How often you change the air filter?

CFM probably.

 

Once a year typically. It doesn't get horribly dirty even after that long, I just replace it because it's a good idea being it's the most important filter in your car.

 

Whenever a K&N discussion is brought up...
It most always conjures up misleading information.
As the K&N drop in element is often compared against other elements unfairly.

Beisdes the lesser suface area...
The K&N drop in AB element has fewer holes per sq. inch
and those holes in the pleats are larger then many others.
Thus the finger pointing claim of allowing in more dirt.

I would not use the K&N drop in AB element... ever
and instead would stick with the stock fuzzy element/AB.

I currently use an K&N fipk, oiled, cone element...
which has more holes (smaller) per sq. inch in the elements pleats
then does the K&N drop in element and some others.

If measuring surface area of the K&N fipk cone element
if will be known that it has more holes (tho smaller)
then many other cone type filter elements.
And oiling the pleats reduces that hole size slightly more.

I doubt my K&N's fipk element lets in more dirt
then the other popular (similar) dry cone filter elements.
As it really comes down to surface area and how many holes
and what size diameter those are per sq. inch.
(oiled is better then not oiled IMO)

But haters are gonna hate no matter.

I have only changed my K&N's fipk element once. (around 150K)
And that was because the cone element began to dry rot a little
from getting moisture dripped on it and that wicked to the element's underside.
Only issue I've ever had with it.

K&N sent me a new replacement fipk element (no cost to me)
because of my included K&N 1 million mile LLW.
Basically it's forever if ya kept your receipt (and K&N is still in business).
I didn't have my original receipt... but a picture was proof enough for K&N.

I've never had any over oiling issue using my K&N fipk cone element...
Because it is farther away from the MAF sensor...
and is not a direct flow.

The inside of my intake's tube has always been just as clean
as it was when using my stock fuzzy/AB.
Not only the intake tubes interior... but the MAF sensor as well.

I tested both my K&N fipk and stock fuzzy/AB in my own real world comparison.
Super talc (powder) here in the dry dusty southwest.
Neither the K&N fipk nor the stock fuzzy/AB let in any more dirt then the other.
Microscopically maybe... but not visual to the eye.

Did I do an oil analisis to confirm my belief...
No... just changed to fresh motor oil instead.

Granted... I run a pre-filter on my K&N fipk element
mostly to keep the element's pleats cleaner for the whole weekend off road.
So basically I pull off the pre-filter sock and shake that out after a days use...
and the elements pleats will remain clean/ready for another days use.

One thing recommend for any exposed filter element is to utilize a pre-filter sock
to keep the element from becoming clogged in between cleanings /or re-oiling.
Clogging of the filter element can be just as fubar as letting too much pass thru.

I'm too cheap to pay for K&N's pre-filter sock(boot).
So instead... I use some women's nylons and cut the foot off.
This goes over the freshly oiled fipk cone element and works just as good
but costs way less. (especially if you might have a female mate)
Yes I lightly oil the pre-filter nylon material a little bit too.

On the trail... I shake the pre-filter sock out on occasion... re-install and keep on rolling.
And I'd recommend using a pre-filter on a dry filter element as well.

I did have a cel come on once because the nylons pre-filter became clogged
and starved the intakes of air flow.
But shook out the nylon pre-filter... reset the cel
and all was good.

To each their own... but I really value my K&N fipk
and haven't spent a dime on air filters since 2000.
My 5vze runs as good as it did when new...
and my 5vze is as clean internally as is any other 5vze.

Even tho' the haters will wish to argue no matter.

Regardless...
changing your motor oil regularily and on schedule is important...
maybe even with fewer miles on the odo... if one goes off road alot.
I habitually change my oil every 5000K.
And I use Mobile 1 or other similar synthetic every change.

Obviously a poor or leaking air filter element/intake is not good.
But regular oil changes will allow for better lubrication
and helps remove any dirt suspended in the oil.
If your oil filter works decently... it should protect the engine
from contaminations suspended in the motor oil.

I use a mobile 1 oil filter for oil filtration.

So maintainance is very important...
Both the air intake element and the motor oil
will do better if those are changed /or cleaned more often.

I still have and use my stock fuzzy/AB
on trails I know will see more water crossings.
Because the open fipk element is more susceptible
to water intrusion.

But on the dry dusty trails here in the SW
My K&N fipk and pre-filter sock does as good as any other.
Regardless of who's making a buck off ya.

I've been doing this for a long time now (2000)...
never found something superior that enticed me to make a change.

btw... the K&N fipk element shoud not be cleaned just because it looks dirty.
It actually filters better if left somewhat dirty...
as that will decrease the element's pleat hole sizing a little bit.
and oiling the element properly increases filtration even better.

Yep... there's a reason it sports oil on the pleats.

In other words... too clean... means reduced filtration.


Here's some pics of my fipk's pre-filter sock...
and how dirty that can become...
and how clean the pleats are inderneath it when it's removed.

 

Air filter is changed when it looks dirty. My last 3.4 Tacoma filter was only changed once in 300,000 miles.

If you change your oil regular, what can be damaged? Air goes in, mixed with gas, combusts, and is sent out the tail pipe.

As long as air filter is not physically blocked, no real advantage of changing it.

The engine will automatically adjust fuel delivery on how much air is available.

 

Me too

Toyota or Wix......for oil and air filter.

 

really ? 300K on a single air filter ?

thankfully I'm not buying yer used vehicles.

 

So it would also figure just change oil filters no need to ever change oil just add as needed