How much sound deadening and proofing material do I need?

On the drivers side you can reach most of the way behind the dash, on the passenger side you just have to deal with the heater box, but you could just sound deaden the outside of that, should drop some of the vibration coming from that too.

 

for sure. I should have prefaced that with “the majority of people” like the guys on TacomaWorld doing the Kicker speaker upgrade and a Key amp. No need to really cover every single square inch of metal with sound deadening.

 

Essentials lol

 

Yup... there it is. Curious what you think of the sound after running your speakers for awhile.

 

I have actually never seen anyone put MLV on the headliner.
One it is heavy, and two, it does not have an adhesive layer.
MLV can be done hanging on vertical surfaces, attached by velcro or using OEM clips.
Then for the floor, you can just lay it down.

 

As long as you're not in a boat, no problem going overboard!

 

By top, I meant after the 150 for the doors though you've preemptively answered a question I'm sure I would've had about the roof.

So, Noico black at 25% minimum coverage all around. Rear wall and headliner are 315 mil. Doors are 150 and MLV. Floor is the neoprene and MLV. Finally, MLV also on the rear wall. It took me an embarrassing amount of time to look at the handful of posts to put that together. I think I broke my last two brain bytes.

 

Oh sorry did not realize you meant on top for the door.

Sounds good.

 

This answered so many questions I had. I can't thank everyone enough for all the input. I was only going to do my doors and back wall. But decided to add the floor and head liner as well. Decided on going with Noico 80 mil sound deadening mat, with the Noico red 315mil. I still have a few questions though.

1. On the doors, I know to do both layers on the inside skin, but what about where the vapor barrier is? The outside skin so to speak. Should I do both layers? Or just the sound deadening? What does everyone do with the vapor barrier after using the sound deadening? Is the Noico sufficient?

2. I want to do the head liner as well. After putting on the 80mil sound deadening, Should I use the 315mil red Noico, or is it too thick and heavy and will eventually come off? Or am I safe?

 

1) It would be up to personal taste really.
Most do both.
And most vibrations some from the outer skin.
Personally, I would do both, since I am in the door anyways.
And since I am did CLD, CCF and will be doing MLV, I went with 90% coverage.
Don't want to regret later, and have to rip off the CCF to get to the CLD layer.

Regarding vapor barrier.
Most would remove it. Others would put it back.
If you are only doing one layer (CLD), then you should keep the vapor barrier.
But if you are doing multi-layer (CLD+CCF+MLV), then keeping it is up to you.

Personally, I still have my vapor barrier and is sandwich'd between my CLD and CCF.
Not ideal for many, but I had the idea that the seal from the vapor barrier helps in making the door an air box for the speakers.

2) Lots of space in the headliner for 315mil.

You can see one dangling on the left of the picture.

While I forgot to take a picture of the final product, the open spaces is the perfect depth for the 315mil ccf.
Filling them up with 315mil would actually make the headliner look like one big flat roofing.

Also 315mil is not heavy at all, these foams are suprisingly light. Plus they come with heavy duty adhesive, that is more like glue.
Becareful with laying them down, cause the strong adhesive will cause the foam to tear... I have wasted a couple and shed tears as I tried to scrape them off...

 

I used 72 sqft for inner outer shell of doors and behind back seat

 

72sqft!?
I used only 36sqft and I was still able to get 90% coverage for doors (inner/outer) and the rear wall.

When I kind of think about it,
I tried to stretch the use of the material as much as possible.
Precise cuts, holes/gaskets not covered, zero material overlap, repurpose waste cuts into other areas, etc.

 

Certain songs was making me put my knee against the door... If it is annoying me now the amp install next week is only going to make it worse so problem solved.

 

I did the same thing, but I made sure I sealed all the edges where 2 panels are plastic welded together.

 

Probably a little lower but no way i coulda done it with 32

 

What do these do exactly?

 

They direct the sound into the cab.

 

Anyone know of a video walk through on how to drop the headliner? I can't seem to find one on YouTube

 

Be sure to disconnect your battery.

The drop down is similar to a 2nd gen.

• Remove the 2 screws on each of the vanity mirrors (2).The vanity mirrors are held in my a metal tab/clip, just give it strong short tug. Becareful since thing you can damage the harness.
• Remove the vanity mirror's support clip by twisting counterclockwise and pull.
• Remove the overhead unit, just tug and it pops right off, release harness.
• Remove entire dome light, and just let it dangle. So you can easily feed it through the hole later.
• Remove rear grab handles (2), might need a pry tool to remove the clip covers, then a needle nose plier to compress the metal clips.
• Remove rear hanger clips, same removal process as grab handles.

Now remove A and B pillars.
In the driver side A pillar, one of the wires is taped to the headliner, cut or remove.
C Pillar can stay intact, as you can slide the headliner in and out of it.

After A and B is removed, pull down from the front to release the headliner.
Lots of wires hot glued to the headliner, just pull them out as you slowly drop the headliner.
Longest is on the passenger side, that travels all the way to the rear of the cab.
The dome light's wire goes under a foam, I just slowly fed the dome light assembly under the foam to get it free from the headliner.

Also might want to remove the rearview mirror, the headliner can get stuck on it without you noticing and damage somethIng.

Even if you take it slowly, the headliner can be dropped in 30min to an hour.

 

Curious to hear opinions on MLV options:

https://www.tmsoundproofing.com/1-LB-Mass-Loaded-Vinyl.html

https://isostore.com/totalmass-mlv-barrier-1-pound-2-pound.html

https://acousticalsolutions.com/product/audioseal-sound-barrier/

https://www.soundaway.com/mass-loaded-vinyl-MLV-1-p/11002.htm

The first one is the most expensive but comes highly rated (I found it on here in another thread) and is confirmed to be made of virgin material. It's also on Amazon so you can get those juicy 5% points.

The other choices are cheaper by the sq ft but none of them specify if they are made of virgin or recycled material.

I found these on page 1 of Google. There are other options but they were much more expensive.