think I'll resign to listening to the manufacturer, if for no other reason than to not void my warranty on the sub.

 

I like the size reqs for the 13TW5, but I really only want my main subs for <33hz and SPL. I didn't know if the 13TW5 had the extension to pull that off. They give you a good sustained hit?

 

Oh yea they do. They aren’t W7 levels but if your familiar with JL it’s in between the W3 and W6 is where the TW5 stands

 

My TW5’s hit lower than my old Image Dynamics 10IDQ’s which surprised me. These thin subs have really come along way

 

If u have the ae version the 13.5 w7ae is 1500 watts rms optimal is 1000 watts, unless u run 1000 watts u will loose performance in being said any thing below 1000 watts or any thing above 1500 watts with to much distortion will fry the coils or seize the coils with out distortion u just loose performance or over excursion the woofer with to much power and void warranty. The rd 1500 will not meet optimum power so it is not the best amp for the performance u paid for due to the ohm laws. The best match for Any w7 13 or 12 ar is the slash 1200 and the HD 1200 all day long for reason from a to z