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How much pressure does this Nut have when truck is on the ground?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by trexTRD, Oct 7, 2014.

  1. Oct 7, 2014 at 9:08 PM
    #41
    VE7OSR

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    So that's how the nut face got rounded!
     
  2. Oct 7, 2014 at 9:11 PM
    #42
    bullaculla

    bullaculla IKA fabrications

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    Da big big island!
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    You could try removing it with a pipe wrench or vice grips if its rounded. I'd replace it now since it will be much harder down the road when shit starts to rust.
    And I also have an expensive 250 ft lb torque wrench and torque all critical suspension components and lug nuts.
    All info was found here on TW :thumbsup:
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2014
  3. Oct 7, 2014 at 9:59 PM
    #43
    KenLyns

    KenLyns 8.75" Third Member

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    So the nut is rounded off, not stripped. This is easier to deal with.

    ^I would replace the nut for this reason. The corrosion protection on the Toyota OEM nut is already pretty poor. In fact, it's better if you go to Fastenal and buy a bright zinc-plated slotted nut. I did just that when I had to disconnect my outer tie rod to replace a coil spring.

    Sears, Harborfreight, etc. also sell extractor sockets which can be used to remove the rounded nut if a pipe wrench doesn't work.
     
  4. Oct 8, 2014 at 8:17 AM
    #44
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Just tell me you don't rebuild engines, it's one thing to be off a few lbs. on a lug nut & quite another when setting torque to main or rod bearing, or any torquing involving plasti-gauge..
     
  5. Oct 8, 2014 at 11:29 AM
    #45
    TrdSurgie

    TrdSurgie revised

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    I didnt think we were talking about engines.:rolleyes:
     
  6. Oct 8, 2014 at 11:30 AM
    #46
    TrdSurgie

    TrdSurgie revised

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    suck it. :cool: I told him to take care of it while it was already in the shop.
     
  7. Oct 8, 2014 at 3:00 PM
    #47
    Kolunatic

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  8. Oct 8, 2014 at 4:19 PM
    #48
    VE7OSR

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    so much derpness, so little torque wrenchness.
     
  9. Oct 8, 2014 at 4:39 PM
    #49
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    Ball joints tie rod ends etc have a Morse taper they bind up in the steering parts when tightened if the flats on the nut are damaged and it's tight it won't come apart. Don't relay on a cotter pin to hold any thing other than keeping a nut from turning.
     
  10. Oct 8, 2014 at 4:56 PM
    #50
    bullaculla

    bullaculla IKA fabrications

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    :confused:
    umm, what makes you think its a morse taper? How do you know its not a Jacobs taper? Or a brown and sharpe taper?
    I really don't think ball joints have anything to do with machine tapers.
     
  11. Oct 8, 2014 at 7:55 PM
    #51
    Jimmyh

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    I also know a lot of people that use the " two grunts and a fart method of torque " such as yourself. [​IMG]
     
  12. Oct 8, 2014 at 7:59 PM
    #52
    bullaculla

    bullaculla IKA fabrications

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    :rofl: never heard of that technique before!
     
  13. Oct 8, 2014 at 8:09 PM
    #53
    VE7OSR

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    It becomes a shart at > 230 ft-lb
     
  14. Oct 8, 2014 at 8:10 PM
    #54
    mutilatedjak

    mutilatedjak n00b waffle

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    Nothing really constructive to contribute besides saying you should probably fix this.

    But damn...... Get the units right. Pressure(stress) and torque are two different things.
     
  15. Oct 8, 2014 at 10:05 PM
    #55
    Jimmyh

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    And a full blow sh1t at 275 ft-lbs! [​IMG]
     
  16. Oct 9, 2014 at 4:55 AM
    #56
    maineah

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    I don't any more than you do people get confused when they use US standard wrenches on metric nuts he said the flats were rounded. I do not think it should be left like that because you just don't know but just replacing the nut is a simple project.
     
  17. Oct 9, 2014 at 5:05 AM
    #57
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    OK it's a taper matter whose taper it is it's a tapered fit meant to stay in place when tightened. Designed not to slip with rotational force or fall out kind of like the head of a common drill press.
     

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