How to: AC outlet in cab + 400 Watt Anytime Mod 2nd gen

Thanks for the write up.

I ordered a few of these off mouser: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc.../03virtualkey56210000virtualkey562-738W-X2/03

4.99 economy shipping -- It's good to get other odds and ends so you're not paying 5$ for 2$ in parts. Still the best deal I could find.

 

@adriancast Maybe you could add this to the OP for anything 3rd gen guys looking. It is different.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-400w-anytime-mod-3rd-gen.436831/#post-12651558

 

how did you wire the led light bar switch? i have two of those switches, one for my cubes wired to my fog light switch, and one for my light bar that currently wired to the stock switch it comes with.

 

I meant to put it on the opposite side of the cup holder but it works great.

 

I put mine there:



It's out of a F150 and the lid flips up

 

I would like to thank all who have posted to this thread. I did both mods this afternoon and it works fine. You do not have to take off the knob, or pull the drivers seat although it probably would be easier. You are able to unplug the wiring harness from the drivers side, and this will give you more slack. You can also unclip it just behind the shifter (auto) and this will give you a little more. Since I leave the seats down to accommodate our young girl ( Abby the Lab), I chose to place the double plug on the side of the console forward of the passenger seat and shifter because you cannot use the rear position with the seats folded down. This was a relatively easy mod (s). Took about an hour for both. with the new Samsung S7 phones and the "rapid" charger, I needed 110 in the cab or wait 6 hrs for a charge. Not really sure I will need the 400 watts all the time, but I had it open. What could it hurt??

 

I think I missed cutting and capping the violet and white wire. Is the violet and white wire a speed sensor wire? I have a manual and currently 400watts is available after I depress the clutch, but when the truck starts to move it goes back to 100watts.

Thanks

 

Incase anyone else has the same problem I did, it's the violet wire that I missed cutting and capping. It must be the speed sensor wire.

 

I finally had the guts to cut into my un-blemished truck today and installed a power outlet behind the console. Thanks to all who contributed to this mod

 

Does anybody know if there are any always on 12v wires anywhere near the console that a guy could connect to for a phone charger?

 

Uh... You found the thread, now do you need the audio book version?

 

Neither of the previously provided links appear to go anywhere useful (anymore), and this thread relates to the 120V inverters with which our trucks are equipped. I recommend you take a look at https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/always-on-power-outlet-relay-modified.407458/ (paying attention to posts 1, 31, and 42) and post questions you have in that thread.

 

Thanks to the OP and everyone else who posted instructions and photos for this mod. I liked the idea of using a connector to make removing the center console in the future a bit easier. I ended up using a black dual AC outlet with integrated 4A total USB ports. The mod took me about four hours to complete as I really took my time. I'll probably end up painting the two outlet screws black so it better matches the color of the center console.

 

Where did you get the pigtail / plug for this socket?

 

As far as i remember it got this one.
http://oemfordparts.jackyjones.com/oe-ford/3u2z14s411jbb


Honestly, it will be much cheaper not to use one at all. you can just get those flat connector things and then put some hot glue or epoxy to keep them from ever coming off

 

Pull off the nylon colored insulator, crimp with tool designed for non-insulated crimps, and cover with adhesive lined heats shrink at least triple the length of the former insulated nylon you removed. Much firmer crimp, using the crimp for non insulated connectors, moisture protection, and strain relief with the heat shrink. Also try and use Tin plated stranded wire. Better corrosion protection than bare just copper.

added some examples here:

$35 Klein Tools 1006 Cutting / Crimping Tool, Made in USA, Crimps 10 to 22 AWG Solderless Terminals and Connectors, with Wire Cutter in Tapered Nose

crimp tool

heatshrink 3:1 heavy wall, adhesive lined.


wire tinned copper strands, rated to 600V (means it has a thicker insulation)

wire thin insulation (50V) but hi heat rated, and extremely tough insulation TXL
available in tinned copper or bare copper stranded. Need to check with supplier to ensure you are getting tinned copper strands.

 

Well this seems perfect for this mod with closing lid and all. Took it out of a new gate operator. If i get another i will post it here.

 

Not sure where to post this question, searched for a while and did not find my answer.

If I modified the inverter switch to be powered from a 12v source that is not relayed by the ignition, would this allow me to power on/off the inverter with the switch no matter what position the ignition is in (key in/out)? Basically I want to be able to turn on/off the inverter separately from the ignition.

 

1- The inverter power relay needs an IGN source to function since the inverter provides the ground to this relay.
2- The inverter receives an "ON" (Speed) signal to change the from 400 to 100. (Violet with White tracer wire)
3- The inverter also receives an "Available" cue from the starting fuse (vehicle is not in movement and transmission is in neutral/park)[Violet wire]

I'd say add an aftermarket one...less hassle. Just leave it on

 

Where were the bullet splices used that the OP mentioned? Also, any other connecters that would make this instal clean and simple? What about an end for the ground to put a bolt through?