How much sound deadening and proofing material do I need?

Yeah makes sense. That's also why I like to fly direct, one up one down, no connections, no extra chances to die in a fiery crash.

 

I didn't find many good options for mass load vinyl either.

I used Noico red 315 mil everywhere after the deadener. Floor, back panel, doors. Same will go in the headliner/roof. I believe in full coverage, once I have everything apart I'm not going half way. Maybe it's overkill, maybe it's not, works for me.

 

I did Noico Black 80mil 36sqft for the doors and rear wall, at 90% coverage.
Noico's CCF 150/170/315mil adheres better to the aluminium top of the deadener.
Noico Reg. 80mil 36sqft for headliner and floor

MLV is what I am planning to do next.
Planning for 40sqft, to cover:
All four doors
Rear wall
Rear flooring

1lb MLV @40sqft is around $100

I can't really do MLV in the front anymore,
cause I used 315mil CCF for the front flooring.
Adding MLV there would make the carpet way too thick.

If I have a lot left over, I'll throw it into the hood or just toss it into the bed.

 

I used 5 bulk kits 36sqft per pack I used 3 kits of ballistic competition grade! Then two bulk packs of sounds skin pro(butyl,foam,and aluminum) and two rolls of 3/4 inch of ballistic sound dampening foam on headliner/floor I went extremely overboard!

 

P

 

H

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/audio-upgrade-audiophile-grade.562185/page-3#post-18497539

 

When you say Noico CCF, are you referring to their red option? Kinda makes me want to cancel my neoprene order. It's way cheaper but I don't know if it has good thermal barrier properties.

The intent of using red on the ceiling was because SDS recommends hydrophobic melamine foam and I couldn't find any cheap options. Figured it'd do well enough.

 

Yes, Noico red 150/315 and discontinued Noico green 170 are CCF.

I do not thInk you will need neoprene.

Usual set up is to have CLD, then a foam for thermal/noise absorption/decoupling (CCF/HMF), last is MLV for noise blocking

CCF is good as a thermal insulator at 1/8" or 1/4" thickness.
CCF does little to absorb or block noise when compared to open cell foams.
Best as a decoupler and thermal insulator, with some low frequency noise blocking.

HMF is better, since it have the benefit of Open Cell Foam + being water resistant.

HMF can absorb noise, thermal insulate and decouple.
It is usually thicker though, so install is not as simple.

CCF is cheaper but less "features" and is typicall enough for most people.

You can also option out a reflective thermal jute if money is irrelevant...
But that is serious overkill.

 

Exactly! A little goes a long way and most people waste a ton of deadener when they could have used half as much. I bought a 36 sq ft box and easily did the back wall and doors of my access cab.

 

I bought 1/16 neoprene so I could sandwich the MLV. Now I think I'll just cough up a little more but use 315 red instead. Off to see if I can still cancel.

 

It really depends on your end goal! For vibration and rattles yes 50% percent coverage will be sufficient! But if you are trying to get rid of road noise you can’t get away with 50% coverage! You also need to use more then regular sound dampening you need ccf or Mlv and at least 100percent coverage and yes I’m a professional installer! Who builds sq systems!

 

Neoprene is also a CCF, but at 1/16 it is mainly just a decoupler for the MLV.

Becareful,
Red 315mil is closer to 1/3", so it is pretty thick.
If you put that on the floor with MLV, you might have a hard time putting the carpet back together.
Available in 20sqft and 9.5sqft

Red 150mil is there, which is closer to 1/6" and still give room for the MLV fit snug.
Available only in 36sqft

You can do a mix, 315mil for headliner and rear wall
and Neoprene CCF for the floor.
MLV on the rear wall and floor.

 

Really wishing I did this might have to go back into my door panel and do this! thanks for the pictures.

 

That sounds like a good call. 150 for the doors as well, MLV on top?

 

Thanks for so many detailed posts. Some questions:

1. Do you feel it was worth the time, effort and expense? The windows seems to be the noisiest thing and we can't sound dampen them.
2. Is the headliner as simple as remove/unscrew the obstructions and drop down then reverse?

Thanks in advance.

 

It was worth it! I have pro comp mud terrain and I can barely hear them not to mention that my speakers sound amazing! inside the cabin! I did three layers throughout the entire car headliner,floor,doors,back wall, firewall(had to remove the entire dash) I barely was able to put the factory carpet back on! Headliner is pretty easy just remove pillars and pop it down.

 

Wow impressive and thank you - but I know I won't remove the dash!

 

Removing the dash sounds like an absolute pain. Exponentially more so than the headliner. But I can't help but want to do things once and do things right...good thing I have a garage big enough to fit the truck.